Spindle Drive Belt 10EE Round Dial
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  1. #1
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    Default Spindle Drive Belt 10EE Round Dial

    I've searched poked around and otherwise tried to find some details for a replacement spindle drive belt for my 1943 round dial. I would like to understand what folks have used for replacement options. I know I can order replacements from McMaster, but need to know the target length. For example the belt on my lathe right now seems to be too short and the tension pulley interferes on the upper cover.

    Any links, inputs, suggestions would be greatly appreciated.

    thanks
    Brian
    Last edited by rakort; 02-22-2021 at 12:12 AM. Reason: typo

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    I've taken some measurements on my setup.

    The upper/spindle sheave is 7.24" dia
    The lower drive sheave is 6.83" dia
    the tensioner sheave is 3.00" dia

    I measured between 87.75" to 88.25" in length depending on the tensioner position.

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    You might get more response if you included more information. Flat belt or V-belt? Idler pulley on left or right?

    This has also been covered quite well in older posts. Take a look at some of PeterH's posts for example. I think he even gives the part number. My 1940 lathe has a flat belt, so I always order it custom.

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    Quote Originally Posted by rimcanyon View Post
    You might get more response if you included more information. Flat belt or V-belt? Idler pulley on left or right?

    This has also been covered quite well in older posts. Take a look at some of PeterH's posts for example. I think he even gives the part number. My 1940 lathe has a flat belt, so I always order it custom.
    Good call on the flat vs v-belt. I jumped the gun assuming we knew we were talking about a flat belt here!

    20210221_181913.jpg

    I knew this was talked about excessively here already but couldn't dig up the threads which frustrated me after using the native search tool and things like google.

    I'll see if I can stir up some info on PeterH's posts.

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    Quote Originally Posted by rakort View Post
    For example the belt on my lathe right now seems to be too short and the tension pulley interferes on the upper cover.
    New belts - from Monarch - who know by serial number what was "correct" - can exhibit the same issue, flat OR Vee. My first set of "A" section twin Vee for the 1942 Round Dial surely did.

    If you have not ALREADY found this out from old posts, "right here, on PM", that generally means the resilient mounts under the big motor plate have degraded into mush and lowered the plate, if not also TILTED it a skosh.

    Replace those pads and the "correct" belt may not be so short, after all.

    Might not even be classed as a mortal sin to make new pads a tad thicker that OEM, but that's your call.

    FWIW-not-much? The motor "feet" were individually hand shimmed. Mix up the shim stack, the motor goes back in, tilted. And you have to get levels & c. and do it over from scratch. Old Skewl skill not unique to a 10EE. Millrights had to do this often enough, before even we had electricity.

    But it is still a pain in the anatomy, especially working down inside a small Iron CAVE! "DAMHIKT".

    NB: The belts will last longer if you set it right. AFTER seeing to the motor plate's "rubbers". Neoprene, I suspect?

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    MG round dials with flat belts aren't that common, so I wouldn't go searching for posts on the topic. Here is what I did when I needed a new belt: measured the old one. Went down to the locally owned bearing house. There were a couple of options: have a flat belt custom-made with a splice. Buy a pre-made flat belt in a size available. I ordered a pre-made belt slightly longer (½"), since the other option was ½" shorter. Those belts have zero elasticity, i.e. don't get a shorter one expecting it will stretch to fit. The length I ordered won't help you a bit, my lathe has a Sundstrand drive.

    Quote Originally Posted by rakort View Post
    Good call on the flat vs v-belt. I jumped the gun assuming we knew we were talking about a flat belt here!

    20210221_181913.jpg

    I knew this was talked about excessively here already but couldn't dig up the threads which frustrated me after using the native search tool and things like google.

    I'll see if I can stir up some info on PeterH's posts.

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    Seen it done. Just measure center to center on the pulleys. get pulley dia's and use an online calculator to find belt length. Go to auto store and get a serpentine belt that length and run it flat side to pulley. It works, works well and is cheap.

    As far as shimming the motor, its not brain surgery. Its simply the inward - outward tilt of the pulley. So you know the shims left to right will be equal. Get a long straight edge and run it across the upper and lower pulley. You'll see which way the motor needs to be tilted. My shims were all the same thickness so I started with two on the rear pads and one under each front pad. Hit it the first time out. But how many combos can there be especially when you know which way you need to shim? Seems like a lot of guys make life way too complicated.

    Don


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