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Newby chiming in to say HI

matstng

Plastic
Joined
Jan 26, 2012
Location
Simi Valley, Ca.
Hello everyone. I am new to machining and have aquired a 1954 10EE which I'm setting up in my backyard shop. I plan on spending a bit of time here doing a lot of reading and asking questions.

Matt

Here she is before being moved. I've also picked up a 10HP rotory converter (Does this sound like enough to run it?) and will be wiring sometime over the weekend.

lathe.jpg
 
"I've also picked up a 10HP rotory converter (Does this sound like enough to run it?)"

An M-G machine usually runs about 6.5 HP, more or less.

A 7.5 HP RPC is usually enough, but 10 HP is not over-kill.

The spindle motor on pre-1957 machines is 3 HP, but the electro-mechanical drive (Ward-Leonard) is around 50 percent efficient.
 
Welcome Matt,

That is a very nice looking machine, looks like it lead an easy life. A 10 HP rotary should be fine for a M/G. You are pretty close by, holler if you need something.

Steve

Thanks Steve,
I may take you up on your help offer. I think I'll need it but want to see if I can fugure it out.

Hi Matt,

Welcome aboard!

Does it have a motor/generator (M/G) drive? Do you know what voltage it was last running from?

Cal

I'm not sure Cal. How can I tell if it's got the generator? I'm also not sure on the voltage it was last run with. I do see a 120V transformer on the back of the machine.
 
Matt,

I am not really clear on the M/G wiring, is the fused disconnect on the back of the machine? What is the fuse rating on these voltage and amps? The transformer I mentioned in on the tube machines. The motor wiring should tell you what voltage it is taped for as well. The fuses are a quick check if present.

Steve
 
I can't see the wiring in the photo well enough to say for sure how it's connected. There are two metal plaques on the MG to the right of the box that are hidden by the base casting. One shows the connections for the high and low voltage (typical nine wire three phase motor). The other shows the rated voltages. You might be able to see them with an inspection mirror from the tailstock end.

The majority of MG were rated for 220 or 440 volt input. I have photos of those plaques but can't post them on the forum with this computer, however I can email them. If interested PM your email and I'll get them off to you.
 
See the DC on the left of that line? That tag refers to the 230 volt DC output of the generator portion of the MG, it has no meaning with respect to the motor input voltage. The photos I can email show the motor low and high voltage connection data.

To send a PM click on my name and a menu will open, select "Send a private message..."

Or if you are willing put your email here with spaces for the @ and .
 
Matt,

Just in case it's not clear from Steve and Dave's comments, you do have a motor/generator (M/G) machine; machines of this vintage were also produced with an electronic drive with vacuum tubes. Your 230 Volt DC panel is less common than 115 VDC.

If it's a standard, dual voltage M/G, then it appears to be wired for 440. If it were wired for 220, there would be two wires each under T1, T2 & T3. There should also be 3 pairs of wires that are tied together. This thread should be of use to you in figuring out what you have and converting it to 220/240 if it's wired for 440:
The transformer was probably there to power a work light.

Cal
 
I got my Ah Ha momment!!!! I get it now.
I just found the sets of wires that are tied together hidden behind the casting.

2012-01-30_19-31-11_583.jpg


It does appear to be wired for 440 and doesn't look to be a difficult change.
2012-01-30_18-52-40_812.jpg


Should this be it? Is there anything else I need to check before putting power to it? Where is a good place to buy the brass loop terminals and wire # markers? Radio Shack, McMaster Carr, ???? Do I need that style?

Here's a shot of the other end... Does the upper motor start the lower? "Piggy Back Exciter"?
2012-01-30_18-57-25_390.jpg


Thanks everyone
Matt
 
Matt,

The T1-T3 are the terminals for the motor leads. There is a chance that the wires wrapped up have rings, they are not imperative, wire nuts work fine. On the white terminal strip you can see the T1 at the bottom then T2 and T3. Re-tap the motor wires for low voltage 220 and connect the wires used to the T1-T3 terminals, once they are connected if the motor rotation is correct your done, if the motor is turning the wrong way switch any two of T connections. You may have to rewire the control circuit IF it is using that 220 transformer and the motor overload heaters should be changed to the correct amperage for 220, actually 240 now days.

Steve
 
Sounds like you are on the right track.

The piggy back exciter on top of the MG doesn't start the MG, it's a separate DC generator to supply control voltage to operate the DC panel contactors and also supply power for the spindle motor field windings.

The larger generator portion of the MG under the piggy back is what supplies the higher power DC needed to drive the spindle motor armature.
 
I've completed the 220V conversion and still am not getting power. :bawling:

I've confirmed the RPC is working and putting 120V to each of the 3 legs.
I've push the green start button and turned the spindle on (I think) but get nothing.
I don't see a contactor coil on the back of the machine (Cal's 440-220 conversion thread)

2012-02-01_19-44-15_613.jpg


Ideas????

Here's a few more pics of the wiring.
2012-02-01_19-48-59_431.jpg

2012-02-01_19-48-36_309.jpg


Thanks
Matt
 








 
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