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proper barrel threading

common762

Aluminum
Joined
Dec 30, 2005
Location
Dalton Georgia
I am about to thread my FN bolt action for the new AAC suppressor I got for Christmas. can anyone give me any tips on how to set it up and thread it. I have a pretty good lathe with a steady rest. I think that most gunsmiths use a spider and hold the muzzle end at the chuck but I don't have a spider. I made a small plug about 4 inches long that fits the bore snugly to have something true and straight to indicate off of. your advice is appreciated. thanks Brian
 
No need to use the steady. The barrel OD is unlikely true to the bore ID so you probably don't want to use the steady anyway. Just use a Newlon Precision http://www.newlonprecision.com/ crown saver and an NC live center in the muzzle with the breach end of the barrel in the chuck. You don't always have to use an NC center but it gives you more working room especially on a small dia barrel. The crown saver won't hurt the crown and centers the barrel to the bore. If you don't want to remove the barrel from the action you can make a tight fitting mandrel to fit the bolt raceway and use setscrews through the action bolt holes to lock it to the mandrel. Put the mandrel that is mounted in the action in a four jaw, the muzzle w/crown saver in the NC Center and dial in the mandrel at the chuck end. If you are careful you don't even need to remove the trigger. If you use a mandrel make sure you turn a shoulder on your mandrel so it cannot be pushed back into the chuck while under pressure of the center at the muzzle and put some flats on the mandrel for the setscrews so the assembly doesn't spin on the mandrel. Also when you make the mandrel put a 45º or 60º on the front end and make it long enough so the beveled end will butt up against the back of the chamber. When you need to check for thread fit carefully pull the tailstock back while supporting the barrel and the crown saver should stay stuck to the muzzle. Brownells carries the crown savers too but I think they are cheaper direct from Newlon.
 
No need to use the steady. The barrel OD is unlikely true to the bore ID so you probably don't want to use the steady anyway. Just use a Newlon Precision http://www.newlonprecision.com/ crown saver and an NC live center in the muzzle with the breach end of the barrel in the chuck. You don't always have to use an NC center but it gives you more working room especially on a small dia barrel. The crown saver won't hurt the crown and centers the barrel to the bore. If you don't want to remove the barrel from the action you can make a tight fitting mandrel to fit the bolt raceway and use setscrews through the action bolt holes to lock it to the mandrel. Put the mandrel that is mounted in the action in a four jaw, the muzzle w/crown saver in the NC Center and dial in the mandrel at the chuck end. If you are careful you don't even need to remove the trigger. If you use a mandrel make sure you turn a shoulder on your mandrel so it cannot be pushed back into the chuck while under pressure of the center at the muzzle and put some flats on the mandrel for the setscrews so the assembly doesn't spin on the mandrel. Also when you make the mandrel put a 45º or 60º on the front end and make it long enough so the beveled end will butt up against the back of the chamber. When you need to check for thread fit carefully pull the tailstock back while supporting the barrel and the crown saver should stay stuck to the muzzle. Brownells carries the crown savers too but I think they are cheaper direct from Newlon.

Great writ up!
 
Great writ up!

Why spend all of your time on the 223 and just buy a cheap 22lr and thread the barrel for it. The twist rate of the 223 will not allow the use of heavy bullets need to get more foot pounds of energy available with the subsonic 223 ammo. When you load the 223 subsonic with light bullets you will not have much more energy than a 22lr standard velocity cartridge.
Sounds like a big waste of time effort and money, and you are going to ruin a good rifle.
 
A couple of other things. I don't know about suppressors but a lot muzzle brakes have a register at the rear of the brake to help keep the brake aligned when installed and to help keep it from vibrating loose. The register is a short section (~.100"-.125" or so long) that will be ~.010" over major thread diameter. You can easily see if your brake or suppressor has this by looking at it. There will be a section as I described that is not threaded at the threaded end of the brake/suppressor. It is not for thread relief at the shoulder but for an alignment register as described. On the barrel you would make this register ~.002" under the brake diameter for a close fit. Just picture a shoulder on barrel where the brake/suppressor will butt against then a short section slightly larger than major thread dia to match the brake/suppressor then the threaded portion. You probably do not want to turn a thread relief as it would weaken the barrel especially with a suppressor hanging off the end. You can finish off the thread once you're close with a quality die, adjusting the die so you have a tight thread fit. You can reverse the die to bring the threads up close to the register or shoulder if there is no register.
 








 
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