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Tailstock clamping handle

Jdub63

Aluminum
Joined
Jan 10, 2020
I finally started replacing my tailstock clamping handle with a new one, but I have a few questions.

1. Can someone post a picture of the handle in both the locked and unlocked position? Just want to ensure I have the right orientation.

2. Can anyone provide recommendations on how to clamp the handle in the mill? I need to face the part that mates with the back of the tailstock and drill for the rod.

3. Finally, does the handle have a set screw as well as a taper pin?

Here's a picture of the casting.
 

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I finally started replacing my tailstock clamping handle with a new one, but I have a few questions.

1. Can someone post a picture of the handle in both the locked and unlocked position? Just want to ensure I have the right orientation.

Mine has the ball level with the boss on the other end when clamped. This is adjustable within reason by changing the nuts under the clamping plate (IIRC)


2. Can anyone provide recommendations on how to clamp the handle in the mill? I need to face the part that mates with the back of the tailstock and drill for the rod.

The boss should be slightly thicker on the tail stock side. I'd mount that side up (of course) and shim under the handle so that the handle is clamped in a couple of places over the shims and that part of the handle is flat across the parting line - this will make sure that the handle travel is fair to the tail stock.

3. Finally, does the handle have a set screw as well as a taper pin?

Usually, but just to keep things in place for drilling the taper pin. Are you also making a new eccentric? If not you'll have to match the old taper pin hole.
 
Usually, but just to keep things in place for drilling the taper pin. Are you also making a new eccentric? If not you'll have to match the old taper pin hole.

It looks like I can flip the eccentric rod and drill a new hole in that end. I have to double check measurements, but that's the plan for now.
 
Thanks, that's what I needed. How thick is the "boss" and what size taper pin is used to attach it to the shaft.


The boss is .62 thick. The side facing the headstock is milled.

The pin is .21 on the wide end and .17 on the narrow end and 1.76 long. The wide end facing inward.
I had to measure the pin I dont have the number.


Pin is drilled slightly off center.
Intentional ?? Really doesn't matter.
]iui.jpg

Edit
There may be a thrust washer on the milled side. I will have to look at my parts later. You may want too look at a parts diagram.
I will let you know.
 
There is no thrust washer between the handle and the tailstock casting in the parts diagram.
There isn't one in my tailstock parts either. The handle goes right against the casting.

Make sure the crank rod is positioned right and any side play is removed before drilling your tapered pin on the handle.
You know what to do.

It appears that the clamp crank is reversible end to end to give you a fresh end to drill. Equal length rod ends.
 
jdub63
I missed one detail about the handleer45.jpg There is a 1/4" set screw in the boss opposing the tapered pin.
 
what is the thought / function of this set screw? Mine and many (all?) others have the same. I've struggled understanding the need / benefit of that set screw.

The shaft size for the lever is only about 5/8 so that limits the size they can drill for the tapered pin. The pin by itself may not be considered of sufficient size for the amount of leverage / torque exerted.
Just guessing. --??
I already questioned why they did that also ,too myself when I posted the other day.

I would also drill a dimple in the shaft where the set setscrew seats.

There is quite a bit of leverage with the handle. They know some dingbat will smack it with the same hammer they use on the tailstock spindle lock.
no hammer needed.
 
what is the thought / function of this set screw? Mine and many (all?) others have the same. I've struggled understanding the need / benefit of that set screw.

I've always figured that the setscrew is used to hold things in place when they're setting up the timing of the lever before drilling for the taper pin.
 
I've always figured that the setscrew is used to hold things in place when they're setting up the timing of the lever before drilling for the taper pin.

That sounds more feasible . It would be hard to juggle holding everything in position during initial setup. The tailstock clamping mechanism is a impressive design using leverage and an eccentric. Easy lock and no wrench needed;
 
SOMEBODY has to love a 10EE's tailstock!

:D

I've never had an issue with a 10EE tailstock that wasn't easy to solve. That being said, I have seen a lot of them that were not well taken-care-of and require a lot of work to set right. So that puts me in the camp of being a fan of the tailstock, but being quite negative about the quality of maintenance these machines received.
 
I'd be less critical were it not that Monarch got so many OTHER bits of a 10EE so very "right".

TS just isn't as well done "in keeping with..." the otherwise high standard, overall.

Not until at least the late-late years of upgrade to larger barrel, 3 MT, and associated improved ability to resist drilling torque as well as simply hold tolerance against wear longer in general.

That could all have been there "day Zero", given their immense wealth of large(r) lathe experience.

Bill, you're overlooking a few things <;) The original 1939 10EE was designed as a precision tool room lathe with a small work envelope. It had a 3 HP hydraulic drive without a 2-speed gearbox, and much lower torque than the DC drive machines.

After 80 years, my 1940 lathe got a long-deserved overhaul this year. Included in that was a new old stock tailstock barrel (and wiper) to replace the original. It fit with a couple tenths clearance - not easy to fit it in, but a perfect fit. About 25 years ago when I first got the machine, I replaced two of the "shoes", monarch's name for the hardened steel pads that transfer the force when the tailstock lever is clamped down. About 15 years ago I put a brass .005" shim in between the top casting and the base casting of the tailstock. Those are the only parts that have ever been replaced on this tailstock and it still works perfectly. I consider that normal maintenance, but it is not the kind of maintenance that most 10EEs got back in the day. It still has the hydraulic drive, so I have no need for a MT3 tailstock.
 








 
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