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Sheffield Cordax 1000 CMM

JWC1257

Plastic
Joined
Oct 26, 2006
Location
San Diego
Any here ever change the reader heads? I was given an old 1000 and after the move I can't get the x and y to work. I want to use this thing for quick floor checks and don't want to spend thousands $ for fancy calibrations.
 
Any here ever change the reader heads? I was given an old 1000 and after the move I can't get the x and y to work. I want to use this thing for quick floor checks and don't want to spend thousands $ for fancy calibrations.
Do you see any light coming out of the heads ? If not you probably just need a new bulb. To ones annoyance, the bulb only comes in a special "assembly" and cost 150 bucks. (check bulb with ohmeter to make absolutely sure it's kaput first of course, since slight possiblity it's not getting 3.5 volts) The further catch is, after replacing it, you then need an ocilloscope to align it.. as the little mirrors in the head have to align to near perfection with the scale (and you *have* to remove the head to change the bulb, hence it will not be in the same alignment when you reassemble the whole deal) But the alignment could probably be done by trial and error if you're patient.

If you see light, try cleaning the lens in front of the mirrors on the head (not the magnification lens as that one doesn't matter so much unless it's filthy), and also the scale itself. Be very careful with the scale as you don't want to scratch it...use soft cloth or lens cleaner and lighter fluid for cleaner.
 
FWIW, today I realigned a reader head on a Sheffield without an oscope. The trick was having a large mirror so I could easily see the DRO display as I was adjusting the head angle...the tiniest difference in setting will result in no reading at all, or readings with occassional error code display. I finally got it right with no error codes even at rapid travel. But you have to be able to see how the display reacts in real time, thus the mirror. Oh course if you have position display on a DRO that can be pivoted toward you and on your computer monitor, no mirror needed. But the RS 5 model the display is in a fixed position.
 
I'll give it a try tomorrow. I found the original book that came with it and it tells how to align it with an O scope. the lamps are all working but the numbers just jump back and forth between .0001 and .0002 if you move the axis. No jumping if it isn't touched.
 
I'll give it a try tomorrow. I found the original book that came with it and it tells how to align it with an O scope. the lamps are all working but the numbers just jump back and forth between .0001 and .0002 if you move the axis. No jumping if it isn't touched.
In that case, sounds like the glass on end of the head is dirty, scale dirty or head out of alignment... or all three. But if like mine you should also be getting an error 34 and 35 (X and Y scale error numbers) with this situation.
 
This thing has been sitting for about a year. Shortly after I received it I ordered a set of reader heads off of Ebay. I tried adjusting the Y head and still wouldn't work. I replaced it with an Ebay head and aligned it the best I can without an O scope. It seems to work great but still sets off the fault light. I checked it roughly with a 3" gauge block and it's good.
How do I access the x reader head? Is the front panel removable? I removed a couple of screws but nothing will budge.
 
This thing has been sitting for about a year. Shortly after I received it I ordered a set of reader heads off of Ebay. I tried adjusting the Y head and still wouldn't work. I replaced it with an Ebay head and aligned it the best I can without an O scope. It seems to work great but still sets off the fault light. I checked it roughly with a 3" gauge block and it's good.
How do I access the x reader head? Is the front panel removable? I removed a couple of screws but nothing will budge.
I got the panel off. I'm putting a new head on the x and hope to get it running today. Thanks so much for the help. It gave me the courage to tackle the problem instead of calling in a cmm service that was going to charge me $500 just to look at it.
 
I tried adjusting the Y head and still wouldn't work. I replaced it with an Ebay head and aligned it the best I can without an O scope. It seems to work great but still sets off the fault light. I checked it roughly with a 3" gauge block and it's good.
I found that even when it seems to work, it still isn't quite right if you are still getting a fault error. In other words, even with the DRO displaying seemingly accurate numbers, the head adjustment needs to be pretty much dead on to not get a fault. Difficult to do without a scope, but possible.. as I just did it this week.

In my case I had no formal O scope instructions but just what one of the Sheffield techs told me on the phone. But damned if I could locate the right pins on the X/Y/Z board to connect the probes.
 
I found that even when it seems to work, it still isn't quite right if you are still getting a fault error. In other words, even with the DRO displaying seemingly accurate numbers, the head adjustment needs to be pretty much dead on to not get a fault. Difficult to do without a scope, but possible.. as I just did it this week.

In my case I had no formal O scope instructions but just what one of the Sheffield techs told me on the phone. But damned if I could locate the right pins on the X/Y/Z board to connect the probes.
If I get a chance this week, I'll scan and upload the instructions for aligning the heads. It's got all the pin outs and what gains and balances to adjust. I'm searching around town now for a older(cheap) but good oscilloscope so I can do it right. The x is being a real bitch and doesn't repeat.
 
I'm searching around town now for a older(cheap) but good oscilloscope so I can do it right. The x is being a real bitch and doesn't repeat.
Tech told me you need dual scan type and at least 100 mHz. With settings as per he descripted on scope, what you want to see on the screen is a perfect circle...only then is the adjustment perfect.
 
Tech told me you need dual scan type and at least 100 mHz. With settings as per he descripted on scope, what you want to see on the screen is a perfect circle...only then is the adjustment perfect.
Yeah I figured that and I am looking for a scope made around the time or newer than the Cordax.
 
I find it hard to believe you would need a 100mhz scope for that kind of application. I would think a 20 or 30mhz would do the trick.
 
update

Picked up a 20mhz dual trace scope on ebay for $50 and took a quick ocope refresher course on Youtube. Adjusted the reader heads to get the perfect as I could circles. Then adjusted the gains and balance on all three axis which were a bit off. No more fault lights! Everything is working good but I may have to adjust the squareness of the Y axis arm. It might have been bumped in the move.
 
Todays problem is setting the effective diameter of the touch probe(TP-1). It calls for X(n)Y(dia. of ring gage) F9E. n is number of points to record. When I enter this I get an error 11.
 
A few years ago we purchased a Cordax 3000 with Soft Mic on Ebay but haven't had a chance to hook it up until recently. Of course, when we received the machine, there were no manuals or floppy discs with it.

Most of the cables were marked where to connect them and we were able to get it up and running. Thanks to this thread, I was able to determine what error codes 34 & 36 were and was able to tweak the readers enough to eliminate the error codes. I am sure they still need fine tuned and would like to get a copy of the correct procedure from JWC if possible.

The Soft Mic unit has an issue as well but I have no idea where to start with it. The monitor comes on but is completely blank. Anyone have any ideas where to start with this thing? Does it require a floppy for startup? I am totally lost as it is nothing like a PC inside.

Does anyone have suggestions where I can get operation and maintenance manuals for the machine and Soft Mic system?

I appreciate any input that you can give.

Marc
 
A few years ago we purchased a Cordax 3000 with Soft Mic on Ebay but haven't had a chance to hook it up until recently. Of course, when we received the machine, there were no manuals or floppy discs with it.

Most of the cables were marked where to connect them and we were able to get it up and running. Thanks to this thread, I was able to determine what error codes 34 & 36 were and was able to tweak the readers enough to eliminate the error codes. I am sure they still need fine tuned and would like to get a copy of the correct procedure from JWC if possible.

The Soft Mic unit has an issue as well but I have no idea where to start with it. The monitor comes on but is completely blank. Anyone have any ideas where to start with this thing? Does it require a floppy for startup? I am totally lost as it is nothing like a PC inside.

Does anyone have suggestions where I can get operation and maintenance manuals for the machine and Soft Mic system?

I appreciate any input that you can give.

Marc

The file was too big for this server but I put it up on Rapidshare.
http://rapidshare.com/files/164694525/cordax.pdf.html
 
JWC
Thanks for the quick reply and help. I will pick up an oscilloscope and properly set the heads. What luck, my neighbors father is a retired Sheffield service technician and he will be stopping by this afternoon to look at the SoftMic unit. Hopefully, he will be able to find the problem or point me in the right direction.

Thanks again

Marc
 
todays question

My Cordax 3000 just has the controller box and no PC. It has an Rs232 jack on the back and I remember a PC hooked up to the same unit at a company years ago. I want to get a PC on it so I can run inspection software and have printouts. Do I need a special PCI card or can it plug right into the serial port and all I need is the software?
 








 
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