Graziano sag 12 wiring diagram
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  1. #1
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    Would anyone know where I could obtain a wiring diagram for a Graziano sag 12 lathe. We tried a company in England and after paying the price for a complete book we found no wiring diagrams were included. We cannot even get our emails answered. We are willing to purchase a diagram. Any help would be welcome. Thanks Bruce

    We received info on the lathe. Thanks Bruce

    [ 06-02-2005, 10:24 PM: Message edited by: spsiege ]

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  3. #2
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    Hello Bruce.

    Try this link. A friend of mine was able to get me a copy of a SAG 12 manual. It has good machine diagrams and in the back has schematic for the wirring. I hope this works for you.

    Mike.

    http://xsi01.msu.montana.edu/troll/G...2%20Manual.pdf

  4. #3
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    Hello,

    would someone have a newer website or contact for a wiring diagram of a Graziano SAG12 lathe? I can't seem to get in contact with the Montana Education Dept. tonight but will try again tomorrow.

    Thanks, Steve

  5. #4
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    I was sent this scan last year by HuFlungDung of this forum, I was interested in seeing the brake option (my manual has a similar drawing, but no brake).

    Some have single speed, some have two speed motors. I guess this drawing shows a single speed.




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    Thank you Peter,

    this is very helpful! The forward and reverse switches have gone out but I've found new replacements through Stevens Engineering. Now I'm just trying to get the brake working again. The two switches, for it, test ok but it still isn't working. I'm thinking theirs a relay down below that may be bad.
    I really appreciate the diagram. It's going to help me tremendously. Thank you! Steve

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    I can e-mail pdf for Sag 12 with 1-speed motor, 2-speed motor or 2-speed with brake. Please advise.

  8. #7
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    Hello Troll

    I have a SAG12 under restoration it has 2 speed motor and no brake. I would be grateful if you could email me a circuit diagram also.

    Thanks, Terry

  9. #8
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    Hi Troll,

    That'd be great! Thank You.
    I did manage to get mine all squared away with the help of Steven Engineering. They had 40 brand new BZ-2RD switches in stock. the only difference was that the originals had screw-down lugs and the new ones required solder to attach the wires. If anyone has questions on how to do this operation please ask me. It was very easy but you need to know a couple of cautions or (once re-assembled) it won't work as smooth as original. Thanks to all!

  10. #9
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    I was going to provide my copy of the same page. I see however, that this copy has more handwritten info. This information will quite possibly be very useful to me in that my SAG 12 has the nasty habit of powering itself down as soon as it is put into gear (this is why I acquired it) I will be looking for item "M" the timer. Where is this device? is it in the electrical panel?

  11. #10
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    The M is a device composed of a relay on a little cantilever shelf on the right hand side of the panel, as you face it from the rear, pretty much as it is located on the diagram. There is capacitor underneath it (shown on the right side of the diagram) and an array of what appear to be disk capacitors that are connected tot he six clutch coils. These look like resistors on the diagram, but I don't think they are. I'm too dumb with wiring to have it figured out with much confidence, but I expect it is an RC circuit that opens the points of the relay after a time at which it is reasonable to expect that the switch on the oil pump has closed. When or if oil switch goes open, the contator set opens up and the motor shuts off.
    I'm in the process of bypassing most of the works in the panel on my SAG12 as part of a VFD installation. All that I'm going to be using from the panel is the DC supply for the clutches and the on and off switches. I'm mostly done. Details to follow on a new post soon! Watch this space!

  12. #11
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    Jackerdad,

    Have a read over some of the older posts here (so I don't have to repeat the info [img]smile.gif[/img] ) - but just remember that the motor switches off when it thinks the oil pressure in the transmission is too low. The timer gives the oil pump time to get up to pressure at start up. (At least, that is my take on it).

    Now this seems to be a common problem (the switching off), and not always because of low oil pressure - but it could be. See Gizmo's rebuild where there was an error in oil pump assembly.

    I am just suggesting that you check out the situation first before by-passing the switch, it might need an oil change (every 400 hours), filter cleaned, faulty pressure switch etc).

    I think that it would be a good idea to put a pressure gauge into the system (put a tee into the outlet where the pressure switch fits), then you can be sure.
    Graziano told me the pressure should be 3-5 atmospheres.

    I am no expert on this, any other input appreciated.

    GizmoWizard, sounds like you've been busy again!

  13. #12
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    Thanks for the further input Gizmowizard and Peter. I'm hoping to not do modifications to the design save something I can understand like a pressure gauge. It most definitely needs an oil change and a thorough cleaning of filters and such. There is a rectangular block mounted to the transmission housing on the lower right facing the spindle end. Is this the oil pump housing? Do I remove, clean and reinstall this assembly every 3000 miles?

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    Jackerdad,

    You shouldn't have to touch the block itself, which contains the oil pump and filter. The pump is in the top half of the block, the filter in the lower half. Just unscrew the large bung in the lower half to remove the filter.

    There should be another filter in the headstock, behind the upper of the two headstock sight glasses.

    Take care in both systems to be scrupulously clean - the transmission and headstock are full of hardened shafts, needle rollers, taper rollers etc, no place for anything but pure oil!

  15. #14
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    That is indeed the pump. It's pretty easy to get off and clean, but the first thing to do is remove the large knurled round thing at the bottom. Remove that and clean the screen.
    On my lathe, the screen wasn't too dirty, but the trans iself was pretty coated with very fine black sludge, mostly burned oil, since I had some fried bearings and much evidence of an overheated coil. You can see photos at www.gizmowizard.com.
    The upper round thing covers the pump impeller. Mark its position before you remove it, unless the clocking is already marked somehow as is should be. It will go on in three positons, but only one is correct. There is a slot in the backside of the cover that connects the pressure side of the pump to the center of the pump shaft, which is hollow and feeds all the bearings running on the input shaft.

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    Thanks again guys! guess what- I was studying the timer relay this morning, you know just pokin' around with a cup o' coffee and the capacitor below the "resistors" is disconnected on one of his little legs! Time to break out the soldering iron. After this (and an oil change) it's time to learn about power inverters.

  17. #16
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    Has anyone found a suitable transformer to replace the one shown in the wire diagram?


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