Shop Tips and Project Photos

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Photo of "rolling in" a thin ring- photos are fun!

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Say, anyone find a better way to "center" a center punch mark, in a 4jaw or face plate, then this ancient Brown & Sharpe centering and indicating tool?

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Saw arbors for the no longer made Rockwell Delta 12-14 table saw, all left hand threads,


A tip for the day, the arbor on the left is the hard to find 1" dado! I have been ask many times to make more of them! They cost almost $150 in 1968.

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There you go nice and calm! close your eyes and imagine the machine purring along.....

A note about photos, many years ago, I posted photos strategically of the commercial work I was doing at the time, it caused my nearest competition to try to compete by overspending on equipment, then they closed. Something to think about.

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Adjustable for run-out 5c collet chuck, with compensating draw bar using a Timken bearing for thrust, all made on an old MG ee.

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Put shop tips and projects photos here.

Spindle grinder adapter [from closed thread]

donie said:

Click to expand...

This is an interesting setup, but why didn't you put the driven pulley on the other end of the spindle? It would significantly lessen the collet and wheel distance from the bearings, lowering TIR and increasing stiffness. Repurposed spindle, or did you make it? Bearing type?

For that matter, was the circular adapter at the base of the spindle block necessary? Could you have not mounted directly to the cross slide? And do you tighten the CS gib when grinding?

BTW, that's a nice looking machine. I'd have covered it with something to protect against the grinding grit. Shop towels, or something fancier...

[Heh, now that's what I call an active moderator...]

(And sorry for the multiple elipses, I try to keep them to one per post, but this deserved two.)

Sort of hard to explain but, the driving pulley near the tip is actually standard practice on some internal grinding attachments, it works quite well.
Now, the spindle in the photo also has a driving pulley on the the other end.
This was made to fit a L&S 1610 Powerturn lathe, it will sit centered on the compound. That is a bigger machine with 12" chucks. So, I flip the motor around to drive the rear spindle pulley, remove the stone and small pulley, install a larger stone-around 2" to grind the larger jaws in relation to the larger hole in the 12" chucks.

To use the grinder on the EE, I have to remove the compound and use an adapter, the ring under the grinder is only to raise up the grinder for the photo.
Of course the machine is protected when grinding chuck jaws.

The spindle has a Barden sealed double angular contact bearing at the nose, and a spherical bearing at the rear drive end.
The spindle is fairly long around 12", if I drive it from the rear using the small stone at around 15000rpm, a vibration occurs, but, driving the spindle near the stone, no vibration.
Somewhere I have a photo of the grinder in pieces, its heavy, I put it together on the machine, real quick.

Cant seem to find the Deplorable Grinder system shots, but I have a few other shots.

This is the spindle for grinding the jaw faces using a dish wheel, dont use cup wheels for grinding jaw faces!



I took this photo of a set up on a cutter grinder for a hard to do part. It shows the motor flipped around for driving spindles from the rear.



This foto shows the body of the grinder mounted on a cutter grinder with a Dotco long neck air grinder in place of a belt driven spindle, the body pieces are of 2" plate steel.


The question on adjusting the gibs tight for grinding, only if the cross slide is in bad shape and needs scraping, a situation I find not acceptable.

Now, that last photo, not set up correctly, but what is the possibility? never mind on that!

Donnie thanks for sharing photos of your set ups.
I always enjoy and learn from them.

Hal

Yes, thanks for the explanation of the setup.

I'd guess that the reason you're getting vibration when driving from the rear spherical bearing pulley is that they're intrinsically not a "precision" bearing, like the dual angular contacts you have at the nose. That means there's extra clearance, which will amplify any tension/imperfection errors as the drive motor/pulley/belt act on it.

When used on the front pulley, the better stiffness of the AC bearings prevents extraneous loads from the drive system acting on the grinding spindle. So the spherical bearing is a curious choice by the manufacturer, even a good quality deep groove bearing would likely be better.

I noticed the loading on the grinding point, do you ever use a mister or coolant system? I'd guess you're not grinding so much material away to make the extra hassle worthwhile.

Thanks for all that!

The rear bearing is a Barden spherical sealed grade 9, I cant remember the clearance code on it, however, the front bearing is light pre load. I found with what I have worked with so far, larger spindles driven at the highest speeds, using small stones is not as good as a smaller spindle that runs cooler and more comfortable at that speed.
I do use mist often, along with a shop vac. but, if you have a bench grinder in the same room as your lathe, try this, dress your grinder wheel, turn off the lights and shine a narrow beam light across your shop. You will from then on, wipe down your machine before you move anything!

I know others will wonder why the chuck jaw grinding. When the machines are ordered from the factory, the spindle attachments order with the machine are numbered to the machine and fitted so as a test bar will run true at the jaws and a distance from the jaws. The break point is this, if you true a test bar at the jaws, you should be able to push it true, and it stays true 8" out from the jaws. If not, the work will be in a bind with loss of accuracy. Really bad to pull a chucked bar true using the tail center.
Chucks can take a beating, and the jaws need to be re ground in place from time to time, to get consistent results.

donie said:

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Saw arbors for the no longer made Rockwell Delta 12-14 table saw, all left hand threads,


A tip for the day, the arbor on the left is the hard to find 1" dado! I have been ask many times to make more of them! They cost almost $150 in 1968.

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Click to expand...

Very nice work. I was going to have to go down that road. Turns out the Asian clone of the Rockwell 12/14 has the same arbor. The arbor stubs and nuts are available from Grizzly.

Last I heard about these, Grizzly was out of the 1" dado arbor. Delta never did make a 5/8" arbor.
On a woodworking site, I was offered #125 for the 1" long arbor, but I am behind on other projects.

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donie said:

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Saw arbors for the no longer made Rockwell Delta 12-14 table saw, all left hand threads,


A tip for the day, the arbor on the left is the hard to find 1" dado! I have been ask many times to make more of them! They cost almost $150 in 1968.

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Click to expand...

Ha, years ago I made one of the exact same 1" dado arbors for my saw on the EE.

When I was making these arbors, I thought at the time, this is the ideal machine to use.

I haven't found a lathe that I can work faster....and there is always good results.

The woodworking thing expanded from just making shipping crates with a contractors saw. Around 5yrs ago when equipment was flooding CL for cheap I started buying machines.
Not knowing much about woodworking, I started buying machines that I recognized from hi school, so I ended up with a Delta 12-14 saw, green Powermatic planer, and others, now I have a hi school wood working shop in my basement! Well, much heavier equipment then I really need, but being used to metal working machines like the ee weighing a ton and a half. So, finding a 1200lb planer, I thought "no problem" that is going into the basement!
I have seen others pick up old woodworking machines, then go looking for metal working equipment because you need all kinds of things, some you cant buy.

I some time ago I looked at a custom African big game rifle that was in a distinctive wood case. When I was buying machines I bought any good hardwood also. I came across the wood that the old rifle case was made of, African Blood Wood. So, I made a replica case with some additions for a little rimfire rifle.



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