1940 sundstrand 10ee help

plumberpieco · Feb 2, 2013

Anyone know the belt size for the electric motor to the hydraulic drive on the sundstrand 10ee? Mine is a bit too frayed to get a # off of. It seems as though in its life someone removed the tension pulley for the main drive belt from the hydraulic drive to the spindle and put a belt on that just fits. I can run it like this just fine but at some point would like to make an idler and get the right size belt for that also. Next, is there some trick to remove the sight glasses out of their recess without resorting to the old "ford wrench"? I picked this machine up a while back and think its time to give her a little attention.
Thanks for any help Z

beckley23 · Feb 2, 2013

IIRC, that is a 3 HP motor driving the Sundstrand, most likely a B section. Should be able to tell by measuring the width of the grooves. Can't help on the length but measure the pulley diameters and center distance and go from there. Had one of those machines years ago, and really would like to forget it, it's probably the biggest PITA I ever came across, that is the drive, which has absolutely no support.
Harry

peterh5322 · Feb 2, 2013

Practical Machinist member rimcanyon has a working Sundstrand machine in his residential shop.

It has been converted to single-phase through the use of a lower-rated main motor. 1-1/2 HP, I believe.

Give him a PM. He's always very helpful.

plumberpieco · Feb 3, 2013

Last night I recalled that there was some sort of link belt in a box of goodies that came with the lathe, I had forgotten about it since it was back in 2011 that I aquired the machine. It fit so problem solved.

Now the main drive belt is a differant issue since it rubs on the body casting not having the idler tension pulley. I'll still need that lenghth and the diameter of the idler.

Back when I orriginally posted about this lathe I was having problems loading pics so here are a few from its original home.

Thanks Z

Cal Haines · Feb 3, 2013

I'm glad to see that there are still a few of these old ladies still in service! What's the serial number and build date?

Cal

plumberpieco · Feb 4, 2013

The build date is 5-1940 and serial # 7972

Here is a pic of how the drive belt rubbs on the casting where the idler pulley should be.

The tail stock clamp does not seem to lock very well either. I have tightened the adjuster nut without satisfactory results. Any thoughts?

Thanks Z

rke[pler · Feb 4, 2013

plumberpieco said:
Here is a pic of how the drive belt rubbs on the casting where the idler pulley should be.

I'm sure that someone can scrounge up that idler arm. You might ask Monarch and see if they have a used one laying about, they can be very reasonable about used parts.

The tail stock clamp does not seem to lock very well either. I have tightened the adjuster nut without satisfactory results. Any thoughts?

Some of these older machines can have sections of the ways squished out on the underside where the lock engages, check to make sure that things are OK on yours. Other than that it's just an matter of parking it where you can reach up and play with things - you want the locking plate to be free with the handle up and just past start locking when the handle cams over the eccentric pulling the back bit up. As Bill says, just play with it, it's pretty clear how it all works.

waynes · Feb 5, 2013

I had trouble with my TS locking handle - it had to go all the way down to the bed before the handle would stay put, and only sometimes then. Taking the handle off, the hole through the ecentric shaft had been re-drilled for the pin at the wrong angle. It just needed the pin to be in the original hole to work properly.

Wayne

rimcanyon · Feb 11, 2013

peterh5322 said:
Practical Machinist member rimcanyon has a working Sundstrand machine in his residential shop.

It has been converted to single-phase through the use of a lower-rated main motor. 1-1/2 HP, I believe.

Give him a PM. He's always very helpful.

Actually it is a single phase 3HP motor, 110/220V. I don't have shop wiring large enough to run a 3hp motor at 110V, so I have it wired for 220V. I have a spare 3HP 220V motor if you need one.

Regarding the tailstock clamp, the contact surfaces on the clamp bar are a pair of pins with hardened heads. I have seen several of them where the hardened heads fractured, so adjustment would not work. Monarch used to sell the replacement parts, not sure if they still do. If not, I have some spares. They are a simple press fit.

-Dave

plumberpieco · Feb 11, 2013

Hey thanks guys. The link belt didn't work well as I could not adjust it tight enough, slipped way too mutch. I was able to resurect a number off the old one, C38.

Does anyone know what the actual high rpm limit is on the drive?
With a laser tach I get 2500rpm give or take at the drive and roughly 2000rpm at the spindle.
The pulley size is 5-5/8" at the drive and 7" at the spindle. I am perfectly happy with that rpm range but did not know if I should be getting more out of it without changing the pulley combinations.

I found an informative thread on the idler pulley bearings for when I make one, and was thinking a 3" diameter should do it. Thought I'd also put a polly v or serpentine belt on 1.5" wide.

Thanks again Z

Cal Haines · Feb 12, 2013

plumberpieco said:
...
Does anyone know what the actual high rpm limit is on the drive?
With a laser tach I get 2500rpm give or take at the drive and roughly 2000rpm at the spindle.
The pulley size is 5-5/8" at the drive and 7" at the spindle. ...

The 1939 10EE brochure that someone (maybe Dave or Russ) posted lists the range as 25 to 2500 RPM. I don't know what the stock pulley sizes are.

Cal

plumberpieco · Feb 12, 2013

Dave: Thanks for the offer on the motor, I have my equipment running fine on a "home brew" rpc that I put together getting info from this site. I am curious though as to your top rpm and pulley sizes.

Bill: My lathe does have a working tach but I used the laser to check the drive pulley and then the spindle rpm to see if the machine tach was accurate. When I compare the rpm checked with the laser tach between pulleys the results don't match mathematically, but close enough considering I got the tach from that cheap import freight place.
I also looked into the narrower belts and buying an idler, but that takes the fun out of making it two or three times before getting it right. Gotta learn some how. You should have heard the explatives fly when I made the cross feed screw for my Leblond dual drive with taper att.

Thanks: Z

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