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Weiler Matador Headstock assembly!!!! HELP PLEASE!!!!

darthmuller

Plastic
Joined
Jul 17, 2012
Location
South Africa
To anyone out there that can possibly clear up a mystery in regards
to the 80X3 O-Ring on the spindle assembly.

I can see the O-ring in the Weiler drawing, but cannot understand its function? Can someone please explain to me the function of this O-ring and its importance?

The pulley which is pinned to a keyway also has about 3mm sideways movement? It is not loose, but the assembly which it pins onto underneath has sideways play. The below unit has gears and a spline which engages and disengages.

Thank you
 
OK

After spending about 8 solid hour over a period of 2days I can now say: "The Weiler Matador headstock is not for the faint at heart".
It is very tricky to put together and very frustrating. Require two people to do and nimble fingers.

If any one ever needs some help in the future I could possibly help in this department. As I have stripped and assemble the headstock about 15 times, each time learning something new.

As for the mystery O-Ring, still not sure what it actually does sitting below the drive pulley, but it is there now just as the drawing indicates.

Good luck changing belts on this machine, I would recommend using those multi link belts to totally avoid stripping this headstock.
 
Changing Matador and Condor drive belts is not for the faint hearted.

Getting the spindle out is relatively easy, however the center drive pulley is a bit tricky if it’s gummed in after many years of use and may have to be pressed off the inner gear shaft. Great care should be taken when pressing these apart so not to damage the very thin headstock sections that act as an oil trap on the front and rear of this assembly.

As for the O'ring, I assume you are referring to item 27 on the enclosed drawing, it's so long ago I changed the belts I can't remember what this is, or what it does.

The drive belts need to be a matched pair to avoid serious vibration at very high speeds, a multi link belt is really not suitable.

All the best Adrian.
 

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OK, I now understand what the O-Ring is for, thank you.

Now, who has the section (english) from the manual that explains the correct procedure for adjusting the bearings on the spindle?

I have a .pdf copy of the manual, but all in german. And google 'translate just cannot do technical translations, completely useless.
 
Do a search on PM
Its discussed here before
BTW a google search with "practical machinist" in the searchwords gets better results as the searchfunction on this board

Peter from holland
 
As Peter says most Weiler topics have been covered on the forum and a search on PM or Google usually flags them.

Having done this task several times over the years I have honed a simple method which may be of interest to you and others on the forum.

First thing is to clean and paint a reference line on the back gear ring and bearing adjusting ring (items 32 & 9) as shown.
It is important to have a reference, it’s a very fine adjustment and you need to know how much you have tightened the bearing.
I also slack off the spindle drive belts, which aids the adjustment.

Adjust the rear bearing first by loosening the collar (5) and then slowly tightening it until there is no end play.
You can clock the spindle or simple listen for when there is no lateral knock. The manual say there should be 0.003-4mm end play,
however I run mine with zero end play and have never had a problem with overheating.

This can checked by being able to rotate ring 19 by hand, if this can be rotated then ok, if not the adjustment is too tight.

Now adjust the front bearing by loosening the locking ring 12 to allow clearance. Using the painted marks as a reference, tighten ring 9 to adjust the bearing clearance.

After recently fitting new bearings I tighten it one tooth of the marked gear assembly at a time, using a tube on the C spanner for leverage and not a mallet. Run the lathe for several minuets check the clearance and repeat the procedure.

I run my lathe with 0.004mm clearance which is enough to maintain a film of grease on the rollers.
At full speed for 10 minuets it only slightly warms the bearing. It is important not to over tighten or over grease this bearing, it will get very hot at high speed and be expensive to replace.


All the best Adrian.
 

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Adrians explanation says it all IMHO
I would only ad that after some running time I always found the endplay to be somewhat less than originaly adjusted for
So the 0.004mm mentioned by Adrian is still valid as in time it will increase a bit which is good A bit less is no problem
Also measuring the endplay is a bit of interpretation of your reading too Its not that absolute as measuring a ground bar
Pushing the spindle a bit to hard makes it bend and thats sooner as one might think You also have the tolerances of inner race outerrace and rollers influence the readings somehow

Peter from holland
 
Hi Peter

As you say with the bearings greased up it’s difficult to get accurate micron measurements on these clearances.
Better to air on the side of being slightly loose than too tight.

All the best Adrian.
 
Adrian

I fully understand your method of adjusting the rear thrust bearings. But, I am not understanding the function of the adjustment ring at the main bearing? To my knowledge this is a straight roller bearing, what will the front ring adjust?

The schaublin has a special adjustable main bearing, but the weiler does not? Please clarify what happens on the Matador main bearing.

Your help is greatly appreciated as always.
 
Darthmuller,

The spindle has a very slight taper where the inner race of the roller bearing seats. The inner race of the bearing is tapered to match the spindle taper. The adjustment of radial clearance is achieved by the nut pushing the inner race further up the spindle thus expanding it. These bearings when adjusted correctly are very long lived. Quite a few lathe manufacturers besides Weiler use them, one I am familiar with is TOS.

Peter
 
Enclosed is a data sheet for the front bearing.
Having just put all new headstock bearings on my lathe after 40+ years of hard work,
I can say treat this bearing with the greatest respect.
This one bearing cost me about £250 and that's a discounted price, list is well over £300 !! in the UK.

All the best Adrian.
 

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Enclosed is a data sheet for the front bearing.
Having just put all new headstock bearings on my lathe after 40+ years of hard work,
I can say treat this bearing with the greatest respect.
This one bearing cost me about £250 and that's a discounted price, list is well over £300 !! in the UK.

All the best Adrian.

Adrian

Well that is some super useful info, I did not know the spindle had a taper. I is all very clear to me know.

I can now tackle the bearing preload adjustments with my eyes open.

Regards
Clint
 








 
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