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Wanted: field coils from large frame Reliance 3HP.

focusrsh

Aluminum
Joined
Jul 30, 2018
Anyone have a dead large frame reliance 3HP?
IMG_6277.jpg
I need are the four large field coils, not the frame, armature, etc.
Field Coils - 600.jpg
They are easy to remove. Two exterior bolts hold each one to the frame.
You can tell if the coil is OK by measuring the resistance, which should be 20.5 Ohms.

Make BIG BUCKS! :)

Private message me.
 
I've already seen the Ebay seller and contacted him. He won't ship. Pick-up only, and it is a 500 mile drive each way from here.

"It just isn't that HARD to wind new ones here yerself."
Oh really? Have you done it yerself? ;-)

The bobbin is not a bobbin in the normal sense. It does not have sides that constrain the wire. There are four metal tabs sticking up, and there were four U-shaped pieces made of something cardboard-like that sit inside those tabs. The cardboard piece acted as the sides of the bobbin, but even then it did not extend all the way up the sides to the top. (In this photo of the bobbin, they are not shown because they disintegrated upon disassembly. You can see them in the photo of an original coil.) Then there was some kind of flexible metal band made of wire wrapped around the coil, and four straps, one around each side to hold the band and wires in place.

coil and wrapper.jpg Coil --1000.jpg

Rewinding is a last resort. It would require a special jig and be very complicated to do. Easier to ask here first, and in fact, I've heard from a member that might have them.

I'll check with "9100" and see what he has. Good suggestion.
 
I have a set from a motor I had to scrap just because it took up too much space. email me at [email protected]. I'm not afraid to ship them. They will probably need to be crated because they will break out of a cardboard box, but I can do that.

Bill

PS, I once wound a hexafilar winding of #8 square for a transformer that operated over 5:1 frequency range and needed to have minimum flux leakage reactance. No big deal, just go about it methodically.

Winding a winding that does not have spool is no biggie, either. Make a form from polypropylene and paint epoxy on each layer. when it cures, you will have a self contained coil that does not stick to the form. BTDT.
 
I don't get how you put stuff in qty on ebay and won't ship

Not like he is giving them away


I would be cautious about paying for untested stuff tho, dunno if it is worth a 2 day trip[was a time I coulda marathoned it through...]
 
Last year before Thermite gave me his small frame Reliance I tried to contact the ebay seller mentioned above. I went through Ebay messaging, the phone number on his business website, and the email on his business website, and he would not communicate via any of the methods. I gave up trying. And I had made it clear that would travel to his place.
 
Last year before Thermite gave me his small frame Reliance I tried to contact the ebay seller mentioned above. I went through Ebay messaging, the phone number on his business website, and the email on his business website, and he would not communicate via any of the methods. I gave up trying. And I had made it clear that would travel to his place.
A very good reason he STILL has them.
 
Last year before Thermite gave me his small frame Reliance I tried to contact the ebay seller mentioned above. I went through Ebay messaging, the phone number on his business website, and the email on his business website, and he would not communicate via any of the methods. I gave up trying. And I had made it clear that would travel to his place.

that is crazy

while his price is not 'cheap' it is not insane

This forum is a world class resource for monarch advice, info, and parts, thermite helping you out is prime example of that
 
No doubt, if Bill hadn't given me the small Reliance I would have been up SC. As it is I have a superb lathe up and running.
 
Why do you think replacing bad 75 years old field coils with 75 year old maybe good coils is going to have a good ending? It is real easy to make a wood form and rewind with new wire...Phil
 
A list member who was about a 2 hour drive from me had some field coils, and gave them to me for free. The resistance on all of them checks out, so I've cleaned them up and in they'll go, with the cloth-wound pigtails replaced, of course.

Which brings me to this question: how should they be oriented in the motor? There isn't a +/- mark on them.

On two of the coils of the old motor, I was able to generate a magnetic field using a 6V battery charger. In this drawing, they are coils 4 and 2. Using a compass, I was able to determination the original orientation. They were arranged to have opposite polarity. (Actual North or South doesn't matter.) This is drawn looking at the end of the motor opposite the commutator side.

field orientation.jpg

However, I'm not sure about coils 3 and 1. I presume they should also be wired to have opposite polarity. Should the coil #1 have the same polarity as #4, or #2? Or does it matter?
 
Coil 1 North, coil 2 south, coil 3 North, coil 4 south, your print is wrong. and don't mess with the inter poles!!! ...Phil

OK, I've installed the new field coils. Connected 6VDC to the series and walked a compass around the inside. I think this is correct based on your post above.

field coils with compass.jpg

What are "inter poles"?
Here is a drawing of the connections to the other coils. I've been very careful to indicate which direction the wire winds around the coil. Does this look right? I have been careful not to disturb the wiring on the motor as-received, but did have to repair some connections.

small coils connected to the brushes.jpg

What do these coils do?
 
lathe now running again

I finished wiring it up last night with the replacement field coils and it now runs again. Whew!
 
I finished wiring it up last night with the replacement field coils and it now runs again. Whew!
Now you need to make sure you do not power them up when you are not using the lathe which will cook the new field coils like it did the old ones.
 
power switch added

Now you need to make sure you do not power them up when you are not using the lathe which will cook the new field coils like it did the old ones.

I wired in a large cutoff switch next to the 220V feed, so I only turn it on when I am going to use the lathe.
 
Now you need to make sure you do not power them up when you are not using the lathe which will cook the new field coils like it did the old ones.

Modulars have a timer that keeps the field on for a minute or so after running, then cuts it off. The problem is that they used a lousy, way overpriced and unreliable timer. One stuck on and the operators didn't shut it down at shift's end. In the morning the headstock was too hot to hold a hand on. I replaced the timer with a modern solid state one and that was that.

The addition of a pair of Scissio's solid state thyratron replacements made it even more reliable.

Bill
 








 
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