How to remove 10EE forward neutral reverse selector?

pbungum · May 27, 2009

Hello - I am confounded as to how the forward,neutral, reverse selector is removed from the headstock. I've pulled the handle, but can't seem to get the round dome shaped piece off (I'd like to powdercoat a few of these small pieces at work).

Anybody know how to do this? The drawing from Monarch shows that there are 3 flat screws (if I am looking at the correct drawing), but I have removed the paint and can find no such screws.

Also, I have a selector switch on the face of the lathe that has a taper pin in it, which I can't seem to knock loose - are there any secret methods (are well known for that matter) for removing taper pins other than a punch?

macona · May 27, 2009

Under the spindle towards the front of the machine is a hole. In the hole is a set screw. Remove the screw. There is another set screw under that screw. Remove that one. The whole assembly should pull out from the front.

Cal Haines · May 27, 2009

pbungum said:
Hello - I am confounded as to how the forward,neutral, reverse selector is removed from the headstock. I've pulled the handle, but can't seem to get the round dome shaped piece off (I'd like to powdercoat a few of these small pieces at work).

Anybody know how to do this? The drawing from Monarch shows that there are 3 flat screws (if I am looking at the correct drawing), but I have removed the paint and can find no such screws.

Also, I have a selector switch on the face of the lathe that has a taper pin in it, which I can't seem to knock loose - are there any secret methods (are well known for that matter) for removing taper pins other than a punch?

I suspect that the 3 screws you are looking at are the ones that hold the catch plate, behind the handle. Once you remove the handle, you'll see it.

The set screws that Jerry mentioned are probably hidden by filler and paint. The tapped hole is ¼” and located at the same height as the center of the handle and about 1-3/8” behind the front (operator’s side) face of the casting (at least that’s how it is on my round-dial, might be different on a square-dial). Looking into the spindle, it’s at about 7 O’clock. A line passing through the front bearing retainer plate bolts at 1 and 7 O’clock seems to go right through the hole.

Most of the time the tapered pins come right out with a punch and a few light taps of the hammer. Just be absolutely certain that you are driving from the small end (learned that one the hard way). Be aware that many of the handles were drilled and pinned in place, so when you come across a situation where you can’t get a punch against one end of the pin, you can bet that’s the side you need to get to.

DaveE posted some examples of tools he’s made to press out taper pins. A trick I came up with is to hot glue a ball bearing the tip of a machinist’s clamp and use that to press the pin free. You need something on the back side to allow the pin to move. A stack of washers or a short tube will do the trick. An eight of an inch or so is about all you need. Once the pin breaks loose you it should pop right out.

You can use the ball bearing trick to press pins back in as well. I usually can’t get them back in to the original depth with just a punch. I find it’s easier to hot glue the ball bearing to the pin when I’m installing one.

If you run into a pin that has had the wrong side battered until the pin won’t move (by some idiot trying to drive it out from the wrong side) then you will probably have to drill it out. A drill jig is the way to go if you want to salvage the handle. (I’d like to give you a link, but the search function seems to be broken.)

Cal

pbungum · May 27, 2009

Great ideas Cal - thanks! I'll give that ball bearing trick a shot.

peterh5322 · May 28, 2009

At least on my machines, the tapered pin in the front half is used to engage a fork in the rear half, so it is over-long and projects beyond the spacer which retains the lever shaft.

The rear half has the drum switch mounted on it.

DaveE907 · May 28, 2009

Cal's hot glued ball and receiver to a toolmaker's parallel clamp as a taper pin pusher is real innovation. Never crossed my mind, Bravo!

Jim McIntyre · Jul 14, 2009

macona said:
Under the spindle towards the front of the machine is a hole. In the hole is a set screw. Remove the screw. There is another set screw under that screw. Remove that one. The whole assembly should pull out from the front.

Not that way on mine (1962 modular). On it, I had to remove the drum switch from the back of the headstock, and then reach in and remove the snap ring from the forward/reverse shaft. The shaft/round domed piece could be driven out from the back.

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How to remove 10EE forward neutral reverse selector?

pbungum

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Cal Haines

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pbungum

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peterh5322

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Jim McIntyre

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