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Do you see any light coming out of the heads ? If not you probably just need a new bulb. To ones annoyance, the bulb only comes in a special "assembly" and cost 150 bucks. (check bulb with ohmeter to make absolutely sure it's kaput first of course, since slight possiblity it's not getting 3.5 volts) The further catch is, after replacing it, you then need an ocilloscope to align it.. as the little mirrors in the head have to align to near perfection with the scale (and you *have* to remove the head to change the bulb, hence it will not be in the same alignment when you reassemble the whole deal) But the alignment could probably be done by trial and error if you're patient.Any here ever change the reader heads? I was given an old 1000 and after the move I can't get the x and y to work. I want to use this thing for quick floor checks and don't want to spend thousands $ for fancy calibrations.
In that case, sounds like the glass on end of the head is dirty, scale dirty or head out of alignment... or all three. But if like mine you should also be getting an error 34 and 35 (X and Y scale error numbers) with this situation.I'll give it a try tomorrow. I found the original book that came with it and it tells how to align it with an O scope. the lamps are all working but the numbers just jump back and forth between .0001 and .0002 if you move the axis. No jumping if it isn't touched.
I got the panel off. I'm putting a new head on the x and hope to get it running today. Thanks so much for the help. It gave me the courage to tackle the problem instead of calling in a cmm service that was going to charge me $500 just to look at it.This thing has been sitting for about a year. Shortly after I received it I ordered a set of reader heads off of Ebay. I tried adjusting the Y head and still wouldn't work. I replaced it with an Ebay head and aligned it the best I can without an O scope. It seems to work great but still sets off the fault light. I checked it roughly with a 3" gauge block and it's good.
How do I access the x reader head? Is the front panel removable? I removed a couple of screws but nothing will budge.
I found that even when it seems to work, it still isn't quite right if you are still getting a fault error. In other words, even with the DRO displaying seemingly accurate numbers, the head adjustment needs to be pretty much dead on to not get a fault. Difficult to do without a scope, but possible.. as I just did it this week.I tried adjusting the Y head and still wouldn't work. I replaced it with an Ebay head and aligned it the best I can without an O scope. It seems to work great but still sets off the fault light. I checked it roughly with a 3" gauge block and it's good.
If I get a chance this week, I'll scan and upload the instructions for aligning the heads. It's got all the pin outs and what gains and balances to adjust. I'm searching around town now for a older(cheap) but good oscilloscope so I can do it right. The x is being a real bitch and doesn't repeat.I found that even when it seems to work, it still isn't quite right if you are still getting a fault error. In other words, even with the DRO displaying seemingly accurate numbers, the head adjustment needs to be pretty much dead on to not get a fault. Difficult to do without a scope, but possible.. as I just did it this week.
In my case I had no formal O scope instructions but just what one of the Sheffield techs told me on the phone. But damned if I could locate the right pins on the X/Y/Z board to connect the probes.
Tech told me you need dual scan type and at least 100 mHz. With settings as per he descripted on scope, what you want to see on the screen is a perfect circle...only then is the adjustment perfect.I'm searching around town now for a older(cheap) but good oscilloscope so I can do it right. The x is being a real bitch and doesn't repeat.
Yeah I figured that and I am looking for a scope made around the time or newer than the Cordax.Tech told me you need dual scan type and at least 100 mHz. With settings as per he descripted on scope, what you want to see on the screen is a perfect circle...only then is the adjustment perfect.
A few years ago we purchased a Cordax 3000 with Soft Mic on Ebay but haven't had a chance to hook it up until recently. Of course, when we received the machine, there were no manuals or floppy discs with it.
Most of the cables were marked where to connect them and we were able to get it up and running. Thanks to this thread, I was able to determine what error codes 34 & 36 were and was able to tweak the readers enough to eliminate the error codes. I am sure they still need fine tuned and would like to get a copy of the correct procedure from JWC if possible.
The Soft Mic unit has an issue as well but I have no idea where to start with it. The monitor comes on but is completely blank. Anyone have any ideas where to start with this thing? Does it require a floppy for startup? I am totally lost as it is nothing like a PC inside.
Does anyone have suggestions where I can get operation and maintenance manuals for the machine and Soft Mic system?
I appreciate any input that you can give.
Marc
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