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S and B 1024 Type 1 questions

beckerkumm

Hot Rolled
Joined
Aug 5, 2014
Location
Wisconsin Rapids WI
I've been working on my 1024. It came from Quebec and the seller had told me it was 600v. The brake on the motor sheave does not look original and is labeled 575v which I believe is what the seller looked at. I made a 240-600 transformer and run it of a Phase Perfect. The starter was buzzing some so I took it apart to inspect the contacts and found the coils were rated at 380-415 50 hz. I didn't want to chance screwing up the complicated three speed motor so I took it off ( horrible job ). I don't want to disconnect the wires as there is no P head, just a million wires running to drum switches. I want to put good numbers on the wires first so it is sitting for now.

My question ( finally ) is whether anyone knows if the three speed motor was available in various voltages and exported. I will take the motor to my guy and have him test it but the coil voltage has me worried. The reversing starter also smoked when started so that will need work too. Motor still runs in all three speeds so the smoke didn't come from it. DaveDSCN3401.jpgDSCN3786.jpgDSCN3785.jpg
 
I've been working on my 1024. It came from Quebec and the seller had told me it was 600v. The brake on the motor sheave does not look original and is labeled 575v which I believe is what the seller looked at. I made a 240-600 transformer and run it of a Phase Perfect. The starter was buzzing some so I took it apart to inspect the contacts and found the coils were rated at 380-415 50 hz. I didn't want to chance screwing up the complicated three speed motor so I took it off ( horrible job ). I don't want to disconnect the wires as there is no P head, just a million wires running to drum switches. I want to put good numbers on the wires first so it is sitting for now.

My question ( finally ) is whether anyone knows if the three speed motor was available in various voltages and exported. I will take the motor to my guy and have him test it but the coil voltage has me worried. The reversing starter also smoked when started so that will need work too. Motor still runs in all three speeds so the smoke didn't come from it. DaveView attachment 287385View attachment 287386View attachment 287387

Ask yer motors guy, but I THINK you are good to go at dirt-common for transformers, 440-460 VAC so long as SIXTY Hz .. "as-had".

Seek info on "Volts/Hz" . JST, Jraef, couple of others, have covered it a dozen times or so "Right here, on PM"

Yer approx 600 VAC @ 60 hz wudda been serious "overkill".

Be happy it didn't get to finish that job!

'lectric brake components can be swapped easier than the motor. The rather few major makers only ever needed to make but so many coil types.
 
Seeing you have already removed the original boat anchor motor, install a new 3ph 1725 motor and a VFD.
you'll like it !
My 1024 was converted by the previous owner (good friend) and it works very well.
It now has 220v 1ph input and variable speed through the original gearbox. Braking is done through the VFD.

Peter
 
If there are any issues with the current motor, a vfd conversion will be my plan B. i have ideas for running a 200v motor on a vfd @60 and programming it to run at a full 240v at 72 hz to give a little more range while maintaining torque on the low end.. It is hard for me to swap original stuff if it works well though. Dave
 
If there are any issues with the current motor, a vfd conversion will be my plan B. i have ideas for running a 200v motor on a vfd @60 and programming it to run at a full 240v at 72 hz to give a little more range while maintaining torque on the low end.. It is hard for me to swap original stuff if it works well though. Dave

Existing motor may not HAVE it, but.. as with DC Drives, yah can add or insert a thermal sensor that any good VFD should be able to make use of to one degree or another.

Safety measure against accidental damage whilst commmissioning if nothing else.

Once tuned-up, the VFD should manage it just fine with minimal drama.

Just recieved yet-another recycled and like-new TCI/Emerson 3-P "Sine Guard" here at Chaos Manor. Those - and GE-Fanuc - are so cheap used-but-good there is scant excuse for not using them.

Wise to apply that sort of nastiness-tamer on ANY older motor, or even modern "inverter duty" ones.

It need not sit inside the machine. Zoro shipped me a brand-new NEMA 1 box with "NK" suffix (no knockouts). Nicer looking and easier to keep clean that way. Got plenty of holesaws!
 
While my motor issues are sorted out, I opened up the apron to clean and check the oil pump. The pump feeds the apron, half nut, and saddle ways. Originally the cross slide ways were also lubricated from the saddle tube as well. Mine look to have been closed up by the factory. I read somewhere ( but can't find it now ) that in later hears S and B blocked those so the only way to lubricate the cross slide was from the top through a fitting leading to the screw.

I have doubts that the pump can supply enough oil to force the excess into the tube on the underside of the saddle and distribute it to the ways. I saw a video of a fix that entailed drilling out a hole on the back side of the saddle where the tube was originally inserted to access it and add a fitting. Does that sound like a reasonable approach, are there others ways to get oil to the saddle ways, or is this just a dumb idea.

Pictures are of the apron and the tray that fills to distribute oil, the underside of the saddle with me testing the tube for blockage by sending some Kroll into it, the the final is the blocked cross slide holes. The holes are not dirty, the plugs look like solder or metal of some sort. Thanks, DaveDSCN3801.jpgDSCN3796.jpgDSCN3797.jpgDSCN3798.jpgDSCN3799.jpg
 








 
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