Wiring up a 1984 Monarch 10EE -- 480 vs 240V 3 Phase

Dear forum members,

this is my first post here, so a quick note about myself: I'm working as a software engineer and my hobby is building cars. I'm beefing up my shop with some equipment in order to be able to build most of the parts I need. My most recent purchase is a 1984 Monarch 10EE. I just got the machine and have a lot of question marks in my head -- still trying to get all the info together to understand the details and differences about and between those machines.
The first thing I encounter is: how to hook it up? I bought it through a tool broker and they can't tell me if it was running on 240V or 480V (3 phase) before. I have 240V in my shop, so ideally would like to run it on that voltage. I've studied a lot of forum posts but didn't really find some instructions for machines from that area. I've read about "WiaD" and "module drive" and "dc motor"; I guess that I have a dc motor (at least that's what I read out of a badge on the machine).
So let me summarize my question as follows: can someone tell me how to find out whether the lathe is setup for 240V or 480V? Please find some pictures attached. Happy to add more if that's helpful. Any help is greatly appreciated. Any useful resources are also appreciated of course. Thanks a lot!

Given that the circuit board in your first picture says “Monarch Sidney” on it, you have the factory original circuitry. Getting the manuals from Monarch for your serial number is definitely the first step.

You have the Monarch Sidney Solid State regenerative drive-these are fairly rare and a little exotic on this forum and require real 3 phase power to function (utility 3 phase or Phase Perfect required). It's the last generation DC drive from Monarch, succeeding the Ward-Leonard, WIAD and Modular drives.

Usually Monarch's practice was to build a "standard" drive then adapt it to the end user's line voltage. This is usually (not always) accomplished by taps for different line voltages on the main transformer which is found in the rear compartment under the chip pan. The vast majority of 10EEs built have DC motors but are driven via AC line voltage- one function of the drive is to convert your AC line voltage to DC to drive your motor.

As suggested above- call Monarch and get the factory wiring schematics, your drive is totally different from the various 10EE electrical drive schematics you may find floating on the net.

Regarding the GE motor- that is a very high quality motor. Not sure where Thermite gets the idea the Reliance motor is somehow better. Have run 10EEs with Louis Allis, Reliance and GE motors driven by Modular and high quality aftermarket DC drives- the motors all perform identically and they all have very long life.

First of all: thank you all for the thorough explanations, that's really helpful. I've contacted Monarch via email yesterday and sent them all the serial #. Haven't heard back yet, so will give them a call on Monday -- thanks for the advice. I think I did find the main transformer. With the box it resides in being installed in the machine, it's difficult to identify any of the specs printed on, so I might need to pull that box today.



I also found this transformer in the front compartment, which seems compatible w/ both voltages:



Based on the above replies, here's what I will do next:
1. Remove the box with the transformer in the back in order to have a better look at it
2. If things become obvious: rewire, plug in an see if it runs
3. If things don't become obvious: I understand that it is safe to run the machine on 3 phase 240V -- it might not spin full rpm, which I can check. Since I have 3 phase 240V "coming out of the wall" that seems worth a shot
4. Call Monarch on Monday to get more info about the machine

It would be boring if things were easy

Geez, Bill- the "RPM" motors were not used by Monarch, so why even bring it up here and act like it has anything to do with the topic at hand?
RE the Phase Perfect, you may be correct in theory but there are lots of machines with all kinds of electronic drives that run great on them and they are pretty much the only alternative when utility 3 phase is not available. I would not hesitate at all to run any industrial machine that required 3 phase power off a Phase Perfect.

Instead of confusing things here, perhaps you could start a new thread and elaborate there about why you don't like the Phase Perfect and why you think the Reliance RPM series motors are so terrific and tell the story about how Monarch ignored your expertise when they designed and built the 10EE drive system.

Uberhost

Call Monarch and talk to Scott, he is very helpful. Get the manual for your machine.
Monarch can check your circuit board.

I think it was John from Thermopolis (Amoretti), he run his machine on a RPC before he had 3 phase run to his shop.

Hal

Thanks for the responses -- didn't intend to start a dispute. I found out that the transformers are setup for 480V and it looks like they can be setup for 240V, so I'll give Monarch a call on Monday and ask for some wiring diagrams as you recommended.

I'm fairly positive that the electronics are fine. Just wanted to make sure nothing gets damaged due to wrong input Voltage. I will certainly not scrap this machine, it's such a beauty. Spent the day cleaning all the compartments and the levers, looks really nice now and I can't wait to start using it.

I have a similar drive. Runs fine on phase perfect.
They are phase sensitive, you need to get the incoming
Wires in right order or it will not work. Usually the only
Problem will be motor runs backward but
Not on this one. If they aren't right won't work

this tread is a mess thanks to termite, I will stay out, there has been some success with phase perfect, I will only use conditioned utility 3 phase,

...

the op has one of the finist lathes ever made, in times before ... there was much more input here, he has run nearly everyone off, The forum is strickly amature, and discussion of expensive machines breeds resentment now days, your problem is complex without utility 3phase. The voltage has to be boosted, along with a digital phase converter. Keep in mind, the drive components are old, some components can fail from age like capacitors, I look over the boards with a glass, looking for signs of heat, leaking....or previous repair.
I will try to keep an eye on your situation, hoping you don't have, or run into a board problem.

I've got the Sidney drive on mine. Get the electrical schematics first. There are three, maybe four, transformers to reconfigure for the lower voltage. Plus, rewiring the coolant pump. You might also have to bump the current limits on the motor starters also. I did this to mine, but it was 15 years ago.

Dave

Thanks to everyone for the interest, wanted to give a quick update here. I gave Monarch a call, they send me the wiring diagrams and I changed jumpers on all 3 transformers + fuses from 15 to 30A. The machine runs great now.
I then fixed all the other broken things (electrical lead screw switch was stuck, some of the thread selectors were stuck) and eventually tried the machine. Unfortunately the feed does not work: the apron gets stuck with a clicking sound. Ended up disassembling the apron and found out that the worm feed gear is totally worn. I hope this did not damage the ways in the past, hard to tell with the bare eye.
On the good news: the motor spins, both directions, every speed and in high and low gear. Coolant pump also works, now I have to go and get a new feed gear from Monarch.