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Bead Blast Cabinets

Reelmaster

Plastic
Joined
Mar 14, 2003
Location
Australia
Hi Guy's All things being equal if I fit the Ceramic Nozzle that came with the unit with the smallest orrifice. will this give me the Best Performance & better results or should the bigger one be used ??? I fiqure there must be a trade off somewhere???? it is the style offered by Grizzly etc & has A Big compressor to supply air with plenty of reserve & is set at 95 lb.

any advise how to get the job done better & quicker, (I'm using Glass Beads very fine). should a change of this medium to a courser grade be considered.???

Many Thanks in Advance.

Best Regards. Jack.
 
Hi Guy's All things being equal if I fit the Ceramic Nozzle that came with the unit with the smallest orrifice. will this give me the Best Performance & better results or should the bigger one be used ??? I fiqure there must be a trade off somewhere???? it is the style offered by Grizzly etc & has A Big compressor to supply air with plenty of reserve & is set at 95 lb.

any advise how to get the job done better & quicker, (I'm using Glass Beads very fine). should a change of this medium to a courser grade be considered.???

Many Thanks in Advance.

Best Regards. Jack.
 
Hi Guy's All things being equal if I fit the Ceramic Nozzle that came with the unit with the smallest orrifice. will this give me the Best Performance & better results or should the bigger one be used ??? I fiqure there must be a trade off somewhere???? it is the style offered by Grizzly etc & has A Big compressor to supply air with plenty of reserve & is set at 95 lb.

any advise how to get the job done better & quicker, (I'm using Glass Beads very fine). should a change of this medium to a courser grade be considered.???

Many Thanks in Advance.

Best Regards. Jack.
 
where I used to work, we had a 'catblast' cabinet for cleaning ening parts, cyl heads, etc.
The beads did a nice looking job, but it just took too long...we switched to crushed glass (medium) and it sped it up considerably...but wear on the gun,nozzels,jets also went up...
 
where I used to work, we had a 'catblast' cabinet for cleaning ening parts, cyl heads, etc.
The beads did a nice looking job, but it just took too long...we switched to crushed glass (medium) and it sped it up considerably...but wear on the gun,nozzels,jets also went up...
 
where I used to work, we had a 'catblast' cabinet for cleaning ening parts, cyl heads, etc.
The beads did a nice looking job, but it just took too long...we switched to crushed glass (medium) and it sped it up considerably...but wear on the gun,nozzels,jets also went up...
 
The nozzle orifice will control a few things...
1, amount of media allowed to pass
2, width or fan of blast
3, velocity of media/air

The tighter the orifice the smaller the pattern, the higher the velocity, and the less media will pass. This is good for difficult to remove scale or cleaning but consumes more time energy, since it is a cabinet media spoilage or loss is not a concern( were it an open you would see less media consumed/hour but it takes more hours to do the job). The bigger the orifice the greater the velocity drop of blast, the wider the pattern, but the greater the media usage. More suited to larger parts with lighter work to be done.
Now some one will hammer you right away for using only 95lbs. I have no problem with that. Might be a tad slower, but the work gets done none the less. Since you are using a cabinet, it's likely your parts a say less that 1 X 2 foot and as such the time spent is not that great of a concern I would use the smaller nozzle. Remember the pattern can be adjusted by distance from work surface. Think of it as a shotgun choke.
 
The nozzle orifice will control a few things...
1, amount of media allowed to pass
2, width or fan of blast
3, velocity of media/air

The tighter the orifice the smaller the pattern, the higher the velocity, and the less media will pass. This is good for difficult to remove scale or cleaning but consumes more time energy, since it is a cabinet media spoilage or loss is not a concern( were it an open you would see less media consumed/hour but it takes more hours to do the job). The bigger the orifice the greater the velocity drop of blast, the wider the pattern, but the greater the media usage. More suited to larger parts with lighter work to be done.
Now some one will hammer you right away for using only 95lbs. I have no problem with that. Might be a tad slower, but the work gets done none the less. Since you are using a cabinet, it's likely your parts a say less that 1 X 2 foot and as such the time spent is not that great of a concern I would use the smaller nozzle. Remember the pattern can be adjusted by distance from work surface. Think of it as a shotgun choke.
 
The nozzle orifice will control a few things...
1, amount of media allowed to pass
2, width or fan of blast
3, velocity of media/air

The tighter the orifice the smaller the pattern, the higher the velocity, and the less media will pass. This is good for difficult to remove scale or cleaning but consumes more time energy, since it is a cabinet media spoilage or loss is not a concern( were it an open you would see less media consumed/hour but it takes more hours to do the job). The bigger the orifice the greater the velocity drop of blast, the wider the pattern, but the greater the media usage. More suited to larger parts with lighter work to be done.
Now some one will hammer you right away for using only 95lbs. I have no problem with that. Might be a tad slower, but the work gets done none the less. Since you are using a cabinet, it's likely your parts a say less that 1 X 2 foot and as such the time spent is not that great of a concern I would use the smaller nozzle. Remember the pattern can be adjusted by distance from work surface. Think of it as a shotgun choke.
 
Bigger nozzle = more CFM required by air compressor to blast effectively, but job gets done LOTS faster

Smaller nozzle = better for lower CFM compressor, but job takes longer

When blasting a large object, you will be kicking yourself if you undersized your compressor and had to go with a smaller nozzle - the job will take a LOT longer. If you use it very infrequently, no big deal. If you use it every day, VERY big deal. I regard blasting as a fairly boring task that I would likely to finish as soon as possible :D

Chad
 
Bigger nozzle = more CFM required by air compressor to blast effectively, but job gets done LOTS faster

Smaller nozzle = better for lower CFM compressor, but job takes longer

When blasting a large object, you will be kicking yourself if you undersized your compressor and had to go with a smaller nozzle - the job will take a LOT longer. If you use it very infrequently, no big deal. If you use it every day, VERY big deal. I regard blasting as a fairly boring task that I would likely to finish as soon as possible :D

Chad
 
Bigger nozzle = more CFM required by air compressor to blast effectively, but job gets done LOTS faster

Smaller nozzle = better for lower CFM compressor, but job takes longer

When blasting a large object, you will be kicking yourself if you undersized your compressor and had to go with a smaller nozzle - the job will take a LOT longer. If you use it very infrequently, no big deal. If you use it every day, VERY big deal. I regard blasting as a fairly boring task that I would likely to finish as soon as possible :D

Chad
 
Regarding the media variable, it is not only stripping speed but surface finish that is affected. What is the job you are doing? In general, go with the most aggressive media you can that still provides an acceptable finish. Glass bead is pretty mild stuff- good for a nice soft finish, horrible for stripping paint or rust. Some media is specialized. For example, walnut shells or other organic materials are the least aggressive but are often used with internal engine parts where the damage from any media left behind and finding its way into to critical assemblies is to be avoided.
 
Regarding the media variable, it is not only stripping speed but surface finish that is affected. What is the job you are doing? In general, go with the most aggressive media you can that still provides an acceptable finish. Glass bead is pretty mild stuff- good for a nice soft finish, horrible for stripping paint or rust. Some media is specialized. For example, walnut shells or other organic materials are the least aggressive but are often used with internal engine parts where the damage from any media left behind and finding its way into to critical assemblies is to be avoided.
 
Regarding the media variable, it is not only stripping speed but surface finish that is affected. What is the job you are doing? In general, go with the most aggressive media you can that still provides an acceptable finish. Glass bead is pretty mild stuff- good for a nice soft finish, horrible for stripping paint or rust. Some media is specialized. For example, walnut shells or other organic materials are the least aggressive but are often used with internal engine parts where the damage from any media left behind and finding its way into to critical assemblies is to be avoided.
 








 
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