Rivett 1020S - Video and electrical hum question - Page 4
Close
Login to Your Account
Page 4 of 4 FirstFirst ... 234
Results 61 to 77 of 77
  1. #61
    Join Date
    Jan 2017
    Country
    UNITED STATES
    State/Province
    Washington
    Posts
    240
    Post Thanks / Like
    Likes (Given)
    0
    Likes (Received)
    60

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by TravisR100 View Post
    You say they might have missed the wiring of the reeves motor. Missed what? From what I can tell that motor just uses two of the 3 legs. It works at any rate however the function of the slow/fast buttons is reversed.

    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    I am too late to the forum -- I'm not the best at checking it super often. Sorry. I'm glad you found the source of the hum.

    On the reeves control motor --> If they got the power legs got hooked up backwards when the voltage was changed over, then the motor could run in reverse. Not saying that's the cause, but it could be.

    As far as my comment on missing the wiring, I was meaning that someone might have overlooked the wiring to the control motor. When they convert the voltage, they may not have moved the wires for the control motor to the 'new' 220v legs of the motor or wired it up wrong but that's a moot point because the motor is working and it sounds like you checked this already. I missed that part, sorry.

  2. #62
    Join Date
    Jan 2017
    Country
    UNITED STATES
    State/Province
    Washington
    Posts
    240
    Post Thanks / Like
    Likes (Given)
    0
    Likes (Received)
    60

    Default

    And I'm stealing your idea for the light in the undercarriage - thanks for the photo!!

  3. #63
    Join Date
    Aug 2006
    Country
    UNITED STATES
    State/Province
    Texas
    Posts
    397
    Post Thanks / Like
    Likes (Given)
    7
    Likes (Received)
    86

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by medsar View Post
    I am too late to the forum -- I'm not the best at checking it super often. Sorry. I'm glad you found the source of the hum.

    On the reeves control motor --> If they got the power legs got hooked up backwards when the voltage was changed over, then the motor could run in reverse. Not saying that's the cause, but it could be.

    As far as my comment on missing the wiring, I was meaning that someone might have overlooked the wiring to the control motor. When they convert the voltage, they may not have moved the wires for the control motor to the 'new' 220v legs of the motor or wired it up wrong but that's a moot point because the motor is working and it sounds like you checked this already. I missed that part, sorry.
    Got it. Thank you for replying.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

  4. #64
    Join Date
    Aug 2006
    Country
    UNITED STATES
    State/Province
    Texas
    Posts
    397
    Post Thanks / Like
    Likes (Given)
    7
    Likes (Received)
    86

    Default

    I now know what “pretty expensive” means for a replacement brake. $1,900.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

  5. #65
    Join Date
    Aug 2006
    Country
    UNITED STATES
    State/Province
    Texas
    Posts
    397
    Post Thanks / Like
    Likes (Given)
    7
    Likes (Received)
    86

    Default

    Talked to an engineer at Dings who listened to the video. He thinks it’s just a voltage drop on startup. Will follow up when I get my fluke meter back.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

  6. #66
    Join Date
    Aug 2006
    Country
    UNITED STATES
    State/Province
    Texas
    Posts
    397
    Post Thanks / Like
    Likes (Given)
    7
    Likes (Received)
    86

    Default

    Do you happen to recall the size of the motor shaft where the brake connects?

  7. #67
    Join Date
    Sep 2011
    Country
    UNITED STATES
    State/Province
    Virginia
    Posts
    27,207
    Post Thanks / Like
    Likes (Given)
    7561
    Likes (Received)
    8484

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by TravisR100 View Post
    Do you happen to recall the size of the motor shaft where the brake connects?
    Measure it. Can't repair or replace it without removal in any case.

  8. #68
    Join Date
    Mar 2013
    Location
    Oklahoma, USA
    Posts
    19
    Post Thanks / Like
    Likes (Given)
    0
    Likes (Received)
    6

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by rustytool View Post
    Is that on original Rivett turret ?
    Or something adapted?
    Nicest 1020S I've ever seen. And a late model S with the exposed headstock bolts so you don't have to remove the gearbox to get the headstock off.
    I believe the machine was originally sold with the turret. There is a little triangle badge on the front panel of the machine that says Nuetzel Machinery Company, St. Louis. At some point this company relocated to Kansas City. When I investigated it a little further, I found they sold Rivett turret lathes and press brakes among other things. Apparently, there was some type of press brake accident. There was a lawsuit and the company closed a short while later. I don’t know how many of these machines they sold. I found mine near Kansas City.

  9. Likes rustytool liked this post
  10. #69
    Join Date
    Mar 2013
    Location
    Oklahoma, USA
    Posts
    19
    Post Thanks / Like
    Likes (Given)
    0
    Likes (Received)
    6

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by TravisR100 View Post
    Do you happen to recall the size of the motor shaft where the brake connects?
    Sorry, I don't recall the size. Seems like it was around an inch - best guess.

  11. #70
    Join Date
    Dec 2003
    Location
    Calgary, Alberta, Canada
    Posts
    1,419
    Post Thanks / Like
    Likes (Given)
    8
    Likes (Received)
    97

    Default

    Keith Rucker on you tube just bought a 10-20s, it has way, way more bed wear than yours.

  12. #71
    Join Date
    Aug 2006
    Country
    UNITED STATES
    State/Province
    Texas
    Posts
    397
    Post Thanks / Like
    Likes (Given)
    7
    Likes (Received)
    86

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by quasi View Post
    Keith Rucker on you tube just bought a 10-20s, it has way, way more bed wear than yours.
    Yep, I saw that when he posted it.


    Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

  13. #72
    Join Date
    Aug 2006
    Country
    UNITED STATES
    State/Province
    Texas
    Posts
    397
    Post Thanks / Like
    Likes (Given)
    7
    Likes (Received)
    86

    Default

    For anyone wanting to see the brake actuating...

    YouTube



    Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

  14. #73
    Join Date
    Sep 2011
    Country
    UNITED STATES
    State/Province
    Virginia
    Posts
    27,207
    Post Thanks / Like
    Likes (Given)
    7561
    Likes (Received)
    8484

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by TravisR100 View Post
    For anyone wanting to see the brake actuating...

    YouTube
    OUCH!

    I'd shed that sumbich in a New York Minute ... on general principles!

    My HBX-360 has a foot-treadle, linkage, external band brake. Looks like a Vee-belt pulley and a cut-off section of belt, one end anchored, the other wrapped and tightened. Or not. All mechanical.

    Newer HBX, electro-hydraulic, and disk type.

    Airhart & Sputniks sell a ton of the basic goods, mechanical, air, hydraulic, electric. ATV, RV, agro, groundskeeping market, mainly, for quite reasonable prices. Or buy the caliper and fab a rotor?

    At the very least? I'd want to operate off DC to get shed of that 60 Hz growl. Auto-air-con compressor clutch, the example of how much less noise that can produce. So long as .. the DC is filtered, anyway.

  15. #74
    Join Date
    Aug 2006
    Country
    UNITED STATES
    State/Province
    Texas
    Posts
    397
    Post Thanks / Like
    Likes (Given)
    7
    Likes (Received)
    86

    Default

    Well, it’s been a while and I thought I’d give an update on this thread since I made a step forward, but not really.

    I knew the noise was coming from the brake. I started looking on eBay and found that someone had the exact model Dings brake that I needed. It was an R71015, 3 phase. It was still more than I was willing to pay at $400. I watched it sit there for about 4 weeks and finally offered $150 for it. Instantly accepted. Think I offered too much. Anyhow, it showed up yesterday.

    I opened it up this evening and was surprised to see that it is obviously new old stock. Brand spanking new. Here are some pics.



    A few things I noted. The rotating friction disk on the new one is much thicker. Obviously the old one was worn. The torque springs on the new one are adjusted for more torque. Someone had apparently reduced the torque on the old one. The old one was missing the shafts for the manual brake release.

    Once I got the old brake off I started the lathe with no brake. No noise! Positively figured out that the noise on startup was coming from the brake, not the lathe motor.

    Wrestled the new brake into place, mounted everything, wired it up, crossed my fingers it would work. It works, but it makes the same exact noise on startup. . At this point I’m thinking it has to be something electrical but just not sure what.

    On the positive side, the lathe now has a brand new brake. And it stops much quicker than the old one did.


    Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

  16. Likes rustytool, Cal Haines liked this post
  17. #75
    Join Date
    Aug 2006
    Country
    UNITED STATES
    State/Province
    Texas
    Posts
    397
    Post Thanks / Like
    Likes (Given)
    7
    Likes (Received)
    86

    Default Rivett 1020S - Video and electrical hum question

    I’ve done some more checking on the electrical. I measured the voltage coming into the machine and also going out to the motor/brake.

    Coming into the machine...

    L1 to L2
    247 machine off
    235 running
    157 on startup for less than a second

    L1 to L3
    247 machine off
    234 running
    161 on startup

    L2 to L3
    243 machine off
    241 running
    223 on startup


    L1 is the manufactured leg.


    Leads going to the motor while running are the same as the running numbers above.

    I took my first cuts with it. I’m also noticing that in open belt the motor seems to bog down with a .040” cut.




    Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

  18. #76
    Join Date
    Aug 2006
    Country
    UNITED STATES
    State/Province
    Texas
    Posts
    397
    Post Thanks / Like
    Likes (Given)
    7
    Likes (Received)
    86

    Default

    I had started another thread about what seemed to be an issue with the motor bogging down. Just an FYI, this turned out not to be a problem with the motor at all. The varidrive belt was slipping because it had oil on it. What definitely sounded to be the motor bogging down was just the sound of the entire drive train slowing down.

  19. #77
    Join Date
    Nov 2004
    Location
    Webster Groves, MO
    Posts
    7,250
    Post Thanks / Like
    Likes (Given)
    1821
    Likes (Received)
    3296

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by thermite View Post
    Bed won't show much wear on any of the long-carriage "Grand-Old" Toolroom / Tool & Gage lathes.
    It accumulates on the underside of the softer CI carriage.

    To avoid being obligated to sacrificing TWO goats for your great good fortune..


    ... see what moves if you lighten-up on the carriage hold-downs (ball-bearing ones on my 10EE's), then check by alternating about 100 lbs of sandbag to each corner or "wing" in turn. There's usually some "rocking horse" movement. Even so.. it may not be enough to bother your work.

    ...if not.... about that sacrificial goat?

    Step-by-Step Guide to the Perfect Argentine Asado


    Where do you find it? Not in Mexico. The only time I saw cabrito asada on a menu was in Neuvo Larado and it wasn't lunch time. I looked for it from Brownsville to Panahachel, Guatemala and never found it again.

    Bill


Tags for this Thread

Bookmarks

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •