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  1. #181
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    Default

    Remove the fan below the electrical cabinet

    Peter

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  3. #182
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    Default clacth box leak

    Hi,

    Today we took out the clutch box and inspected it. We found that the cover has 5 screws missing
    and it is not properly sealed.

    After some cleaning etc. I made a new seal, glued it with permatex, added the missing screws and loctite
    the screws.

    I will check it tomorrow but we are confident that this was the main reason for the oil leak

    Peter your images helped a lot, thanks.

    This is a great group...

    Thanks for everyone ...

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  5. #183
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    Quote Originally Posted by noamw View Post
    Hi,

    Today we took out the clutch box and inspected it. We found that the cover has 5 screws missing
    and it is not properly sealed.

    After some cleaning etc. I made a new seal, glued it with permatex, added the missing screws and loctite
    the screws.

    I will check it tomorrow but we are confident that this was the main reason for the oil leak

    Peter your images helped a lot, thanks.

    This is a great group...

    Thanks for everyone ...
    Noam,
    That's great. What did you decide to do about your Reeve's belt? You might want to buy a smart phone boroscope. I've been very impressed with the one from Depstech.
    https://www.amazon.com/DEPSTECH-Wate.../dp/B01MYTHWK4

    Evan

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    Hi Evan,

    After taking out the assembly we decided that the belt is not in a bad shape and gambled
    on leaving it as is

    There is a good chance that the flange behind the reev's disks is also leaking a bit but
    we accessed that the majority of the oil leak comes from the loose cover etc...

    If it will be dripping some oil than its OK but not the big leak that we had. In all I think it
    leaked about 1.5-2 litters in several month and maybe 30h operating... The lathe is almost
    un-used mainly me

    Attached are some images of the carriage stop that I created and one of the gear handles
    repaired.

    If someone is interested I can upload more images and also drawings.

    I hope to finish repairing all the gear handles this week.

    Take care,
    Noam.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails carriage_stop.jpg   handle_lathe.jpg  

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  8. #185
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    Quote Originally Posted by noamw View Post
    Hi Evan,

    After taking out the assembly we decided that the belt is not in a bad shape and gambled
    on leaving it as is

    There is a good chance that the flange behind the reev's disks is also leaking a bit but
    we accessed that the majority of the oil leak comes from the loose cover etc...

    If it will be dripping some oil than its OK but not the big leak that we had. In all I think it
    leaked about 1.5-2 litters in several month and maybe 30h operating... The lathe is almost
    un-used mainly me

    Attached are some images of the carriage stop that I created and one of the gear handles
    repaired.

    If someone is interested I can upload more images and also drawings.

    I hope to finish repairing all the gear handles this week.

    Take care,
    Noam.
    Noam,
    Nice work on both the handles and micrometer stop.

    Evan

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  10. #186
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    Yeah, I like that stop a lot. Really nice.

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  12. #187
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    Default Graziano SAG 12S carriage stopper

    Hi,

    I cannot attache the files as they are too large. If anyone wants the drawing contact me
    and I will send it to you. My email is [email protected] ... I will post a few more images later.

    The stopper body and clamp are from Aluminum 2024, The micrometer head locking bolt
    is out of stainless 304 (purchased from an ebay seller), The micrometer head was
    purchased from an Ali express seller

    If you use a simple M8 socket head screw use a simple washer under the head. If you
    use a lever locking handle like I did you need to create a long sleeve as the handle
    cannot be flash installed it hits the chip guard.

    Here is a link to one of the sellers selling this micrometer head:
    Round Type 0 13mm Range 0 6.5mm Micrometer Head Measurement Measure Tool Rotation Smooth Gauge Measurement Tool|Micrometers| - AliExpress



    Have fun,
    Noam.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails micrometer_head.jpg  

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    Default a few more images of the carriage stop

    I want to point out that I got drawings from Peter from AU and my design was based on it !
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails imag0323.jpg   imag0322.jpg   imag0321.jpg   imag0320.jpg   imag0319.jpg  


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    Default one more...

    One more image to load...
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails imag0324.jpg  

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    Default finished fixing the gear handles in the Graziano

    Hi,

    Finished fixing the gear handles in the Graziano. Only need to prepare one handle from
    scratch for the half nut engagement lever.

    Here are a few images of what has been done, .

    I have used Peter from Nederland advise and made "covers" to the original steel inserts.
    The original inserts were held on a mandrel and turned down to 30mm over a length of 25mm
    from the end. The rest was left as it was including the groove and dimples for the balls.
    After that I glued the inserts into the stainless "covers" with Loctite 648. After it cured
    I drilled at an angle holes and taped it to 8mm .. I used Loctite 221 to hold the Bakelite
    handles in place.

    I have also made several springs that were missing and added all the missing balls.

    Now it looks like a machine to work with.

    Have fun...
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails imag0327.jpg   imag0326.jpg   imag0325.jpg  

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  17. #191
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    Default

    Noam,

    Good work, the Sag 12S is looking a lot better.

    For others interested in the carriage stop, see also this thread from a few years back.

    If you contact me for drawings, please include your email address.

    Graziano Sag 12 Accessories #3: Carriage Stop

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    Dear Peter,

    Thank you, you already sent me your drawings. My design is based on the data
    you provided and my own ideas as well.

    Thanks,
    Noam.

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    Hi all,

    Thread engagement problem...


    After replacing and installing the new handle to the thread engagement lever I face a new problem.

    When I engage the thread its slick and OK but when the carriage moves and I try to dis-engage its
    is difficult and I need to put too much effort.

    Anyone had a similar situation or has an idea what to do ?

    Thanks,
    Noam.

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    Quote Originally Posted by noamw View Post
    Hi all,

    Thread engagement problem...


    After replacing and installing the new handle to the thread engagement lever I face a new problem.

    When I engage the thread its slick and OK but when the carriage moves and I try to dis-engage its
    is difficult and I need to put too much effort.

    Anyone had a similar situation or has an idea what to do ?

    Thanks,
    Noam.
    Noam,
    My 12s shifts ok but I often need to wiggle things to get it in/out of gear, whether speed, power feed, or threading selectors. The carriage shifter moves easily and positively in/out of gear.
    Evan

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    H Evan,

    I played with the lathe and activated the thread break in the console. There is a switch
    right to the break button. This works just great.

    If you turn on the spindle and turn it off the break catches immediately.

    By the way I am getting bad surface finish and I think that the spindle bearings need
    to be tighter. Have you done that ?

    BR,
    Noam.

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    Quote Originally Posted by noamw View Post
    H Evan,

    I played with the lathe and activated the thread break in the console. There is a switch
    right to the break button. This works just great.

    If you turn on the spindle and turn it off the break catches immediately.

    By the way I am getting bad surface finish and I think that the spindle bearings need
    to be tighter. Have you done that ?

    BR,
    Noam.
    Noam,
    I haven't tried the thread brake yet. It's encouraging that it works!

    I get a decent surface finish, but it should be better. I get erratic spindle DTI measurements--it has runout of 0.0001" for part of a rotation, then jumps about 0.001", runs true, then jumps, etc. The jumps are not every 360 degrees, so it's not run out. I suspect I need to tighten preload, but haven't tackled it yet. If it's not preload, then I will need to replace the bearings. Before taking drastic measures I plan to use the lathe as I don't think I'll hurt it. I also want to repeat the tests with everything warmed up--I've only run the lathe for 10-15 minutes at a time since I've had it.

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    Hi Evan,

    I used the lathe for several hours so far.

    So far I used only carbide inserts and some carbide bits, (small diameter) for internal turning.

    In aluminum the surface is reasonable but not decent. I did turn some PH 15-5 and made a slitting
    saw arbor. Even that the PH is a hard material it turned out beautifully... loves it.

    The strange thing is when I triad to turn stainless 303/304 or simply brass, the surface finish
    is not good (I think). Its not horrible but far from great. when I removed the chuck and tested spindle
    run out it looks like almost ZERO... nice and true, no jumps.

    I could not see if there is play. I need to check again.

    I tightened the gibs, I tightened the compound slide nut and now the play is just several 100th of a millimeter.

    I do have some play (about 0.1mm or more between the half nut in the cross slide and the holder in the
    cross slide itself. I think this could be considered some back lash. I am planing to deal with this as it
    definitely adds to the total rigidity and performance but I do not think this is the cause, maybe ?.

    I also tightened the clamps in the carriage itself.

    The lathe is heavy and very nicely built so I do not think its back lash or play in the cross slide etc..

    When I use internal boring bars even a 20 mm boring bar I get chatter. In general the late is OK but I
    am expecting a much better surface finish.

    I have seen one of ABOM79 YouTube videos where he had chatter in the Monarch lath and after tightening
    the spindle bearings it was almost gone...

    My own small universal 3 Russian lathe gives a much better surface finish so I am looking for a much better
    surface finish from such a heavy lathe.

    I am planing to check bearings preload next week and hope it will help.

    I need to make a new spindle box cover plate cover gasket, fix the tail stock missing dial and maybe also
    prepare a thread dial.

    Beside the above it is more or less done :-)

    I am very happy how it came out.

    Thanks,
    Noam.

  25. #198
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    Quote Originally Posted by noamw View Post
    Hi Evan,

    I used the lathe for several hours so far.

    So far I used only carbide inserts and some carbide bits, (small diameter) for internal turning.

    In aluminum the surface is reasonable but not decent. I did turn some PH 15-5 and made a slitting
    saw arbor. Even that the PH is a hard material it turned out beautifully... loves it.

    The strange thing is when I triad to turn stainless 303/304 or simply brass, the surface finish
    is not good (I think). Its not horrible but far from great. when I removed the chuck and tested spindle
    run out it looks like almost ZERO... nice and true, no jumps.

    I could not see if there is play. I need to check again.

    I tightened the gibs, I tightened the compound slide nut and now the play is just several 100th of a millimeter.

    I do have some play (about 0.1mm or more between the half nut in the cross slide and the holder in the
    cross slide itself. I think this could be considered some back lash. I am planing to deal with this as it
    definitely adds to the total rigidity and performance but I do not think this is the cause, maybe ?.

    I also tightened the clamps in the carriage itself.

    The lathe is heavy and very nicely built so I do not think its back lash or play in the cross slide etc..

    When I use internal boring bars even a 20 mm boring bar I get chatter. In general the late is OK but I
    am expecting a much better surface finish.

    I have seen one of ABOM79 YouTube videos where he had chatter in the Monarch lath and after tightening
    the spindle bearings it was almost gone...

    My own small universal 3 Russian lathe gives a much better surface finish so I am looking for a much better
    surface finish from such a heavy lathe.

    I am planing to check bearings preload next week and hope it will help.

    I need to make a new spindle box cover plate cover gasket, fix the tail stock missing dial and maybe also
    prepare a thread dial.

    Beside the above it is more or less done :-)

    I am very happy how it came out.

    Thanks,
    Noam.
    Noam,
    I can't remember--does your tachometer work? Mine does not, but I have an external laser tach that I can use pretty easily, and I'm not looking forward to tearing into the control panel.

    Evan

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    Hi Evan,

    Yes my tachometer works but the emergency switch does not. I found a cut wire in the
    bunch of wires passing from the electrical box into the gear box/variator bay.

    I also found several disconnected terminals in the electrical box itself.

    I have not triad to operate the pump as the house and the motor are not in a good shape.

    As we do very minimal work with the lathe we can manage without coolant. I am not aggressive
    with my cuts and were needed I am manualy wetting with oil.

    Beside that, everything else seems to work OK... a part of the surface finish ...

    Well, I will figure out the problem eventually, I hope...

    BR,
    Noam.

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    Hi Evan,

    Well I decided to make a new part and replace the original warn one. I am talking about the holder of the
    cross slide half nut. I made it from 1020 steel (this is what I had) and I fucked up the most important
    measure, the 45mm (minus 0.02-0.03mm) diameter hole that holds the half nut .

    I was planing to start from scratch but after talking with a friend, he convinced me to salvage it. I enlarged
    the hole to about 48mm and made a 2mm cutoff shoulder.

    I then took some bronze and turned it to make a bushing with a shoulder. I honed and polished the internal until
    I had a tight fit over the half nut. Then I used Loctite 648 and glued it inside the steel part.

    Today I finished it and installed it on the lathe. To my surprise I still have some play. I figured out that this
    is the half nut itself. everything else has minimal play. Maybe it is warn out (makes sens ... its old).

    Any way, I tightened the half nut and after also tightening the Gib I checked again.

    I took some 35mm brass that I tested before. I made several cuts but this time the surface finish was much better
    then before. Maybe at some time in the future I will also replace the half nut but for now I am happy with this result.

    Thanks for reading and commenting.

    My apologies for not taking any images this time...

    Take care,
    Noam.


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