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  1. #1
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    I am looking for a 10ee in very good condition. Does any one have any leads?

  2. #2
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    How much do you want to spend? A EE in what I
    would call" very good condition" would be
    at the low end $10,000. and at the high end
    about $20,000. Excellent would go up from that. You still interested? The're everywhere
    on the internet at all prices. I think I can
    speak for most of the EE owners on this board
    that we have ours because there was something
    (big) wrong with it,(electronics) or it was
    worn out. And you can pick up a EE pretty
    reasonable when its junk. But they are almost infinitely rebuildable and if you throw enough money and time at it, you can make you a darn nice lathe. Boys, don't ponce on me too much for this. Cheers

  3. #3
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    I think you nailed it re what ours cost. If I
    had 20k to spend it wouldn't be on a 10EE.Saw one one a dealers web site in Cleveland around $500 thats my price range lost the site though and Cleveland is a helluva long way from here. By the way any one know what happened to the tracer that was discussed here a while back? Talked to the guy but he was being very coy about the price so I gave up

    Bob

  4. #4
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    I am currently looking at two different machines. One is a 1986 and the other is a 1990. It is my understanding that they would both have the solid state DC drive. Would it be better to go with an older machine rebuild it and put in a new AC drive? I see Monarch makes a kit for this and at $12,000 it seems very expensive. Why can't you just put in a new AC motor with an off the shelf VFD?

  5. #5
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    Nick, go back and scan earlier posts on this board to answer your question. In a real small nutshell, you have to put in a 12hp
    AC motor and VFD to sorta get the same performance(low speed torque) as the 5hp
    original electronic drive system. And we haven't talked about the compensation pot.
    Forrest Addy, our distinguished moderator wrote a very detailed, definitive answer to this on this board and it would behoove you to find it. Cheers

  6. #6
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    I got lucky with mine (a '57 W.I.D)and as has been suggested it had major electrical malfunctions and a host of mechanical maladies too - took six months of TLC to bring it back to good shape. My plan "B" if
    the electronics couldn't be corrected was to convert the drive to hydrostatic. I've had enough exposure to small garden tractor type units that are sized about right ( HP and physically)to make a guess that such a unit could be grafted into the confines of a 10EE. I think the variable speed/reversal/power characteristics fit the bill. The prime mover could be a single or
    3-ph device ; only reservations are noise, and controls but these would seem solvable. Seem to recall the very early 10EEs were hydros. Any comments?

  7. #7
    fausto Guest

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    I purchased a 10EE for too much$$ out of love, it came without motor or drive so I ended up installing a 3 phase 5hp ac motor and vfd, I did it with an original 5:1 gear reducer on the spindle and used the original potentiometer for speed control, it runs just fine in my garage running on single phase 220.

  8. #8
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    Mar 2002
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    This sounds like exactly what I would like to do with mine. Can you give specifics? What brand of motor/ vfd? Any chance of seeing a sketch of a scematic of what you did? I assume you included the spindle interlock switch? Do you have enough power even on the low end? Do you still use the original forward/reverse swithch? Thanks.
    Jeff

  9. #9
    fausto Guest

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    Power has not ben a problem but I have no way of acurately gauging it! and running on single phase I am actually runing at 66%(100%[email protected])I am using the original back gear that was part of the original motor,I made a splined shaft and made the back gear a separate unit from the motor,coupled the motor and back gear together, both on a single plate, lowered the original motor plate as low as it would go and bolted the "new" rig on(it's tight in there), the motor was an old ('96)baldor with a rolled case that I hapened to have, the VFdrive can be any kind(in this case a baldor)I used the spindle interlock to brake the enable on the drive,the leed screw reverse on my setup works like this:
    with the screw selector says
    -newtral;with the lever up or down the spindle does not come on
    -right hand;lever up, spindle CCW
    lever down, spindle CW
    lever center, Stop
    -left hand;lever up, spindle CW
    lever down, spindle CCW
    lever center, Stop
    speed is controled by the original potentiometer ,high / low gear works like the stock setup,the gear change lock solenoid was missing,my self being too cheap to buy it,a light fixture chain now retracts a spring loaded lock.Power on/off is in the original place.
    the brand of the components I feel is not as important in this case as there dimensions, the top of my motor clears a spot on the casting by no more than 0.040", this is only because I put this rig together with parts that I had "laying arround" so this can be improved upon very esaly. Email me [email protected] put a clear subject on the email and I will send you pictures ok.
    I am not sure this is how it is suposed to be, but, this is how I set it up.Please feel free to advise me.

  10. #10
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    We have a nice early 80's machine (module drive) that has the english/metric gearbox for 15000.00. If you are interested call me at 937-492-4111. Scott

  11. #11
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    I found a very nice 1986 English/Metric machine that I purchased today. Can't wait to start turning with it.


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