Wrong on my CW16

For years I assumed the round thing on back up head stock (covered up by big electrical enclosure) was a sight glass.



Not so - its a shaft collar on one of the shifter shafts - and it LEAKS!

Probably has a packing gland like on the front - under the stacked levers there

johnoder said:

Not so - its a shaft collar on one of the shifter shafts - and it LEAKS!

Probably has a packing gland like on the front - under the stacked levers there

Click to expand...

You mean this one here? (See attached). Every penetration point on mine shows evidence of slow seepage. Wonder if I can replace all the packing with O-rings during the rebuild? Should hold up decently if the mating surfaces are smooth.

jlkunka said:

You mean this one here? (See attached). Every penetration point on mine shows evidence of slow seepage. Wonder if I can replace all the packing with O-rings during the rebuild? Should hold up decently if the mating surfaces are smooth.

Click to expand...

Nice access on yours

I would have to take off the huge electrical enclosure to do anything to mine

A drip pan will do fine

Mine came with the optional tiny starter box... just big enough for a reversing starter. Not looking forward to removing taper pins and getting all the shift levers off. Also looking into how to best repair the couple broken knobs and quick-change selector. On both of them a piece of the casting is broken.

Ah... just how full did it seem?

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Why, just fine,since I used the front one

The fill cap is on the back of top, and I did not know just how generous Monarch was with their sight glasses

jlkunka said:

Mine came with the optional tiny starter box... just big enough for a reversing starter. Not looking forward to removing taper pins and getting all the shift levers off. Also looking into how to best repair the couple broken knobs and quick-change selector. On both of them a piece of the casting is broken.

Click to expand...

I had to get one of the levers off my ATW, to repair the caved in opaque sight glass. The taper pin was easy enough to remove but the lever was a fairly manly press fit onto the shaft. Took opposed screwdrivers to get it moving and it was a struggle all the way off. Rotating it on the shaft using the handle made reinstallation easier, though it is helpful to clock it so the last turn-and-push leaves the taper pin holes aligned.

Naturally I inadvertently left the protective film on the plastic lens so there are tatters of it where I couldn't pull it out...