Graziano SAG 12S - Page 5
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  1. #81
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    As a continuation to the oil indicator issue...

    Today I have dismantle the thin plate of the head stock. It was held with some kind of steel pins. I have drilled
    holes and taped it with 3mm. I could not get out the original pins so I used a Dremell and ground them flat.

    After removing the plate and cleaning it all I made sure that the leak is from the plexiglass window. It was not
    sealing properly. I have made two new sealing from victorit but that was not sufficient. the internal part that enters
    the rotor housing is also 34mm and does not enter.. I have placed an o-ring and after closing it all it seems to be
    sealing and OK...

    After half an hour I came back to check iif it i OK and I see that the window is broken. I have tighten the screws too
    much, the window is old and had already a crack in it. Now it is completely destroyed.. I have to make a new one

    Any way if I am making a new one I will change the design a bit and add a proper location and grove for an o-ring so it will
    seal from the internal. Instead of the Plexiglas to be half in the air it should be surfaced with the aluminum part. I will
    try to get some Polycarbonate instead of the Plexiglas or PVC that was used before. Polycarbonate is much better and less
    brittle than Plexiglas.

    Once I am finished I will post some images and drawings of what I did.

    Have fun,
    Noam.

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  3. #82
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    Hi all,

    After about 5 hours (I have a small lathe) I finished the new clear oil indicator window.

    The new window defers from the original by not having large holes for the 6mm screw heads, the window is made out of Polycarbonate. The main changes is an addition of a groove for a standard o-ring (AS568-25, CS 0.070" ID 1.176")
    and the screws do not close directly on the plastic. I also created a 2mm aluminum ring. This spreads the closing
    force of the screws on a larger surface, those reducing the risk of cracking it again.

    I have attached some images 0205 and 0206 show how I held the Polycarbonate and aluminum ... I have a 75mm chuck
    and needed a way to hold it. the parts were held by double side tape

    image 0207 is the original broken window after I added the o-ring. It sealed but fell apart...

    Images 0208 and 0209 are of the new clear window. image 0210 is the hold down aluminum ring.

    Continue on next post...
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails imag0209.jpg   imag0208.jpg   imag0207.jpg   imag0206.jpg   imag0205.jpg  


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  5. #83
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    Image 0211 is the aluminum ring from the side view, images 0212 and 0213 show the clear window as it should be attached to the aluminum rotor housing.

    Images 0214 and 0215 are my hand drawings of the parts. I hope it will help any one.

    On change to the drawings instead of 6mm holes use 6.5mm as you need some room and flexibility when installing.

    Also the I had to drill a bit dipper the hole for the rotor in the clear window and also in the aluminum rotor housing.
    How much to go dipper depends on your own parts..

    I hope this will help anyone that had a similar situation like I had..

    Thank you all...
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails imag0215.jpg   imag0214.jpg   imag0213.jpg   imag0212.jpg   imag0211.jpg  


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  7. #84
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    very pretty sir!

  8. #85
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    Graziano look to have cheapened up the sight glass as well as the handles on the Sag 12S.

    Here is a Sag 12 front, note the steel support ring for the flow window. And I have to mention the unbreakable steel handles again...


    sag-12-controls-02.jpg

  9. #86
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    Hi,

    I have assembled it all, seems to be OK and no Leaks..

    For some reason the oil does not flow properly ? after starting it takes several seconds until there is oil in the rotor cavity.
    I see oil in the window, it somehow does not flow steady but rather slow pulses.. The rotor rotates and hesitates even worse than
    before my last changes.

    Does the filter has a direction ?

    It has a large rubber seal on one end and a narrow rubber ring on the other end. I think I placed it correctly with the larger rubber
    seal at the inner part.

    Any one can put some light on what I see ?

    Thanks...

  10. #87
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    Take the cover of
    Disconnect the oiltube Hold it pointed down and cover the gearbox with some lexan or simular
    Start the machine and see how the pump works
    Probably the vane is not turning freely

    Peter

  11. #88
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    Dear Peter,

    I am trying to avoid this route :-(...

    The clear window is getting oil in it, I see that, but for some reason it is either not flowing properly
    or the rotor has too much friction ?

    Do you mean the oil tube that connects to the rotor housing ?

    It worked nice before I clean the head stock gear housing and replaced the oil. It should have about 5.2 litters
    but I drained about 7 litters plus..

    I also have another problem that the clutches slip... The gear box had maybe 0.5 litter oil in it and after
    filling it with a proper oil it is now running less noisy but when I start the chuck I hear the clutch slipping ..

    Old machines not handled properly more troubles...

    From day to day it looks like a long project, probably did not estimated the amount of work involved...

  12. #89
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    Dear Peter,

    Today I checked what you have suggested.

    I removed the head stock cover, disconnected the tube coming out of the pump and used a clear plexiglass
    to see what happens.

    First the amount of oil coming out looks nice. It was like a 5-6cm fountain with steady flow. So it seems
    that the oil pump is OK.

    When I disconnected the tube connected to filter the flow was less. I checked all tubes and I counold not see
    any blockage..

    The only things that I have seen is oil between the rotor and the clear window. I think that putting another
    step into the rotor housing caused the rotor not to touch the window but some more friction. I cut about 0.5mm
    from the rotor wings, those making them a bit trapezoid. So the friction between the rotor blades and window
    on one side and aluminum housing on the other side should be reduced.

    I closed it all and next week I will check if that helped.

    BR,
    Noam.

  13. #90
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    Hi All,

    I have tested today the last changes that I did, reducing rotor blade width (trapezoid) seems to help.
    The rotor rotate better then before. It still hesitate a bit but it looks reasonable.

    Something else I am wondering if it is just with my machine or in general.

    When I start the spindle for the first time in a day it take 5-10 seconds until there is sufficient
    oil and only after that the rotor start to move. Is this normal ?

    BR,
    Noam


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