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Spam-cano, I think.

Yeah the good charge amps are a little expensive. So are the good accelerometers! I'm not in a rush, figure I'll wait patiently until a good deal comes along. Some of the better charge amps have...

Did you get around to trying out your vibration analysis yet? I just snagged a nice Hofmann accelerometer for cheap, but still need to pick up a charge amp for it.

I have a couple used sets (Mitutoyo and Webber) and had them checked by a cal lab, they've always been fine for what I've had to do. I've got a couple beater sets that I use freely in the shop too....

This fellow (O.P.) sounds like he's pretty green in terms of D1 tapers. It is a good idea to clarify that the .002" clearance mentioned is to be between the mating faces, NOT in the taper itself. So...

I think spammers mainline it. Direct injection, sort of like a diesel. :D

Just don't try sending a letter via regular mail if it's important that it get there quick. Very hit or miss still.

They're angular contact bearings, so it's normal for them to be somewhat loose with no preload applied. And yes they will slide in one direction a bit, that side has almost no lip on many angular...

Well that's different. Try asking your local community/vo-tech college. They might have something already whipped up. When you said "putting together training materials" I think we all assumed you...

I wouldn't justify passing on it because of a small amount of work that only comes a couple times a year. I would send that little bit of work out to a sub and get the machine you will enjoy using...

There may be, but why not just write them yourself? If it's to be training type material to be used for your employees, that is probably the best bet anyway. That's pretty basic stuff.

Yes, it was already mentioned. It involves putting a vibrometer or something similar on the spindle and tapping the spindle with a glorified hammer (to simplify it) and checking each individual piece...

First place I'd look is Supergrit website. If they don't stock it on the shelf, I'm sure they can get what you're looking for, and they have decent prices.

As far as using hammers on a bearing and whether or not one should be worried about it if it's a rubber mallet - there are differing degrees of rubber mallet hardness and better safe than sorry IMO....

Totally opened yourself up to a "Yer momma told me" on that one. :D

Jayzus. Manual lathe makers are dying out? You don't say. Never would have guessed. It's only been happening for the last 30 or 40 years. :D

Probably because they stopped making them in the '60's. The Compacs from the same time period that they were rebranded from probably can no longer be repaired either.

The solder blob anecdote may...

I had a quick glance earlier and was mistakenly thinking that you were going to be pressing on the face where the rollers ran when I recommended aluminum or brass. Now that I've reread and looked at...

BesTest are pretty damn good indicators too. I'd say on par with Federal. At least the old ones... Not sure how the modern stuff is, mine are all old. Compac, Interapid, Alina, Tesa, Mahr, all are...

I'm assuming they want a tool used that just slips into the bore by a couple thousandths but catches on the lip once it's in there. I'd use a little heat if you can but don't worry about the freezer....

Ouch! Well I can say if I would have seen that one, we may have been in competition. But it wasn't me! I swear! :)

Anyway, at this point I think I have over 50 QC30 holders, so I will probably not...

An audible edge finder IS a regular edge finder... With a flat ground on the touch-off diameter.

I like the lever, it's good for slipping the clutch when you need a very slow speed, say using a large HSS cutter to cut spotfaces, etc. Also for jogging the spindle around while indexing inserts in...

Where is the confusion? A plated wheel is done once the layer of grit dulls and you can't dress it. Once it wears out you'll need to get it stripped and replated or get a new one. A resin bonded...

Induction hardening will be fine. Flame hardening will also work. Both will probably cause deformation. Straighten the bar afterward if necessary. Many hardening shops can do this if you can't.