Tail-Stock and Jacob's Chuck release on Smart & Brown - Model A MK-I
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  1. #1
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    Default Tail-Stock and Jacob's Chuck release on Smart & Brown - Model A MK-I

    Hi everyone - my S&B A/MK-I arrived and she's sitting in my garage. I am waiting for the TECO VFD to arrive so I can wire up the machine.

    my tail-stock came with a Jacob chuck in it, for some reason it won't come out. I was hoping by retracting the tail-stock spindle all the way in, would engage the release of the chuck. But, I could not get it to release. Am I doing something wrong. Any suggestions to tricks to get this to release ?

    thanks much

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    I was able to solve this problem by using a right-sized wrench, placing it on the chuck's shaft neck and by applying a single gentle yet assertive tap.

    I realize this is not a permanent solution and need to educate myself as to what's causing the tool to not-eject. I wondered if the tail-stock's internal "pin" (is that what you call that) that's supposed to push the tool out, was not long enough to do its job. or whether the chuck'a shaft was not long enough. I doubt if it's the latter since I tried it with my live-center tool, and I am having the sample problem. I wonder if I need to mess with the tail-stock's internals.

    if anyone has any suggestions, please advise. Thanks.

    here are a few pictures.
    5.jpg 2.jpg 3.jpg

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    In most tailstocks the quill's leadscrew pushes out the taper.
    First, I'd check how shorter than necessary is (if you have a tool with the taper ending in a thread, you can thread in a headless screw sticking out and see at which position of the quill the tool is ejected), then I'd remove the screw and fix it by drilling the end press-fitting an extension.

    Paolo

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    I have a 1024 not a model A, but I think the tailstock situation is similar. Mine will eject drills or any other tooling that has a tang. It will not eject morse taper tooling without a tang. I don't like the idea of using a wrench or wedges etc, so I made an ejector tool that fits into the side slot of the tailstock barrel and allows the tooling to be ejected that way with just hand pressure. The tool needs to be shaped 'just' right so that it works, but it is just a filing job. A normal drift that you might use on a drill press will NOT work. The idea of using a screw in the back of the tool has merit, but a lot of morse taper tooling is hard so not easy.

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    I have a couple of dead centers without tangs that will not eject from the tailstock. I just put a small rare earth magnet (about 3/4" OD x 3/8" thick) on the end of the dead center to make it longer and it ejects just fine.

    Ted

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    Quote Originally Posted by talvare View Post
    I have a couple of dead centers without tangs that will not eject from the tailstock. I just put a small rare earth magnet (about 3/4" OD x 3/8" thick) on the end of the dead center to make it longer and it ejects just fine.

    Ted
    Magnets are generally rather fragile. I'm afraid that your solution wouldn't work great with anything well seated.

    Paolo

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    I agree that a magnet might be a bit risky. They tend to fracture with abrasive bits coming off, so I would be a bit wary of damage to the morse taper. The flat ejector tool I mentioned does work and it cannot cause any damage.

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    Make sure your taper is clean and burr free. Im guessing its short of ejecting as suggested so a screw to adjust the length is a good fix. Or the flat tool ejector billmac is suggesting. They do sell reamers to clean up the taper.

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    thank you everyone for the input.

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    I just weld on a tang if it doesn't have one. did two last weekend, used 309L GTAW.


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