Need help with installing Forkardt chuck onto Schaublin 135

Hello,

I'm a fresh new owner of 1967 Schaublin 135.
When bought F160/D4 Forkardt chuck was included.
As stated I have troubles with installing it. I have never used D4 camlock chuck before. I don't think there should be some extra science behind properly installing it but I just cant manage it to tight it evenly, therefore to sit fully onto the spindle flange. Pins doesn't look damaged at all, I have also tried to screw/unscrew them, trying to catch that optimum depth so the counter pin can smoothly grab the radius but no success. I managed to safely secure only 2 of them but not all three...
Does anyone have some fresh advice about that?

Here are also some pictures of the chuck...

6251914592 IMG 3822 — imgbb.com

6193262352 IMG 3827 — imgbb.com

6195298352 IMG 3829 — imgbb.com

Thank you all guys!
AS

AS,

Two thoughts:

1. Do your camlock studs have a reference ring (turned witness mark)? That mark is a good starting point for the pin adjustment. It is supposed to be co-planar with the flat mounting face of the chuck.

2. Have you tried removing the studs altogether and test fitting the chuck? The taper should make contact ever so slightly before the flat face. But only just barely! Inspect the studs for straightness.

Kind Regards,

Don

Hey Don, first of all thanks for your reply.

Yes they have and I try going 1-2 turns in and out but no success of getting all three pins into secured position.
I didn't try with removing them but I will. Anyways I'll also try to replace them with the pins from the bigger faceplate I got with the machine...

I suppose there shouldn't be any bigger science on this but anyways, I thought maybe anyone had similar experience and found some small trick of doing this...

Thank you!

Aschaub said:

Hey Don, first of all thanks for your reply.

Yes they have and I try going 1-2 turns in and out but no success of getting all three pins into secured position.
I didn't try with removing them but I will. Anyways I'll also try to replace them with the pins from the bigger faceplate I got with the machine...

I suppose there shouldn't be any bigger science on this but anyways, I thought maybe anyone had similar experience and found some small trick of doing this...

Thank you!

Click to expand...

Prior PM threads cover the ESSENTIAL stoning-off of burrs, blueing to check fits, etc. If any of that is not right, all the pin-playing can do is frustrate you.

The camlock adjustments are not rocket insemination, but they can be tedious. Ideal lockup, the cam witness mark is at 4:30 O'clock. It MUST be past 3, and NOT past 6.

I pull the anchors and studs each new plate as it arrives and go though confirming the tapers, then add-back the camlock pins and tediously go round and round.

Only then do I put the anchors back in, test again and aside that plate. I keep a stash because I try to acquire "inch" anchored ones and minimize my use of "metric".

That is more a "WHO MADE it" thing than the measuring system thing.

The inch makers are (Macit) and were, more careful as to their thread quality than the "usual suspect" (Shars, mostly) among the Asian makers. I'm sure European MADE, not Asian re-branded, metric-fastener ones would be better. They just aren't as common in my marketplace.

FWIW- most of these goods will have a "sweet spot" as to lockup, if not TIR / wobble. You want to find and mark that after trying each of them, one-position-at-a-time in rotation, too.

If "no Joy"? Consider ordering a set of the spindle-nose camlocks (Macit again) and replacing those. They are long-lasting, but that is not the same as "immortal".


2CW