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Voest DA 210 Lathe Collet Chuck question

alienturtle

Aluminum
Joined
Sep 7, 2018
Hello all. I have a voest da 210 lathe. I was looking through the manual and found an accessories page. It shows a collet chuck. The manual also shows it having a L0 nose with a metric 50? Taper inside. I doubt I will ever be able to find the actual collet chuck for it. Does anyone know if an aftermarket place sells something like this for it? Thanks for the help.PXL_20210103_231305976.jpgPXL_20210103_231228749.jpgPXL_20210103_231259554.jpgPXL_20210103_231247862.jpg
 
Hello all. I have a voest da 210 lathe. I was looking through the manual and found an accessories page. It shows a collet chuck. The manual also shows it having a L0 nose with a metric 50? Taper inside. I doubt I will ever be able to find the actual collet chuck for it. Does anyone know if an aftermarket place sells something like this for it? Thanks for the help.View attachment 309481View attachment 309483View attachment 309484View attachment 309485


LO has nothing to do with the spindle bore taper

It works exactly like a LO chuck

Hardinge Sjogren (or whoever bought that line from Hardinge) sell collet chucks up to at least 22J or 2 1/4 capacity. Probably least cost to get there is a flat back collet chuck and a LO back plate to suit the chuck (its a you-machine-it-to-fit).

Hardinge named them "Speed Chucks"

Here is a LO ready to roll with ONE 2J collet - not mine

https://www.ebay.com/i/233038906198...1291&msclkid=05ac803698b413f8a8efdfc4fddda385

good luck
 
Does anyone know if one of those 5c collet chucks will work with an L0. The chucks are 5 inch round and the mounting holes around 4 inch. I think the l0 threads are around 4 inch
 
Does anyone know if one of those 5c collet chucks will work with an L0. The chucks are 5 inch round and the mounting holes around 4 inch. I think the l0 threads are around 4 inch

As John said.. you'll need a "backplate". "Integral" L0 backed goods exist, but you don't have to care. Backplate works the same as far as the spindle knows.

You can add 5C to get access to cheaper collets, I have two for D1-3. Bolt circle is not a big deal, You rotate the parts to where there is space.

You can add ER system, I have that also for D1-3.

You/I/we can add just about anything you can affix to a backplate.

"A" taper family is the problematic one. It needs face-bolted, has no camlock studs behind it as D1 has nor rear draw-up as L0 has.

There are a LOT of used goods out there already mounted on an L0 backplate,
2J among the more common.

2J are very good all-around collets. Most of us who have BOTH prefer them over 5C.

Not a lot of time or money spent? Your lathe can be 2J collet-system ready.

You can always add more ... if the money doesn't run out!

"DAMHIKT!"

:D
 
thank you guys for all the help!

i think i want to go with a flat LO backplate (i think they call them partial finished?) and a 5c chuck setup. I have a co worker that has lots of 5c on hand.

I guess one of my original questions was does anyone make a collet closer system that sticks out the back for quick change?
 
thank you guys for all the help!

i think i want to go with a flat LO backplate (i think they call them partial finished?) and a 5c chuck setup. I have a co worker that has lots of 5c on hand.

I guess one of my original questions was does anyone make a collet closer system that sticks out the back for quick change?

It takes about the same amount of time to pull a "handwheel" and drawtube closer as to swap a nose-mount. Handwheel type closers need no linkage or torque reaction member as rear "lever" closer or front "loop" closers must have.

A handwheel closer is also dirt-cheap, and dirt-simple to DIY.

You have two ways to do the needful 5C closing taper at the nose:

A) Make a sleeve that fits the spindle's taper, even if it has to project forward to get large enough diameter to hold the collet of choice.

This is easy. It can be done right on the target lathe. It is HARD to get any TIR error into it for that very reason.

B) Make, or adapt onto/into a stock backplate, the same function as to a closing taper.

In either case.. make - or buy ready made, 5C is out there many stock lengths, already threaded - the draw TUBE. if ..the collet system is not OVERSIZE for the spindle bore.

Where it IS oversize, you would need a two-piece tube or a draw rod instead of a tube.

100% nose-mount collet sytems bypass all that and also leave the spindle bore fully open to pass rod and bar stock.

That's why I have no OTHER kind BUT 100% nose-mount. Most of my collet systems ARE larger than the spindle bore in their larger sizes.

All that said?

If your lathe's spindle bore can pass a stock 5C drawtube?

You should make yerself a "thimble" type closer to sit in the taper, and a handwheel. Cut and fit the drawtube from store-bought stock. Learn to single-point threads some other day.

Cheap, cheerful, they center the goods very, very well, can last a long time, can be repaired and adjusted... and can be a source of pride.

Lever and loop closers are for higher speed "production".

Wheel, key, wrench operated nose-art are slower - about in the middle for cycle speed.

A Hardinge/Sjogren "Speed" chuck? "Speedy" at putting it on or taking it off.

Waaay slower than loop or lever closers to cycle the work.

ER has good grip, VERY good TIR.. but they can be about the slowest to cycle. Best used to hold drills, taps, & such rather than stock.

Swings and roundabouts...
 
hey all...poking around looking up stuff on Voest lathes as i'm preparing to go through the apron...not a whole lot out there...when i got the thing 10 years ago i'd found a fellow that had restored one and put up 350+ images on his google image page...glad they were downloadable, as it's gone now...am attaching a pic from that archive of what is part of this thread...

cheers

cp
 

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...also i have a zip file of the whole archive if any Voest owners need some internal information...happy to post single pics or wetransfer it...
 








 
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