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Hardinge best?

sanfz

Aluminum
Joined
Oct 28, 2002
Location
Columbus, Ohio 423212 USA
Not to open a small hornet's nest but... is
the toolroom hardinge lathe better than a schaublin 102 and both better than a myford super 7? I have never seen any of them let alone run them. Mark
 
Which toolroom Hardinge lathe...the DV 59 or the HLV-H ? And which Schaublin 102...the N, the N-NM and which style 102...the older or newer style ? (very different animals)

Having said/asked that, any Hardinge or Schaublin were built to more exacting tolerances and should likely be more accurate* than any Myford lathe.


*here again, the term "better" needs qualifing...do you mean acccuracy, reliability, ease of use/ergonomics... ??
 
Grrr. Don't understate a Myford's ability. A good condition Super 7 can do amazingly accurate work and has much greater versatility than either of the others. Granted, it's a smaller lathe than a Hardinge and not as quick with threading, but it's also a heck (!) of a lot cheaper- new or used. I still think the best lathe for the money in the 11" swing category is a Colchester Chipmaster. IMHO, Stan.
 
Better meaning more accurate, a better surface finish (all tooling and feeds equiv.)
and a better feel to operate.
Let's try HLV-H and older style 102.
Also how well do these machines hold up over time with equiv. use? Are older Myfords
as durable as the others?
 
Jim K writes: Ever heard of a South Bend?

Well yes I have. I own a very nice and well tooled 10L South Bend. A very nice machine but the hardinge HLVH is in an entirely different league. The HLVH will last longer, remove more metal faster, and give superior finishes.

You realloy can't compare any of the South Bends to an HLVH. I ran an HLVH for about a year and my 10L would in no way be able to come close to keeping up. There was also a 16 inch SB in the same shop.

The South Bends are cheaper and offer a greater center to center distance. Excellent machines provided they meet your needs for sure. I"ll have my 10L for many more years for sure.

Strictly my own opinion based on experience running both machines.

Mark
 
Once again it depends critically on which South Bend. A South Bend 10K is a joke, whereas some other SB's are acceptable machines if in good condition.
 
When I worked in San Diego for three years at a Defcon, I ran a Hardinge toolroom lathe(don't remember which model) almost every day. That lathe, was by a huge margin the best lathe I have ever had the pleasure to use. I used lathes of several different types, from a tiny Unimat SL, six and twelve inch Atlas' Hardinge chuckers, Acraturns, Mori Seiki's and a massive 27 foot long Summit. I'll take that Hardinge. Smooth, quiet, turn a couple knobs, inch threads, engage another, metric threads. To make threading even easier, you have that slick knockout clutch and quick action compound.
Anyway, that's just my opinion.
Greg B.
 
Dear Morsetaper 2,

It is obvious that you are going through "The Hardinge Rush".

The South Bend makes noise. the Hardinge doesn't.

The Hardinge is smooth as hell, older South Bend's aren't apt to be.

The Hardinge is the Flashy Las Vegas Blende Girl, The South Bend is the Girl Next Door.

Yeah, a guy can get excited. I know the feeling.

Only one thing. I apprenticed at The National Bureau of Standards (That is NIST now, just down the street from you in Gaithersburg)

I ran the HLV-H 'till I got tired of it. It was our everyday lathe.

When I went into business for myself, my NBS ticket would get me into The Univesity of Maryland shops when things got slow and I had to support a wife and daughter.

I worked at the Physics Department Shop and at The Wind Tunnel Shop. I bought the Hauser No 5 jig borer out out of the shop you worked at. (Space Science).

Keep your South Bend, Bub!

Tha Hardinge HLV-H is no good at slow speeds. In Low Motor, you are apt to stall the motor if you are working steel at sensible speeds in a three or four jaw chuck.

There are no Back Gears on That Thing.

Forget about short, skinny pieces between centers. There is too much tailstock interferance to allow room for the carriage to take the turning cut without extending the tailstock spindle way out too far for good lathe practice.

If you have a contract to turn and thread complex aerospace parts on a production basis, go ahead and invest in the Hardinge Lathe, there are few better lathes for the work than that

If you want a lathe for the Home Shop, stick with the Good Ole South Bend.

There is no reason to use a Ferrari to make a milk run to the 7-11.

There is no reason to use a Hardinge HLV-H for Home Shop Work.

Don't impoverish your family because you are fascinated by the Blonde Girl you saw at The University of Maryland.

I dated her for four years, she ain't the girl you want to have meet the folks.

I have run the Hardinge, I have run the South Bend. I will turn out the same lathe work to the same tolerances and the same finishes on either machine.

I am a Machinsit

"I'll Take Your Bet, You're Gonna regret.

I'm The Best There's Ever Been!"

Jim Kizale
 
Which is best depends entirely on the kind of work you`ll be doing 95 % of your time.
An hlv or a 102 vm (or n-vm) are excellent machines for small fiddly stuff and lots of in and outside threading.

However , these machines are easily overasked when doing some bigger work , while the `trouble` of an occasional smal job on a bigger machine isn`t worth having either sitting in a corner waiting for that small job.

IMHO a hlv or a 102 are verry nice to have around , not as the only lathe to have....

Lambert
 
could D Thomas please clarify how the newer 102s are different from the older version.
 
These discussions are normally somewhat unproductive, because of the lack of definition of what constitutes "good." For the kind of hobby work I do, I've never needed anything over an 11" swing and have room for nothing larger in the shop, so that pins down one parameter. I can't addrress the question of the Shaublin or Myford since I haven't run them.

Like Mark, I have a South Bend 10L toolroom lathe with all the accessories. I also bought an ex-NIST HLV-H almost three years ago, and the SB sits mostly unused in the garage now. JimK is entitled to his opinion, as am I, and there are a couple of his points which deserve clarification for the record.

*If* you are comparing a SB 10L to an HLV-H, then it just slightly stretches the bounds of credibility to assert that one can just as easily get the same surface finish with a plain bearing spindle whose clearance specification is .001" with a broomstick handle setup, versus a guaranteed max .000025" runout on the HLV-H angular contact bearing spindle. Combine that with the vibration of all those straight cut gears in the SB carriage drive introducing interesting surface patterns on the workpiece, and you begin to realize why Hardinge uses the low speed DC motor carriage drive. It's sort of of nice to see each cut come out looking like a mirror. I can get reasonable finish and accuracy with the 10L too, but it takes more time and fiddling to do it.

Secondly, I don't know why anyone in their right mind wouldn't have a VFD (on any lathe), programmed for constant speed. In my case it was the cheapest way to get 460v 3 phase from the 120/240 single phase home service, and cost all of $150 including the transformer. The variable speed was a bonus. On occasion I've run the HLV-H at 30 rpm with more than enough power for turning stainless steel...so much for the lack of back gear claim, which I hear repeated a lot. A back gear is certainly essential for the SB, with the extremely operator-intensive threading procedure required of it.

As for the tailstock, the definition of "extending the tailstock spindle way out too far for good lathe practice" is a matter of opinion and depends on the tailstock size and design. The HLV-H tailstock is more rigid at its furthest extension than my 10L is at *zero* extension. The fact that the 10L tailstock can be picked up with one hand while the HLV takes two men and a small boy does make a difference here, and the rigidity of the HLV bed versus the flexible SB double rail design has a bearing on it as well.

Finally, with respect to the issue of impoverishing one's family, with patience the older HLV-Hs can be found for a reasonable price. Mine was $4k on ebay, which I had to augment by $250 for shipping to Washington DC from Tennessee. That's certainly more than a SB under most conditions (though I have seen 10Ls go for more than that on the 'bay) but simply represents the result of having the discipline and permissive family financial situation to put $75 a month for almost five years into a savings account. Some folks spend that kind of money on beer and cigarettes, I chose to save up for an HLV-H. :)

As I mentioned, these discussions are generally pointless because of the apples and oranges comparison problem. I've had the 10L for 25 years and enjoyed it tremendously, but it simply doesn't compare to the pleasure I get in doing *anything* on the Hardinge. My wife often remarks about the silly grin on my face when I'm making chips on it, but it's no temporary infatuation - it's been the same ever since I first ran one in 1970. In the final analysis, "you pays your money and takes your choice".

Best wishes,
Mike
 
We've got 5 HLV-Hs at work that are in varying states of condition. last week during lunch I had to knock out a quick G-Job. In the oldest one I was taking .100 facing cuts in 4140TG&P at 35-RC. From 3.500" down to .357" at the same RPM( 850 ) all the way throught the cut. No power feed, all by hand. If they ever scrap them out, the line to grab one of 'em starts right behind me. If somebody gave me a SOuth Bend, fine I'd take one. But the spindle bore is to small and the threaded on chucks suck in my humble opinion
 
Dear Morsetaper 2,

It is obvious that you are going through "The Hardinge Rush".

The South Bend makes noise. the Hardinge doesn't.

The Hardinge is smooth as hell, older South Bend's aren't apt to be.

The Hardinge is the Flashy Las Vegas Blende Girl, The South Bend is the Girl Next Door.

Yeah, a guy can get excited. I know the feeling.

Only one thing. I apprenticed at The National Bureau of Standards (That is NIST now, just down the street from you in Gaithersburg)

I ran the HLV-H 'till I got tired of it. It was our everyday lathe.

When I went into business for myself, my NBS ticket would get me into The Univesity of Maryland shops when things got slow and I had to support a wife and daughter.

I worked at the Physics Department Shop and at The Wind Tunnel Shop. I bought the Hauser No 5 jig borer out out of the shop you worked at. (Space Science).

Keep your South Bend, Bub!

Tha Hardinge HLV-H is no good at slow speeds. In Low Motor, you are apt to stall the motor if you are working steel at sensible speeds in a three or four jaw chuck.

There are no Back Gears on That Thing.

Forget about short, skinny pieces between centers. There is too much tailstock interferance to allow room for the carriage to take the turning cut without extending the tailstock spindle way out too far for good lathe practice.

If you have a contract to turn and thread complex aerospace parts on a production basis, go ahead and invest in the Hardinge Lathe, there are few better lathes for the work than that

If you want a lathe for the Home Shop, stick with the Good Ole South Bend.

There is no reason to use a Ferrari to make a milk run to the 7-11.

There is no reason to use a Hardinge HLV-H for Home Shop Work.

Don't impoverish your family because you are fascinated by the Blonde Girl you saw at The University of Maryland.

I dated her for four years, she ain't the girl you want to have meet the folks.

I have run the Hardinge, I have run the South Bend. I will turn out the same lathe work to the same tolerances and the same finishes on either machine.

I am a Machinsit

"I'll Take Your Bet, You're Gonna regret.

I'm The Best There's Ever Been!"

Jim Kizale
That Hardinge is going to need a whole lot more shop time when she gets bitter...
 
I'll just drop this as an idea.

Find a Schaublin 150 (or a 135, for less swing), and you will likely be not that interested in the Hardinge afterwards.
The Hardinge HLV-H always seems to me to have been a more specialized tool, and if the things it is good at are the ones you need it for, they are easy enough to find, unlike the suggestion above. I know where one 150 is, still in use, and it's stable mate was picked up by a PM Member who outbid me by not very much, a while back, so they are around. Just thin on the ground.

I won't drop my Myford S7 off at the scrap dealer for some time yet, though. Just sayin'.

Never ran a Chipmaster, but ran enough Colchester Master 2500's to like them enough to buy one.
 
Myford = very expensive self-important Atlas 9" machine.

HLVH max diameter through spindle: 1.25 inch
SB 10L max diameter through spindle: 1.375 inch
 
Myford = very expensive self-important Atlas 9" machine.

HLVH max diameter through spindle: 1.25 inch
SB 10L max diameter through spindle: 1.375 inch

It wasn't always very expensive, and when it was designed, there was nothing of it's class available yet that was in the range of a home shop guy.
They sure jumped the shark in their last decade though!
I would suggest that you have not spent much time using either, to be comparing them like that!

And comparisons to an Atlas, about the only part of the comparison that fits, is that it had flat T shaped ways, otherwise it was in no way the same kind of junk that Atlas was flogging. I had an Atlas 12" given to me, and it was far better than the dodgy 10" a friend had owned, but it still got given away to someone that had nothing, as it was better than that. The guy with the 10" bought a Rockwell 10" machine from me and was really happy with that.
 
I've owned and used a number of SB machines, a 9" atlas, and run an HLVH here at work. Never won enough lotto money to consider buying a myford. But from the looks of 'em, just put a handwheel on the end of an atlas leadscrew, same machine in a nutshell.
 
I've owned and used a number of SB machines, a 9" atlas, and run an HLVH here at work. Never won enough lotto money to consider buying a myford. But from the looks of 'em, just put a handwheel on the end of an atlas leadscrew, same machine in a nutshell.
Well, I'm on my second Super-7, after having a ML-7 prior, and you are talking outta you behind, Jim. Might be worth sticking to what you know, rather than expressing what you think, eh? Without having run one, you won't even know, though.

I've never won any Lotto money either, but I have still managed to tool mine up pretty well.

And I well recall getting a written price quote from South Bend on a 1930's level tech 9", in the early 1980's, that was well over half my yearly income at that point, which was pretty much how they ended up tanked before Myford went the same way. They both priced themselves into Oblivion, in the later years, but that did not really drag used prices up to the same levels, either.

Up until the last few years when the prices went well in to the 'stupid' range, a new Myford was pretty affordable, though never exactly cheap. Once they priced them up well in to the same range as a Hardinge clone or a very nice used actual Hardinge, they were grossly overpriced for what you got, but were never at the low level of the quality, of the small Atlas machines.

As I recall, Wieler made a flat bed machine too. Another POS, in your view, too, I suppose?
 
One thing about the Hardinge is changing gears inside the gear box cover. Metric or English gear changes take a long time.
That is if your English thread is not one of the built-in choices on the chart. And metric always requires a change if the add-on box is used.
 








 
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