Webb/Whacheon WL-435 Lathe - Page 2
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  1. #21
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    Quote Originally Posted by thermite View Post
    Both go against common practice.
    You're absolutely right that it will be more difficult. I guess I am just trying to adopt some of Robin Renzetti's suggestions about placing the scales closest to the work area.

    YouTube



    Quote Originally Posted by thermite View Post
    - Apron side is a busy area. Very. Difficult to find good space for mounting and traverse. Back sides of lathes are usually less cluttered - even with a TA.

    - HS side of the cross is subject to greater risk of impact, coolant and chip erosion, dropped "stuff" - even crush interferences than TS side.
    2CW
    Yeah. All true.
    For sure it would be easier to mount it on the back of the saddle and back of the carriage.
    I don't have a taper attachment with this lathe, but might make or get one eventually, so I will want to mount it accordingly.

  2. #22
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    On my Webb/Whacheon lathe, a screw caps off that opening not a ball oiler.


    Quote Originally Posted by rpseguin View Post
    I need to get an push ball oiler nipple to replace a missing one on the cross slide.



    Iím not sure if itís a press fit or not.
    Hereís another one nearby on the same lathe.



    Iíd like to find PDF manuals and parts lists if I can.

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  4. #23
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    The quality of the WL-435 parts list and operatorís manual that I got with the machine leaves a little to be desired; itís just a spiral bound photocopy where the toner was obviously low and some pages are skewed a bit. Iím pretty sure they are the ones sold by Whacheon.

    Anybody have an actual original or higher quality PDF?




  5. #24
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    I linked the wrong video somehow...

    Here's Robin Renzetti's suggestions on DRO scale mounting.

    YouTube

  6. #25
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    I removed the headstock top cover and took some pictures of the gears/guts.
    The gears look in great condition and the oil is a nice color.








    The cover gasket seems fine:

  7. #26
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    The plastic oil flow sight window near the top of the headstock popped out.




    Iím thinking it was just pressed in and held in with a gasket. I still have the sight, so Iím going to use RTV to seal it back in.


  8. #27
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    Found an A2-6 4 jaw locally.

    As I got it:




    After ten minutes with Scotchbrite + elbow grease:



    Turns out itís a Kitagawa, so Iím happy about that!



    My toddler woke up from her nap, so I didnít get a chance to pull, clean and freshly grease the jaws and worm gears, but thatíll come.

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  10. #28
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    Once I get my power squared away at my house, Iíll get my rotary phase converter going and my machines wired up and running.
    I think this Webb/Whacheon is currently wired for 440V.
    Should be pretty straightforward to switch over to run on 220V-240V

    Whacheon WL-435 wiring diagram on my lathe.



    My concern is the two empty sockets in this picture:


    Closer in:

  11. #29
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    My pinion gear has a broken tooth:




    Iím not sure how to take the apron off and the procedure/order of operations.

    The operators manual doesnít say anything, of course, and the parts list isnít detailed enough. Anybody have a maintenance manual for a Whacheon WL-435?

    Suggestions/guidance/step by step would be appreciated.

    Iím thinking, Iíll probably have to remove the bed bracket, then the leadscrew and feed rod and control/switch rod.



    And then cribbing under the apron to keep it from falling and then I think itís just these 4 socket cap screws on the carriage:



    Are there any bolts/socket cap screws under the cross slide?

    Should I remove the cross slide anyway for cleaning/maintenance?


    Suggestions on disassembly of the apron, pinion gear replacement and reassembly?

    I plan on taking lots of pictures of everything along the way, for my own reference.

  12. #30
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    Have you had trouble leveling your lathe? Mine seems to have a twist and I can't get it out with the leveling screws as the castings are so stiff. I ended up bolting the tailstock end to large piece of 3x3 tubing to spread the feet further apart to get it twisted flat.

    Does anyone know if the headstock can be rotated? When level to within one graduation on a .0005/10" level from end to end it turns a taper, .002" per 6". Even with the modification to the tailstock end I can't seem to get it to turn straight and now I'm wondering if someone adjusted the headstock to compensate for the bed twist.

  13. #31
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    Wow!
    That sounds unusual and bad.

    I havenít gotten to leveling my lathe yet.
    Iím sure headstocks can be shimmed and tweaked, but there are many far more knowledgeable people here who can clarify.
    I hope youíre able to get that worked out.
    Please post status/progress again.


    Quote Originally Posted by Nmbmxer View Post
    Have you had trouble leveling your lathe? Mine seems to have a twist and I can't get it out with the leveling screws as the castings are so stiff. I ended up bolting the tailstock end to large piece of 3x3 tubing to spread the feet further apart to get it twisted flat.

    Does anyone know if the headstock can be rotated? When level to within one graduation on a .0005/10" level from end to end it turns a taper, .002" per 6". Even with the modification to the tailstock end I can't seem to get it to turn straight and now I'm wondering if someone adjusted the headstock to compensate for the bed twist.



    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

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  15. #32
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    Quote Originally Posted by Nmbmxer View Post
    Have you had trouble leveling your lathe? Mine seems to have a twist and I can't get it out with the leveling screws as the castings are so stiff.
    How are you measuring the twist?

  16. #33
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    Quote Originally Posted by triumph406 View Post
    How are you measuring the twist?
    .0005/10” level on the top of compound.

    The previous (original) owner complained about it turning a taper, I figured it hadn’t been leveled properly...

  17. #34
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    Quote Originally Posted by rpseguin View Post
    Wow!
    That sounds unusual and bad.

    I havenít gotten to leveling my lathe yet.
    Iím sure headstocks can be shimmed and tweaked, but there are many far more knowledgeable people here who can clarify.
    I hope youíre able to get that worked out.
    Please post status/progress again.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    There are dozens of threads on this site about lathe leveling/setup.
    Start with s realistic tolerance based on your actual need, NOT zero.
    Learn what the proper sequence of actions are, including letting the castings ďsettleĒ.
    Stick to the sequence, 150 years of applied knowledge is at your fingertips here, go study.
    Good luck!

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  19. #35
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    Default Webb/Whacheon WL-435 Lathe

    Quote Originally Posted by cyanidekid View Post
    There are dozens of threads on this site about lathe leveling/setup.
    Start with s realistic tolerance based on your actual need, NOT zero.
    Learn what the proper sequence of actions are, including letting the castings ďsettleĒ.
    Stick to the sequence, 150 years of applied knowledge is at your fingertips here, go study.
    Good luck!
    Thanks!
    I have leveled just a couple of lathes, so I know I still have so much to learn.
    I was mostly just saying that I havenít gotten around to leveling my Webb yet, since Iíve been super busy.
    Iíll definitely get around to it next month though.

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  21. #36
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    Hey rp was seconding your comments there! mostly responding to Nmbmxer but yes, good luck!

    hey, wasn’t there a post about “ croudshareing” test gear like spindle taper test bars? Seem to recall it went wildly off the rails, not too surprising on here, but if we could keep it to that one item (at first), it seems to have promise, no? Low potential for damage, often onetime use, easy to ship??

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  23. #37
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    Quote Originally Posted by Nmbmxer View Post
    .0005/10Ē level on the top of compound.

    The previous (original) owner complained about it turning a taper, I figured it hadnít been leveled properly...
    You want to put the level across the crown of the front/back ways. Check for any dings that might hold up the level. Stone those of if required.

  24. #38
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    Quote Originally Posted by cyanidekid View Post
    hey, wasnít there a post about ď croudshareingĒ test gear like spindle taper test bars? Seem to recall it went wildly off the rails, not too surprising on here, but if we could keep it to that one item (at first), it seems to have promise, no? Low potential for damage, often onetime use, easy to ship??
    I like that idea!
    What types are you thinking?

  25. #39
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    Quote Originally Posted by Nmbmxer View Post
    .0005/10Ē level on the top of compound.

    The previous (original) owner complained about it turning a taper, I figured it hadnít been leveled properly...
    Nmbmxer, what model do you have? Whacheon (Webb) WL-435?

    Do you have a 5C setup?
    If so, what collet closer do you have and what length draw tube?

    Thanks!

  26. #40
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    Quote Originally Posted by rpseguin View Post
    Nmbmxer, what model do you have? Whacheon (Webb) WL-435?

    Do you have a 5C setup?
    If so, what collet closer do you have and what length draw tube?

    Thanks!
    Its a WL-435, the same as yours. I don’t have a collet setup. I have a front mounted 5c closer I could fit but I probably won’t. I was going to make a 5.5mt to 5c adapter out of some 1144 I have when the need arose. My adjust tru repeats very well so a collet wouldn’t offer many advantages, I’m not sure that a 5c would be that useful on a 17” lathe.

    I have a 12” 3 jaw that someone messed up the A1 mount on that needs fixing, a 10” 4 jaw that needs stiff jaws fixed, and a 6” adjust tru mounted to a A2-6 back plate. I use the little chuck the most as the 10” chuck won’t grab stock under 1”.

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