Took home a '67 Model 613 - Page 2
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  1. #21
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    Cal,
    Thanks for the thought, but I do not have a 4 jaw for the CK, smaller one on another lathe but wouldn't hold this. It is clamped on the outside diameter with the three jaw so it should bore fairly true. Since that's a narrow surface I'll need to take shallow cuts. I'll check it for true on both the OD and the face before boring it.

  2. #22
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    Quote Originally Posted by rabler View Post
    Cal,
    Thanks for the thought, but I do not have a 4 jaw for the CK, smaller one on another lathe but wouldn't hold this. It is clamped on the outside diameter with the three jaw so it should bore fairly true. Since that's a narrow surface I'll need to take shallow cuts. I'll check it for true on both the OD and the face before boring it.
    Could the smaller 4 jaw be used to clamp ID of sheave, then indicate OD, then bore.

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    Quote Originally Posted by dalmatiangirl61 View Post
    Could the smaller 4 jaw be used to clamp ID of sheave, then indicate OD, then bore.
    I can shim the sheave in the three jaw if necessary to center. The 4-jaw is for a lathe with no taper attachment and too small to mount the sheave. Also, the sheave has no ID on the back side. I could turn it facing the headstock but then I’d need to dismount it to check the fit on the taper bushing.

    Obviously I need a 4-jaw for the CK, but sometimes you have to make do.

  4. #24
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    Quote Originally Posted by rabler View Post
    Obviously I need a 4-jaw for the CK, but sometimes you have to make do.
    Open mouth, insert foot.
    I ended up getting a used D1-6 4-jaw. That sheave is heavy enough that holding it one handed while trying to insert shims and tighten was too much of a juggling act. Got it turned with a good fit for the taper bushing. Then I put it on the mill to drill and tap the three holes to hold the bushing into the sheave. And the mill refused to run. VFD on it is showing a fault light.

    Larger boring bar, then the 4-jaw, now a new VFD. Sometimes simple projects snowball. I also picked up the 50 ft of 2-2-2 service entrance wire to run to the RPC, but the box store didn't have the 100A breaker. Time to go back to working on the 10EE while waiting for online orders to come in.

  5. #25
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    Slowly making progress on getting this machine running. The RPC is set up with the original 20HP from the lathe. New 10HP motor is in the lathe, sheave properly aligned, wired into the lathe's electrical panel. All three motors re-wired for 220V (main motor, fast traverse motor, hydraulic/lubrication pump), and tested working off the RPC. Next functional step is checking that the hydraulic/lubrication pump is turning in the right direction. Until I do that I haven't put the belts on the main motor. Here's a picture of the RPC in progress, built using a WNY phase converter panel. Did have several of the smaller control wires in the panel pull out of the terminal ends, easy enough to crimp new terminals on.



    Added a shaft guard over the RPC idler. I wasted quite a bit of time replacing some of the flex conduit between the panel and motors, mostly time running around trying to find the right adapters locally before just ordering them out of McMaster. Other than than, I've spent some time cleaning and painting since that picture, but not a lot of functional progress. Last couple weeks the colder weather and snow have created some other time-consuming challenges.

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  7. #26
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    I've picked up a 20hp motor to use as an idler, but I'm a bit from running the rpc. I'd be curious what your idling amps are on each incoming single phase line when you give it a test run. I plan to use a pony motor to spin up to speed before hitting the go button. So I'm just curious what amps it pulls idling no load.

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    Quote Originally Posted by texasgunsmith View Post
    I've picked up a 20hp motor to use as an idler, but I'm a bit from running the rpc. I'd be curious what your idling amps are on each incoming single phase line when you give it a test run. I plan to use a pony motor to spin up to speed before hitting the go button. So I'm just curious what amps it pulls idling no load.
    I didn’t blow the 100amp breaker ...

    I’ve actually ordered a couple of cheap digital panel mount ammeter/voltmeter gauges from amazon for something like $15 each. https://www.amazon.com/LM-YN-Digital...526055&sr=8-31
    I plan to hook them up to the incoming single phase and the wild leg, with a cutout in in the front panel of the RPC. They should have arrived yesterday but nothing is moving in the current snow.

    I have a decent Fluke meter to get real numbers, just haven’t done that yet.

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    I know you asked about idling no load, I'll post a few more numbers too:
    Peak load on single phase, starting unloaded RPC: 205A
    RPC idling (no load), draw on single phase: 9.2A
    All three lathe motors running, no load, no belts on main motor, single phase load: 28A

    Main motor is 10HP. Traverse motor and lube/hydraulic motor are 1/3HP each.

    Data plate on RPC idler:


    Data plate on main motor:


    Data plate on rapid traverse motor:

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  11. #29
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    Quote Originally Posted by rabler View Post
    I know you asked about idling no load, I'll post a few more numbers too:
    Peak load on single phase, starting unloaded RPC: 205A
    RPC idling (no load), draw on single phase: 9.2A
    All three lathe motors running, no load, no belts on main motor, single phase load: 28A

    Main motor is 10HP. Traverse motor and lube/hydraulic motor are 1/3HP each.
    Thats real good. Its actually just slightly more than my 7.5hp rpc at idle. On that I idle at about 8.7amps per leg.

    Now that 7.5hp, plus the 20hp idler motors I have are both 1200rpm motors. I like that for noise reduction, plus quick start up speed.

    My 7.5hp RPC bumps up to about 15amps per leg on single phase lines when running a 2hp motor light to medium load.

    My Monarch 61 has a 10hp motor. And I have a #3 size mill with a 15hp motor that I think I will de-rate to a 10hp as well.

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    I should add that my single phase as supplied by the rural electric coop runs around 245 volts, so it is reasonable to assume that at 220V it would pull about 10% more current.
    At that voltage, it is pretty close to 3 amps per horse power in an ideal 746w/hp world. So 9 amps corresponds to using about 3HP to spin the 20HP idler.

    The 612 is spec'd with an 1800 RPM motor, but it's pretty damn quiet. The coil on the RPC contactor makes more noise with the panel cover off.

    The NOS 10HP main motor is hitting a vibration harmonic when spinning down. I'll need to look into whats going on there. No visual run out on the sheave. Need to put an indicator on it again, or in may need balancing.

    I also need to order a new heater for the traverse motor as the one in there is kicking out, which shuts down the entire lathe. It's the heater from running that motor on 440V so it's more surprising that it didn't kick out before even starting the motor.

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    Quote Originally Posted by texasgunsmith View Post
    My Monarch 61 has a 10hp motor. And I have a #3 size mill with a 15hp motor that I think I will de-rate to a 10hp as well.
    I'm keeping my eye out for a #3 K&T mill. A couple have sold off facebook marketplace before I got a chance to look at them. Others available at a higher price, but unless it's a really good deal I trying to hold off until I get the 612 and the 10EE running. I'm also planning on 20 x 32 addition to the shop, pouring concrete for that when the weather warms up enough. That'll give me enough room to have all the equipment in the same building instead of split across 2.

  14. #32
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    Slow progress bouncing between now 4 machines to work on. The CK is getting close to getting wrapped up for a while. The 612 is at least getting a coat of paint slapped on with a brush. I'm waiting for new overload relays (backordered) to come for the traverse motor and hydraulic pump.



    The orange ratchet strap is securing the electrical panel. It sits on a ledge, and gets bolted to a cover on the back of the headstock. I have the cover off for repainting, and until I get all of the wiring sorted out I don't want to reassemble everything as it helps to get to the wiring to have that panel somewhat loose.

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    Quote Originally Posted by rabler View Post
    I'm keeping my eye out for a #3 K&T mill.
    I've got a K&T 4K Universal that needs a new home. Loading included if you can haul 13,000#.

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    Quote Originally Posted by gbent View Post
    I've got a K&T 4K Universal that needs a new home. Loading included if you can haul 13,000#.
    I'd be very tempted, but I took home a 3K Vertical about 2 weeks ago. I'm working on building a new shop to hold all of the equipment.

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    Quote Originally Posted by rabler View Post
    I'm working on building a new shop to hold all of the equipment.
    Nice to hear from a man with his priorities in order.

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    Quote Originally Posted by rke[pler View Post
    Nice to hear from a man with his priorities in order.
    My wife is excited about a new shop too, as long as it includes a woodburning stove with an option for open-door fires. She actually likes splitting wood too. A lucky guy am I. 40x64x12 is the plan, with the woodworking equipment remaining in the current 32x32 shop, machining and metal fab going to the new place.

    Moving the 612 & the K&T #3k will probably require renting a boom forklift again.

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    When I built I put in a 30x60 shop and framed in the back half for a 'clean' machine shop with HVAC. That let me put in a lot of insulation and keep the machine shop hot/cool (really just constant) all year around. It's nice to be comfortable.

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  21. #38
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    Quote Originally Posted by rke[pler View Post
    When I built I put in a 30x60 shop and framed in the back half for a 'clean' machine shop with HVAC. That let me put in a lot of insulation and keep the machine shop hot/cool (really just constant) all year around. It's nice to be comfortable.
    Agreed! I'm extending our natural gas line to the new building, and putting in a gas heater. Probably fiber for internet/security cameras and may chuck some PVC pipe in the ground as conduit for future use. I'll eventually put in a ductless mini-split. Been thinking of dividing off two rooms, one for grinding and the other as a office/inspection/clean area. Not sure yet on that.

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    Work on the 612 continues slowly. I'm jumping between several projects, the 612, the 10EE, a K&T 3k vertical mill and some various farm/garden projects as the weather improves. I have the RPC installed, guard installed over the motor shaft, 3 phase breaker panel, two twist lock L15-30 outlets (one for the 612, one for the K&T vertical mill). This is a temporary home as once the new shop gets built the RPC, 612 lathe, and K&T vertical mill will move into that shop, along with the CK and 10EE.



    I have installed the new overload relays (heaters) for the rapid traverse motor and hydraulic/lube pump. Hydraulic pump doesn't seem to be pumping, I'm hoping that it is just a matter of the motor turning backwards, but while investigating that I realized that the 1" return hose is a few inches too short and pulls off the door mounted reservoir and pump assembly when the door is opened. I have a longer hose on order, waiting for that before proceeding.

    Interestingly both of these two motors (traverse and hydraulic pump) are activated through one contactor, with the heater for the hydraulic pump mounted on that contactor and the heater for the traverse motor mounted as a stand alone unit. I just replaced both heaters with stand alone units since the original 440V heaters were under-rated. Rather than trying to chase down the older Westinghouse units used in this I just put in current WEG heaters. The heaters for the main motor, traverse, and hydraulic pump are all wired in series, so if any one of them kicks out the whole lathe shuts down. I should have used black wire going into the heaters to be consistent, in this version Monarch used red wires for control circuits (switches and contactor coils) and black for power to motor.

    The contactor on the left is the combined unit for the traverse and hydraulics, the one on the right is for the coolant pump which is currently disconnected (wires at the bottom), and may not work.


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