Howa Sangyo Strong 1000 manual lathe parts?
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  1. #1
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    Default Howa Sangyo Strong 1000 manual lathe parts?

    Last week I purchased a Howa Sangyo "Strong 1000" 17x40, 7.5 HP lathe and am in the process of cleaning it up and making sure that its damn good and ready to make parts for me. Cleaning out the lube system, making sure its got clean proper oil and new filter, adjusting stomp brake, cleaning coolant sump etc.

    From some quick googling it appears that Howa Sangyo made manual lathes which were ?rebadged or sold as "Okuma-Howa" and eventually just Okuma manual lathes. I'm under the impression that Okuma bought Howa's lathe division but not 100% certain on that.

    I did get a manual with this machine but the parts numbers it has are just correlated to the number on the drawing, nothing substantial I can google.

    That said I'm looking for an oil pump inlet filter and a couple of the oil zerks to replace a missing one and a couple that just look beat up. I've put a call in to Hartwig of Omaha which looks to be my nearest Okuma dealer but the person I spoke with in their parts department said they weren't sure about whether or not they sell parts for Howa Sangyo manual machines.

    Any help is appreciated!

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    You are pretty much on your own resources for any repairs / service for these machines.....it's worth it though! I have a 1500 and a 1000......20 years
    Check the coolant tank bottom for corrosion / wear that may cause leakage.
    Check the input sheave for loose condition.
    Check the change gear part ID's #83,84 and 85 on "Feed Gear Box Illustrated Parts" for loose condition. This could cause abnormal load / wear and eventual deterioration of the "sacrificial" gear under the rear cover.
    I'm machining my second set of change gears for my 1500 .......because I run the daylights out of it. You're going to be so happy with this machine once you've gotten it's "feel".
    Best of luck....message back if you need anything else.

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    Thanks for the Reply. I bought this lathe back in May '14, 2 years later its moved from where I purchased near Minneapolis to my old job/shop in Iowa and after my move last year its now in Colorado. Its a solid lathe but still needs a bit of work. I found that the Okuma distributor (Hartwig Omaha) was not real good about following up on parts and information requests. I've been pretty busy with work but haven't tried Hartwig Denver to see if they're any better.

    Re: some things to check, appreciate it. I've completely changed out the oil in the reservoir and cleaned the filter (brass screen filter, I thought it was element when I posted as I hadn't pulled it apart yet), ran some kerosene thru it at low RPM for a half hour and then drained that, wiped down the reservoir and replaced with new Mobil DTE light. I am looking for new oiler inserts for the compound rest as the ones on it are MIA/plugged up to keep metal out. Honestly I'd like to put some oil cups on it if I can find ones to fit it for the slideways on the compound rather than worry about oiling thru the zerks every day.

    So far my impressions of this machine are that its built like a brick shithouse. Upgraded to this from a Cincinnati 15x54 with 5 HP. With 7.5 HP and a nice Parker Eurodrive VFD for adjustability it really rips spinning big drills and hard cuts. This machine does have some wear due to previous use that I want to correct (going to have the tailstock ground round again and make a new quill for it, and one of these days I'll tear apart the compound rest and scrape it flat again so it slides easier) but so far its a good match for me and does everything I need it to.

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    I'm glad you're doing well....I jinxed myself! Blew apart the primary input gear yesterday on my 1000; it's a 5HP. This is the Achilles Heel of these machines. I'm having extra gears made. I believe the brake has been out of adjustment for a bit. A sudden grab, crack and the spindle kept right on going. Of course, at the worst possible workload demand.

    I do most of my turning with an Aloris CXA-20 TNMG holder. 600 RPM .011/rev and sometimes a 1/4" on dia. with 4 to 5 inch bar.....dry. Both machines will cut like this all day long. The 1000 5HP has a 10" chuck and has more torque than the 1500 7.5HP. The smaller chuck has less likelihood to pick up harmonics than the larger too.

    Do you remember who you purchased from? There have not been many of these in the Minneapolis area.....been here 25 years.

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    Quote Originally Posted by FourM View Post
    I'm glad you're doing well....I jinxed myself! Blew apart the primary input gear yesterday on my 1000; it's a 5HP. This is the Achilles Heel of these machines. I'm having extra gears made. I believe the brake has been out of adjustment for a bit. A sudden grab, crack and the spindle kept right on going. Of course, at the worst possible workload demand.
    I'm assuming you're having replacements fabbed because Okuma/hartwig no longer carry them? Whats a replacement cost?

    I do most of my turning with an Aloris CXA-20 TNMG holder. 600 RPM .011/rev and sometimes a 1/4" on dia. with 4 to 5 inch bar.....dry. Both machines will cut like this all day long. The 1000 5HP has a 10" chuck and has more torque than the 1500 7.5HP. The smaller chuck has less likelihood to pick up harmonics than the larger too.
    I've got a Dorian Quadra 40 (CA sized) indexable toolpost on mine. Lots of work done with CNMG 432 and TCMT 32.52 holders though it really depends on what I do - lots of one-off and repair type work so tooling tends to be catered towards what I need to do rather than production. I've got both 3- and 4-jaw 12" chucks and just recently picked up a Jacobs rubberflex collet chuck for it. Mine was fitted with a nice Acu-rite DRO before I got it, and I fitted a Nema 12 enclosure with a Parker Eurodrive 15 HP VFD so I can run on single phase 230.

    Do you remember who you purchased from? There have not been many of these in the Minneapolis area.....been here 25 years.
    After some haggling I bought it from Naabsales after I went up there to check out a 13" lathe that wasn't up to my expectations. No idea who they bought it from.

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    Quote Originally Posted by greenbuggy View Post
    I'm assuming you're having replacements fabbed because Okuma/hartwig no longer carry them? Whats a replacement cost?

    I've never purchased from an outside source...always made my own parts..usually with improvements.
    Because I'm having 5 gears made....$3000. This is item 15 in the illustrated parts of headstock. Turn, hob, heat treat, grind ID and wire cut 3 interior spline. I'm going with 8620 but my gut says S-7 may have been the best choice. Late 90's I was quoted $15-1800 for one piece.
    Do yourself a favor and magnaflux or die penetrant inspect this gear for cracks in the splines. When I get my set in I'm going to grind very small radii to relieve stress risers.



    I've got a Dorian Quadra 40 (CA sized) indexable toolpost on mine. Lots of work done with CNMG 432 and TCMT 32.52 holders though it really depends on what I do - lots of one-off and repair type work so tooling tends to be catered towards what I need to do rather than production. I've got both 3- and 4-jaw 12" chucks and just recently picked up a Jacobs rubberflex collet chuck for it. Mine was fitted with a nice Acu-rite DRO before I got it, and I fitted a Nema 12 enclosure with a Parker Eurodrive 15 HP VFD so I can run on single phase 230.

    Nice set-up. I use the CXA because I'm a bit...ahhh...aggressive in my approach. I'd rather replace the external stuff than the internal. LOL! I'm a job-shop too. Half my work is design and build of fixturing. The other half, "Can you make it like this?....just not broken?" I can change and set up on 4 or 5 things in a day....love the variety of what I see.
    I'd like to find a Howa 2500 (25 x 84 15HP) Used one as a leadscrew tapper for 2"-3pitch acme thread years ago. Also set it up as a HBM re-coring treads for American Crane.



    After some haggling I bought it from Naabsales after I went up there to check out a 13" lathe that wasn't up to my expectations. No idea who they bought it from.
    Now I know who got that machine! I was looking at it a couple years ago and vacillated a bit too long it seems. You're going to be very happy with this.

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    Hello Gentlemen,
    I just bought a Howa Sangyo 1500 on the model plate it says Howa 430x1500 and reading your previous posts see that you are pleased with these machines. This is my first purchase of a machine tool.To make a long story short I got it home and found I didn't check all I should have before I put my money down.My problem is the number dial to change thread pitch is stuck on #1 the dial moves but doesn't change.I can change the letter gears and thread the tpi pitch that #1 and whatever the letters say.Is there just a loose nut behind the wheel(me)am I missing something? If it's not me can you offer any advice on what it might be? the half-nut and lead screw seem to be fine.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Tomclark View Post
    Hello Gentlemen,
    I just bought a Howa Sangyo 1500 on the model plate it says Howa 430x1500 and reading your previous posts see that you are pleased with these machines. This is my first purchase of a machine tool.To make a long story short I got it home and found I didn't check all I should have before I put my money down.My problem is the number dial to change thread pitch is stuck on #1 the dial moves but doesn't change.I can change the letter gears and thread the tpi pitch that #1 and whatever the letters say.Is there just a loose nut behind the wheel(me)am I missing something? If it's not me can you offer any advice on what it might be? the half-nut and lead screw seem to be fine.
    Do you have 2 levers on the selector for #1-#8? On my Strong 1000 there's the outside lever (that actually selects the range) and an inside lever that I think pushes the gear mesh together or apart, or maybe just locks the range lever in place? Either way with the inner lever tightened I am unable to move the outer lever that selects range. A pic of your setup may help us diagnose your issue.

    Rereading it might be that you just have something disconnected inside the gearbox itself. Never torn mine apart enough to suggest what exactly it is but I know that on my lathe's brake it has a pin that likes to work itself loose.

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    Hey guys, bit of an old thread but I was wondering of any of you know where I can find a manual for a Howa 1000. I am in the process of buying one and am looking for basic specs including weight and any special setup and operating instructions


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