Chambering rpm

Have found a good deal through a friend. The slowest spindle speed is 70 is this going to slow enough to chamber?

I chamber at 70. Mike

Well, I chamber at a faster speed. I use a barrel flush system, and do most of the work at 200rpms, but when I approach the final .050 or so, I kick it to 300rpms. Reason, I like a faster surface speed on the throat area. I use Pacific's reamers which are M42. Never had a problem.

I too use a muzzle flush system. And most of my reamers are also PTG (the best). Got over 100 in the collection.

190 RPM for the belted magnums and 30-06 size.

300 RPM for 223 sized.

Some of the biggies like 500 Jeffery and 505 Gibbs I run at 115 or 70, depends on how the reamer is cutting.

A proper muzzle flush system has several advantages:

Better finish

Less wear on reamers

Faster chambering time

The reamer is cutting instead of tearing or scraping

Rotary union below:



The other end:

Thanks for replies...the lathe will be on its way next day or two...not a grizzly but looks and has same specs as grizzly G9036
http://www.grizzly.com/products/item.cfm?ItemNumber=G9036

I chambered a 358-404 today. This is a 404 Jeffery case (Norma) necked to 358 and blown out to a 30 degree shoulder and maximum powder capacity. Barrel is 4140. Started at 190 RPM, after the shoulder of the reamer entered the barrel, I bumped it up to 300 RPM. Took less than 10 minutes for the actual chambering.

Of course, this is with the muzzle flush system. Don't dare try this with the old "brush & wipe" method.

And I do not know why the photos are "red X's". Server must be down.

John
How hard is it to make adapter for flushing system or better off getting one from gtr tooling?
I would think it would make a good project to learn on new lathe.
Can you just tap into the coolant system on the lathe?

John the pic's look fine here.

McD, I'll comment on your question for Mr. Ricks regarding the adapter for the flush system. He may or may not agree, but for the money, Tannel's adapter is a good deal. It's simple enough to replicate though, it's your choice. As far as tapping into the coolant system of your lathe, I don't believe this is what you want to do, because the cutting fluid ratio is quite different using the barrel flush system, much more concentrated than normal coolant. I simply use a 5 gallon bucket as a "tank" that has the pump in it, and a similar catch pan that Rick's shows to return the fluid back to the bucket. A system of itself, for this only use. It really is the only way to chamber in my opinion, not just faster, but better.

Tanner's system is OK to learn on and it is cheap.

However, it is not strudy enough for heavy use nor large enough for the wide variety of barrels I chamber.

My unit will take up to a 1.350" diameter barrel, has adapters for piping through the headstock when using a steady rest, is quick to install and does not leak. Plus it will not marr the barrel finish.

I use a separate 10 gallon sump with a special mix of high quality water soluble oil with chlorinated extreme pressure additives. The standard mix ratio is 1 part soluble oil to 20 parts water, but I use 1 part soluble oil to 1 part water. Some folks use special witch's brews for their muzzle flush systems. Tanner sells a brew if you want something different. Some of the brews have too much chlorinated additives and you have to wear a respirator when chambering!!! Hovever, a heavy mix of high quality oil as I use works fine. I have heard of using Dextron II and MolyDee mix, but have not tried it yet. Maybe next time I drain & flush the sump.

You need a sump with a centrifugal pump so you can throttle the discharge, to adjust the flow through the barrel so you will not paint the shop with coolant. And I have a pump switch mounted just above the lathe, on a shelf, so I can turn the pump off when withdrawing the reamer. The $100 sump with pump that Enco sells is ideal. Holds 10 gallons.

The muzzle flush system flushes out the chips, keeps the reamer cool, provides a better finish, and allows fast chambering. If you are into chambering barrels as a business as I am, you cannot aford to not use a muzzle flush.

There are a few tricks to learn, like:

How to back out the reamer a little, without shutting the pump off, to clear chips.

How to modify the reamer bushing screw to allow high rate of flow.

Types of reamers to use. Pilot bushing types only, with the screw retainer, and flutes extending fully under the bushing. And you need full sets of bushing for each bore size so you can fit a snug bushing to the bore.

How to start the reamer without work handening the barrel.

How to advance the reamer to avoid work hardening.

And a few other tricks. Most folks go too slow with feeds & speed.


Try it, you will never go back to "wipe and brush". I even have adapters made up for use when chambering loading dies.

[This message has been edited by John Ricks (edited 12-10-2003).]

[This message has been edited by John Ricks (edited 12-10-2003).]

John;

How DO you start a reamer without work hardening the metal or advance the reamer without doing the same???????

The answers to the tricks of the trade would be a very interesting book to for you to write or to include in this forum. I need this information as do a lot of other newbe/wannabe gunsmiths, I'll wager.

One question...How did you make your barrel adapter fluid proof, I can't see inside the adapter. I ask because I am in the process of setting up for Gre-Tans system or similar system and yours looks very good. I have several Rem700 and Sav110 actions waiting for barrels and barrels waiting for chambering but won't start the process untill the fluid through the barrel setup is completed.

Thanks and have a very Merry Christmas and excellent New Year...To All.

GreenWillyPeter at your service. Remember...