Camlock spindle nose

kvom01 · Aug 23, 2009

I would like to be able to take a chuck off my 10ee and mount it on a rotab without removing the work that's in the chuck. So I would need a d1-3 camlock nose that I can mount on the rotab.

Wondering how the d1-3 nose is made for the 10EE. I can't really tell looking at mine. Is it separate from the spindle or integral? If separate, I might be able to get one from a machine that's being parted out.

Thoughts?

I know I can get the D1-3 cams from McMaster but I would prefer not to have to fabricate the rest.

This would be a "nice to have" feature, so the cost would need to be reasonable.

johnoder · Aug 23, 2009

Its definitely part of the spindle. If you would care to have drawing scans on all the D1-3" details, PM me your working email address.

John Oder

Mebfab · Aug 23, 2009

All one piece.

rimcanyon · Aug 25, 2009

I have the same project in mind. I have a couple of spindles from mfg. WiaD lathes (without the splines for the reverse gears). I plan to make a mount by cutting off the spindle nose, just aft of the front bearing mount, then add an indexing plate under the locknut or that threads onto the spindle, haven't decided. The second spindle is available, but it is missing the camlocks (they can be purchased from McMaster I believe).
-Dave

kvom01 · Aug 26, 2009

Dave, I would be interested in the other spindle nose if not too expensive.

On a side note, I just received a 10" D1-3 chuck from a seller on PM. The chuck was missing the pins, so I moved them from a backplate that I had. Before removing the pins from the backplate, which clamps firmly in my spindle, I measured the distance from the top of the pins to the mating surface as 1.2". Installed on the chuck, I cannot get the pins to the same height, as one turn gives either a higher or lower value. Mounted on the lathe, one of the pins clamps rather loosely.

Would it be preferable to lower or raise the pins to get a tighter fit, and is it necessary to have all the pins the same height? I know I can go by trial and error, but since the chuck is heavy to take on and off, I'm hoping to get some good advice upfront.

sneebot · Aug 26, 2009

It's adjust-tru so I can easily center it on the 4th axis of the CNC mill. Still need to add some keys on the bottom...

rklopp · Aug 26, 2009

kvom01
It sounds like either the pins or cams or worn. With new cams and pins, you can always adjust the pins to get the cams to lock in the 90-180-degree allowable range. MSC sells cams for about $45 each, and the pins, too, but I don't know the price. It's well worth the peace of mind to have your chucks mounted correctly. I bought new cams for both my Chipmaster and 10EE and now all my tooling locks correctly, on both lathes. Previously, I couldn't swap tooling between lathes without having to mess with the pin adjustments. :eek:

RKlopp

rimcanyon · Aug 26, 2009

kvom01, I would like to get $50 for the bare spindle, or $125 including a good set of spindle bearings and all the hardware.

-Dave

kvom01 · Aug 27, 2009

rimcanyon said:
kvom01, I would like to get $50 for the bare spindle, or $125 including a good set of spindle bearings and all the hardware.

-Dave

The whole spindle would be heavy for shipping. Could you cut it off behind the nose as you are doing on the other?

rimcanyon · Aug 27, 2009

Kvom, please PM me or email me, we can discuss.

-Dave

deere_x475guy · Aug 27, 2009

Kvom, I just sent you a PM on MM about my plans and the receiver I built. For the rest of you that might be interested here is a link to what I have done.

http://madmodder.net/index.php?topic=1350.15

Mcgyver · Aug 27, 2009

making them is doable, I made one for the RT and one for the indexing head

peterh5322 · Aug 28, 2012

deere_x475guy said:
Kvom, I just sent you a PM on MM about my plans and the receiver I built. For the rest of you that might be interested here is a link to what I have done.

rotary table D1-4 reciever

Excellent work.

That collet chuck is available several places. I believe mine came from CDCO.

I noticed that you made the collet chuck "set-true" using an adapter to D1-3" which projects INTO the back of the chuck.

I generally do the same on scroll chucks.

spaeth · Sep 9, 2016

Sneebot,
So is that guy made from scratch or an adapted spindle from
a different machine? Glad to see some posts about using cam
locks on different machines. I'm pondering the idea of making
an adapter plate to go from Haas TL-1 A2-5 spindle to D1-3
camlock. Not for permanent use but to have several chuck and
collet closer options. Anyone done that?
spaeth

Monarchist · Sep 9, 2016

spaeth said:
Sneebot,
So is that guy made from scratch or an adapted spindle from
a different machine? Glad to see some posts about using cam
locks on different machines. I'm pondering the idea of making
an adapter plate to go from Haas TL-1 A2-5 spindle to D1-3
camlock. Not for permanent use but to have several chuck and
collet closer options. Anyone done that?
spaeth

Except for one 'find' so rare as to justify it [1], I've found it more pragmatic to just go and get more nose-art that fits from the get-go.

DIY has costs, too. So also having to babysit Unicorns.

Bill

[1[ Burnerd MultiSize closer, full set of collets in pristine condition, D1-4 to be adapted to D1-3.

Mud · Sep 9, 2016

kvom01 said:
Dave, I would be interested in the other spindle nose if not too expensive.

On a side note, I just received a 10" D1-3 chuck from a seller on PM. The chuck was missing the pins, so I moved them from a backplate that I had. Before removing the pins from the backplate, which clamps firmly in my spindle, I measured the distance from the top of the pins to the mating surface as 1.2". Installed on the chuck, I cannot get the pins to the same height, as one turn gives either a higher or lower value. Mounted on the lathe, one of the pins clamps rather loosely.

Would it be preferable to lower or raise the pins to get a tighter fit, and is it necessary to have all the pins the same height? I know I can go by trial and error, but since the chuck is heavy to take on and off, I'm hoping to get some good advice upfront.

Have you tried swapping the pins betwen holes? Maybe that's too obvious, but you didn't mention it. if the threads on the pins or holes are clocked slightly differently, it will change the height at a certain position. Worked for me.

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