Surface Hardening Hammers & Sears?

lawndart · Oct 20, 2006

Question for my estemed professors on this board. After doing a trigger job on, say, a Ruger 10-22 or AR-15, does it make sense to get the torch and Kasenit out and harden the parts? I'm thinking (sorry, you are correct, I should know better) that this might keep the softer internal metal uncovered from wearing away so quickly.
Thanks for the input.

LD

Reverend Recoil · Oct 20, 2006

The Ruger parts that I have honed appear to be made of through hardened alloy steel. No heat treatment or surface hardening was needed. I would expect the AR-15 parts to be of similar material.

J. Randall · Oct 20, 2006

I would not use Kasenite on any modern triggers, now something that I knew was low carbon, and I knew I had gone through the case into soft metal, I would give it a try. James

GGaskill · Oct 20, 2006

It is possible that the trigger surfaces were only surface hardened. I think a couple of my new Marlins were done that way as they would not hold engagement after they were stoned. Probably a trick inspired by lawyers to prevent home trigger jobs.

As far as the Ruger is concerned, I don't know. For an AR, buy a Jewel trigger.

[ 10-20-2006, 12:54 PM: Message edited by: GGaskill ]

lawndart · Oct 21, 2006

Thanks for the ideas. It just occured to me that those parts are relatively cheap to aquire. I think I'll cut into the interior on a few and try the file test.

I hate to admit that I have never used a Jewel trigger of any sort. The closest I have come to a Jewel trigger in an AR was reading the article in Precision Shooting several years ago. If I run into someone that has one, I'll cedrtainly give it a twirl around the dance floor (so to speak).

LD

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Surface Hardening Hammers & Sears?

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