Round-dial 10EE end-gear lubrication
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    Default Round-dial 10EE end-gear lubrication

    I searched the Monarch 10EE lubrication manual and the user's manual, and here too, but I don't find any information about lubrication of the back gears. It is hard to believe the gear teeth run dry. Are you suppose to drip on a bit of the same oil as used in the transmission?
    Last edited by Cal Haines; 10-21-2019 at 08:28 PM. Reason: fix title

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    Did you see the sightglass? Fill to the middle of the sightglass with ISO 68 AW oil. ISO 46 would be ok.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

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    I use KEL black oil on open gears because the local hardware store has it.
    You can get open gear lube at NAPA also.Kel 57300 11 1/4 Ounce Black Oil Grease (047024573004) [2]

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    Focus, do you mean the back gears or end gears? I was talking about the back gear reducer hooked to the main motor.

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    Quote Originally Posted by focusrsh View Post
    I searched the Monarch 10EE lubrication manual and the user's manual, and here too, but I don't find any information about lubrication of the back gears. It is hard to believe the gear teeth run dry. Are you suppose to drip on a bit of the same oil as used in the transmission?
    There are no "back" gears on a 10EE.

    As-in "in back of" the spindle, output, or load end of the powertrain. See "cone head" lathes, where most such animals sleep for long periods of time, then noisily cropurate their dentition with great passion under only partial cover, if not in plain view. Also "geared head" lathes, out of sight, some noisier than others.

    What a 10EE has instead is a somewhat more genteel and stealthy enclosed reduction gearbox at the "front" of the drivetrain - right on the motor, input end of the powertrain. Out of sight, if not also less noisy.

    The Wizards of Sidney cheated. As usual.

    They made use of the countervailing hysteresis of a PAIR of long resilient belts AFTER the gears do their noisy-dirty to smooth-out the gear cogging so as to be able to deliver uber-smooth surfaces, less risk of "watermark" from gears.

    ANNND.. they kept it smooth even with straight-cut spur gears where balanced helicals (AKA "herringbone" gears) would have been far more expensive and needed more space.

    I did say "Wizards cheated"?




    Ergo, you must be addressing the gears under the upper rear cover that are involved in traverse of the carriage.

    They carry relatively light loads, are not overly picky as to lubrication.

    Good idea to keep chips, swarf, rocks, dog-hair, belly-button lint, clothing, nesting rodents, and any body parts you have grown overly fond of TF out of them. Later 10EE even hid their ones.

    Mine get a spritz of Wurth HHS-K or HHS-2000 "every now and then", same as I use under the carriage, under the motorcars, and on ignorant door hinges.

    But NOT under the TS. Too slippery. Makes it hard to lock down.


    YMMV

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    Quote Originally Posted by rklopp View Post
    Focus, do you mean the back gears or end gears? I was talking about the back gear reducer hooked to the main motor.
    Good question/good point since we know from focusrsh's other post this is a round dial machine so the end gears are open.

    FWIW the manual that came with my 1977 10EE indicates ISO 46 for the "speed reducing unit" (Monarch's "official" name for the 10EE's analogue of a backgear).

    David

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    I use open gear lube on mine. In a pinch I would use chain lube. A single tin of open gear spray lube would probably last the lathe (or the operator) a lifetime.

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    I'm talking about these exposed gears, not the speed reducer.

    img_6106.jpg

    OK, I'll find some of the KEL open gear lube as recommended by "rustytool".

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    Cal pointed out that those gears are called end gears, helps folks give more relevant answers.

    All gear hobbers have multiple open gear sets, not to mention all South Bend lathes, that are running much longer and at much higher loads and RPM than the Monarch low speed threading gears, and 60-70 years later those machines are still running strong.

    Probably two drops of oil on one of the gears will work its way around all the gear teeth and provide protection for many, many thread cutting operations.

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    Quote Originally Posted by focusrsh View Post
    I'm talking about these exposed gears, not the speed reducer.

    img_6106.jpg

    OK, I'll find some of the KEL open gear lube as recommended by "rustytool".
    Kellogs will do yah, but its black and sorta tarry.

    I like the colorless & cleaner Wurth product.

    Both spray-in on a low-viscosity carrier that evaporates to leave a FAR higher-viscosity residue.


    But.... both also show shipping restrictions and/or extra fees - one of the reasons I take a larger mixed order, various chemical witchcraft, but only around once every year or so.

    So it might depend on what you can find on a local brick & mortar shelf with the least hassle. Probably the Kellogs or a workalike competitor - trailering, chain-driveish 2-wheelers & such.

    No fear. Most anything will work - but please not WD-40 (dead lousy as a lube), lard, nor butter (they attract rodents and go rancid).



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