donie
Diamond
- Joined
- May 17, 2003
- Location
- Walla Walla Wine and Wild Turkey
I got around to cleaning the 5C chuck and Hand wheel closer I built 8yrs ago and took these photos of it apart.
The reason I built this was to squeeze just a little more accuracy out of the EE when using the wimpy but handy 5C collets.
The problem of collet run out was solved by the adjust true feature of the two piece body and backplate with adjusting screws as per Buck jaw chucks.
I was having another problem using the standard equipment of taper in the work piece exceeding .0002" in 2" for example.
My thought on this problem was due to run out exceeding .003" at the hand wheel end, "rear of the headstock", that caused vibrations at 3000 to 4000 rpms using standard draw tubes "hand wheel and lever".
The hand wheel draw tube I made uses a Timken bearing that self centers the tube when the collet is tightened. This brought the hand wheel run out to .001", greatly reducing vibration at the highest speeds and reducing work piece taper to better than .0001" in a 2" length on 5/8" tool steel for example.
The draw tube itself is a thick wall, ground hydraulic tube with a 7/8 hole through it. Not a problem for me as 7/8" is bigger then I care to use 5C collets for anyway. The hand wheel tube closer assembly weighs a hefty 7 1/2 lbs. I believe the beefy draw tube adds stability and stiffness to the 5C collet when locked in.
The collet chuck is not hard to make. In the photos it can be seen that in the front piece of the chuck, I pressed in a 5C CNC collet holder that was purchased from MSC for around $100. That way you dont have to cut the 5C hole, and if the already hardened and ground 5C collet holder gets worn, a new one can be pressed in.
The back plate can be made from a purchased or surplus jaw chuck D13 back plate if desired. The front piece is easy to make.
The chuck in action, note the chucks taper and extra length allows good access in the threading operation,
http://s170.photobucket.com/albums/u265/donsmonarch10ee/?action=view¤t=transmission004.jpg
The chucks parts, front.
http://s170.photobucket.com/albums/u265/donsmonarch10ee/?action=view¤t=DSC00222.jpg
Inside.
http://s170.photobucket.com/albums/u265/donsmonarch10ee/?action=view¤t=DSC00223.jpg
Also pictured, is a modified Monarch 4 jaw chuck that was cut down from 8" to 5 1/2", the jaws precisely ground and dynamic balanced, my ultimate weapon for precision turning tool steels over 1" diameter at up to 3500 rpm.
The reason I built this was to squeeze just a little more accuracy out of the EE when using the wimpy but handy 5C collets.
The problem of collet run out was solved by the adjust true feature of the two piece body and backplate with adjusting screws as per Buck jaw chucks.
I was having another problem using the standard equipment of taper in the work piece exceeding .0002" in 2" for example.
My thought on this problem was due to run out exceeding .003" at the hand wheel end, "rear of the headstock", that caused vibrations at 3000 to 4000 rpms using standard draw tubes "hand wheel and lever".
The hand wheel draw tube I made uses a Timken bearing that self centers the tube when the collet is tightened. This brought the hand wheel run out to .001", greatly reducing vibration at the highest speeds and reducing work piece taper to better than .0001" in a 2" length on 5/8" tool steel for example.
The draw tube itself is a thick wall, ground hydraulic tube with a 7/8 hole through it. Not a problem for me as 7/8" is bigger then I care to use 5C collets for anyway. The hand wheel tube closer assembly weighs a hefty 7 1/2 lbs. I believe the beefy draw tube adds stability and stiffness to the 5C collet when locked in.
The collet chuck is not hard to make. In the photos it can be seen that in the front piece of the chuck, I pressed in a 5C CNC collet holder that was purchased from MSC for around $100. That way you dont have to cut the 5C hole, and if the already hardened and ground 5C collet holder gets worn, a new one can be pressed in.
The back plate can be made from a purchased or surplus jaw chuck D13 back plate if desired. The front piece is easy to make.
The chuck in action, note the chucks taper and extra length allows good access in the threading operation,
http://s170.photobucket.com/albums/u265/donsmonarch10ee/?action=view¤t=transmission004.jpg
The chucks parts, front.
http://s170.photobucket.com/albums/u265/donsmonarch10ee/?action=view¤t=DSC00222.jpg
Inside.
http://s170.photobucket.com/albums/u265/donsmonarch10ee/?action=view¤t=DSC00223.jpg
Also pictured, is a modified Monarch 4 jaw chuck that was cut down from 8" to 5 1/2", the jaws precisely ground and dynamic balanced, my ultimate weapon for precision turning tool steels over 1" diameter at up to 3500 rpm.
