WTB: 8" 4 Jaw Chuck for 10EE
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  1. #1
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    Default WTB: 8" 4 Jaw Chuck for 10EE

    Thought I'd post to see if anyone has a good condition 8" 4 jaw D1-3 mount chuck that they would consider parting with.

    Thanks in advance,
    Ryan

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    All sorts of made in USA 8 inch 4 jaws on eBay. Get one and a D1-3 backplate from Shars.

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    Quote Originally Posted by bll230 View Post
    All sorts of made in USA 8 inch 4 jaws on eBay. Get one and a D1-3 backplate from Shars.
    I'm watching a couple on eBay, never easy to be confident of condition.

    thx
    Ryan

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    The beauty of wanting a 4-jaw is that the condition is not as critical as with a 3-jaw scroll chuck.. Which, even if new could have unacceptable runout at various jaw openings.
    A 4-jaw should be reliably able to center and hold almost anything.. Only an extremely worn 4-jaw would be a problem.

    What is a concern is the rpm rating of the chuck.. an 8" chuck is a lot of mass, and finding one rated for over 2500-3000 rpm is not easy without spending some fairly serious cash for a steel chuck, not a 'cast steel' or cast chuck.. But a machined forged steel chuck.

    If you have a 10ee that will not turn over 2500 rpm, that will widen your search possibilities.
    Also: a 6" or 7" chuck will usually have a higher rpm rating, everything else equal..

    Good Luck!
    DualValve

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    Quote Originally Posted by reidry View Post
    I'm watching a couple on eBay, never easy to be confident of condition.

    thx
    Ryan
    You need heavy grip? Or "finesse"?

    I have two 7 1/4" "medium" NOS from Small Tools, Cleveland.

    "SCA" brand, rather nicely made. In Sweden.

    See also Bergman, same outfit AFAIK.

    Small Tools have a light-duty (narrow jaws & screws) 8" currently listed.

    And PM has this about Bergman:

    Bergman Tyringe Chuck?

    If you want a "heavy", with thick jaws, larger screws, (for one of my many 6") I found a NOS Yuasa.

    MOST under 10" MANUAL chucks from US "names" have been imports for Donkey's Years.

    Those who still MAKE manual chucks generally make only the larger ones. Where "some" money still is. Serious money went-over to power chucks for CNC spindles ages ago.

    USED, even "Grand Old" Cushman, Cushman-Skinner-Horton, Union & sputniks?

    I have not had very good luck.

    Seems like the "big kids" scarfed up the best ones ages ago, then KEPT them, sold-off the worn or damaged ones!



    Which keep going 'round and 'round.. on eBay, not on spindles.

    Well worth it to buy NOS or NNB if not NEW, full-stop.

  6. #6
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    I'll second Bill's suggestion for a used grand old chuck... I have an 8" Skinner 4jaw with integral d1-3 back, the body is lightened by boring some big holes in the back, the height of the chuck body is only 2 ⅛". Its light, easy to sling on and off the spindle. For me that's a big plus. This is a model that was almost standard equipment on round dials, so they've been around the block a few times. They usually don't sell for big bucks. I also have a 6" Buck 4jaw with a removable back, so the height of the chuck body is 3". It weighs more than the Skinner. It has taller jaws so sometimes that's an advantage. They get used about equally.

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    I am watching eBay but haven’t found one yet.

    Ryan

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    I posted that HGR has two for sale at 199ea
    Used Machine Tools Equipment For Sale | HGR Industrial Surplus
    Four rows down, better be movin quick! Grab the 11" face plate, they call a spacer for $59.....

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    Quote Originally Posted by donie View Post
    I posted that HGR has two for sale at 199ea
    Used Machine Tools Equipment For Sale | HGR Industrial Surplus
    Four rows down, better be movin quick! Grab the 11" face plate, they call a spacer for $59.....
    Grabbed the shinier one and the "spacer".

    Thanks for the heads up!

    Ryan

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    How did you know it was a D1-3?

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    Quote Originally Posted by medsar View Post
    How did you know it was a D1-3?
    I hope Donie had inside info … Looking at their "new arrivals" they took in a 10ee and seem to have separated all the chucks and faceplates. The remaining chucks have 5 digit serial numbers ala monarch and one of them was photographed with the 11" faceplate.

    If I guessed wrong, I'll find it a new home on eBay.

    Ryan

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    I don't think you went wrong on the chuck, I could almost read the brands from the photos. The chucks are older then the machine they have for sale. The older chucks have the lightening holes in the back, were precisly fit to the machine they were numbered to, the jaws ground so as to hold a rod true, at distance from the jaws.
    The last price I saw from Monarch for a 8" 4 jaw chuck $2200. HGR didn't know what they fit, or they would be priced better, the face plate $59.
    After cleaning the rust off an entire milling machine, for a small job like that, a can of PB Blaster and a brass brush, will have that chuck looking great.

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    Quote Originally Posted by reidry View Post
    I hope Donie had inside info …
    Yer good. He sort of DOES have.. or a damned good Mark One Eyeball..



    Worst-case, this or some other FUTURE purchase, you get D1-4.

    Easy-peasy to tell apart IF yah can get the lister to mike a stud rather than bother trying to measure the taper-mount diameter or span. The camlock stud diameters differ.

    No fear. Even IF that happens the D1-4 are easily as widely used as D1-3, if not more so, ergo not hard to find a new home for.

    OR swap to a new backplate, if not "integral" built.

    Coupla of my "treasures" are so VERY danged hard to find AT ALL, taking-in D1-4 and doing the extra work was better than waiting "forever"!

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    Back in 1981, my friend bought a 1959 ee in really good shape with all the stuff for $23000! Since those days, it sort of pays to keep an eye out for items like chucks, and spare parts.
    I have never seen D14 chucks in that style, so, you should be good.
    The 4 jaw chuck can be the most accurate jaw chuck, here is a photo of a heavily modified 8" chuck cut down to 5 3/8", hole enlarged to machine at high speeds.
    At the top is the cut down 8", jaws were also cut, hole enlarged, screws shortened jaw faces ground in machine then dynamically balanced. This chuck helps milk the precision out of the machine for shafts up to 2".
    The other chucks are for smaller diameters, for minimum deflection a 4 jaw is better.


    The 8" 4 jaw was damaged before I cut it up!

    Lower right is a 4 1/2" Skinner, notice the width of the jaws.

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    Yep, the HGR chuck is definitely a D1-3. I'll try and post some photos of the pieces I bought from that lot of 10EE tooling. I snatched it up right away and got some very gloat worthy steals!

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    When the gov sold off ee lathes at Hanford, the chucks and other stuff would sell first, then weeks or ? later, the machines would come up.

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    HGR chuck arrived. It’s a Cushman D1-3, jaws are still tight. Cleaned it up a bit and runout on the face at the outer edge is just over .0015, seems like a good buy. Chucked up a piece of 2” aluminum round, jaw grip seems even, no issue dialing into .001

    The faceplate is also in good condition, stoned down a couple of burrs at some of the drilled holes and it’s ready to go.

    Thanks again for the heads up.

    Ryan

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    I find the chucks unmistakable from others at a glance, because they are different. I use face plates enough that I have to have one, that was a great deal there.
    Because I spent the money for the best, any deviation from the best possible is not acceptable, I would focus on that 4 jaw and bring it to truth.
    Starting with removing the pins, stoning the face, check the taper contact, check the spindle face, and try again. Failed again? I would scrape, and or lap while leaning on the rise, until the chucks face runs true, then grind the jaws in the machine, so as a bar will run true at distance from the jaws.

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  23. #19
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    Quote Originally Posted by reidry View Post
    HGR chuck arrived. It’s a Cushman D1-3, jaws are still tight. Cleaned it up a bit and runout on the face at the outer edge is just over .0015,
    Cushmans - America's best, back when that one was "probably" made - were better than that. Your one may still be as well.

    Well worth a tad more invested as to hunting-down the last of burrs, worn camlock studs, which ones to mark and use the same hole, each go as give the best fit.

    The better the fit, the stronger it be, as well as the more accurate, and the longer it will stay that way.

    I did say "well worth it"? Surely beats the NEW price in adjusted US$, yah?



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