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Lifting rigging a Graziano SAG 14

otpco

Aluminum
Joined
Jan 13, 2006
Location
Canberra australia
Hi all have the books but there is no rigging instructions !!!
Have had a look and cant find anything . I was alarmed when I saw another one moved sling around spindle did not appeal to me ! so any one got any ideas thanks Mark Sunny Australia
 
Hi all have the books but there is no rigging instructions !!!
Have had a look and cant find anything . I was alarmed when I saw another one moved sling around spindle did not appeal to me ! so any one got any ideas thanks Mark Sunny Australia

Overhead lifting gear? Cazeneuve and Monarch publish. Lodge & Shipley info is around, and a few more.

Small / light-medium lathes of this sort and their rigging is not all that different, one brand to the next.

Two reasonably "universal" means:

1) STOUT sling around the bed web closest to the HS end.

This keeps all lines inside, so they are nowhere near any handwheels, clutch levers, shafting, nor leadscrew.

"Stout" because the vertical angles to the hook, and the type of wrap-under and those bend angles involved require de-rating of the strap.

Might want to look that up so you are aware what riggers must do to figure the lessened safe rating.

CAVEAT: The lift point may not be all that close to center of balance, long axis. I've had to add a supplemental choker chain or strap to level every lathe I have done with this approach.

One does that ANYWAY. Never "trust" balance all by itself! S**t happens, such as a carriage you THOUGHT was locked deciding to move. A LOT.


2) Timber, UNDER the bed, strap passed down through the bed's webs then around the timber to pick-up with the timber passing the stress to the underside of the bed casting.

Again, this keeps all lines "inside the envelope" so as to avoid risk of bending controls or shafting.

This MAY - or may NOT - give you more options as to positioning closer to point of balance than using a web, directly.

Supplemental restraints to limit tipping are still a requirement.

CAVEATS:

-- Beware use of eye-bolts! Most folks are not aware, but few of them actually have much lift rating to them.

-- One needs a means of securing the timber to the bed such that if the load bounces or the lift is relaxed it does NOT move out of position!

PS:

CHAIN can work most anywhere a web sling can work, plus many where it dare not.

Chain is easier than web slings because of easier reach adjustment, BUT.. needs VERY good protection to prevent damage to the goods. I like old tires, portions cut to fit the need with a Sawzall (try to avoid the bead.. the wire is a right bitch to cut!) ELSE good rubber doormats and wood, not paperboard.

Underneath lift as with forklifts, I'm seriously averse to.

For those, the lathe needs to be gotten onto a monster-heavy-duty pallet, BOLTED, not lag screwed, and those are not cheap to fab.

Tire cord material again, as the load best be strapped or chained to the lifting gear to prevent tumbling it.

Pipe or bar rollers, "never again"!

Too hard to control when "single hand" working, not as good as skates anyway.

"Real" machinery skates and skids I do like. But I own LOTS of skates, several types, all long-since paid-for!

Skates can be rented as well. Most rigging equipment can be rented at least here in the USA.

Most of it is at it's best when a professional rigger is the one renting it and doing your whole task, proper-like, FOR you.

Besides risk of damage to the machinery, you actually CAN kill or main yourself or others if things go badly wrong.
 
Sling in the web near the chuck yes
But put a bar in the chuck and keep each part of the sling at eighter side of the bar
That way the lathe will not tumble over that far
Also place the sling with care on eighter side of the web to balance the machine as good as possible
If the machine is not in balance lenghtwise you can adjust balance with a hoist from the web near the tailstock to the lifting point
Moving the carriage can help balance too

Peter
 








 
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