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  1. #41
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    Quote Originally Posted by rabler View Post
    Is it worth trying to revarnish anything?
    Motor shops very rarely do NOT.

    So yes, if only as (relatively) cheap assurance of one less thing likely to go wrong.

    But even with several motors under re-work, I can't see building my own chamber as Old(er) Bill had done.

    So long as no rewind is needed, I can see taking my ones to a motor shop, already cleaned up nice and purdy, and buying only their vacuum re-varnish & bake service.

    Not all that cheap, but still.. the material isn't cheap, either, and it isn't as if I expect to ever have to do any given DC motor TWICE, given my ones are older than I am.

    Gearbox benefits from all-new bearings. The dog clutch teeth may benefit fom TiG and reshape.

    That has all been covered. More than once. "Right here, on PM"

  2. #42
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    Well shit. This DC motor is going to take a bit of work to get it reliable. First, the large reduction gear from that gearbox. Obviously that gear is not far from complete failure.





    Second, the wiring inside the motor is in rough shape. If you look closely at the lead with the eyelet, the insulation is cracked from heat, and at the tie the underlying copper is exposed. That copper is pretty badly tarnished. Someone had been in there with electrical tape trying to patch up some of that. Since these are the brush leads, I figured they'd be easy enough to replace. They should just run straight out as the armature leads, A1 and A2.
    Not so, those leads are wired with the two smaller field poles in series, then the brushes. F1 and F2 go to the larger laminated poles, as do S1 and S2, as well as leads labeled 2 and 3, which are interconnected in the peckerhead. Total of 4 leads to each larger pole. Haven't completely mapped out how everything interconnects yet.











    This is enough of a mess that I'm going to have to step back for a while and decide if I want to keep pursuing this route. Nothing insurmountable, just more than I was hoping to have to deal with as far as the motor and gearbox. I've already turned the commutator and replaced most of the bearings

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  4. #43
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    You sure seem to break a lot of stuff lately.

    Hey, if it was easy, it wouldn't need you to fix it.

    Not sure on the wiring, I'd have to lay an eyeball on it. But the gear, you could have a ring gear made. Turn the teeth down on current gear. Then press ring gear on.

    What's the mating gear look like ?

  5. #44
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    You can heat shrink the wiring. That’s probably what I would do after cleaning it up. To clarify the good heat shrink.

  6. #45
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    Quote Originally Posted by texasgunsmith View Post
    You sure seem to break a lot of stuff lately.
    Obviously I need to buy more tools to have the things to fix them, right?


    Hey, if it was easy, it wouldn't need you to fix it.

    Not sure on the wiring, I'd have to lay an eyeball on it. But the gear, you could have a ring gear made. Turn the teeth down on current gear. Then press ring gear on.

    What's the mating gear look like ?
    Mating gear is in good shape. This ones not very hard.

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  8. #46
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    Quote Originally Posted by TBJK View Post
    You can heat shrink the wiring. That’s probably what I would do after cleaning it up. To clarify the good heat shrink.
    Given the corrosion in the wiring, I'm thinking I'll cut out that section, solder splice in a new wire, and heat-shrink over the splice.

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  10. #47
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    I think I would first see what a local shop would charge to redo those leads and maybe re-varnish the coils while they're in there. Then you'll basically have a new motor.

    Cal

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  12. #48
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    I'm going to keep my eye out for a spare 5HP Kinamatic DC motor for these. I'm going to fix this one up eventually, but at this point having a spare seems prudent.


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