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New to me Monarch 10EE -1943

Wpala

Plastic
Joined
Mar 2, 2012
Location
Caledon, Ontario Canada
Hi
Name is Paul - hobby machinist I think I got a bit more than I can chew on for the moment just got this Monarch 10EE build in 1943 lathe for 1500$ my plan is to restore it to the best condition I can do, I have seen some of the lathes in here and wow I don't think my skills and abilities are there to get it that nice but I will do my very best I hope to get some info from this site on the steps and process involved in this and some tips on getting this thing done.
I'm planing on using this lathe for my own projects for now I have another lathe (Standard Modern) available to work on and make parts for this lathe so no rush to get it done
I guess my questions are
How much of the strip down to get this painted do I need to get everything off including all the inside this is motor generator model
what would be the most efficient way of stripping it down I have used almost a gallon of degreaser already on the outside and every time I touch the lathe there is still dirt in on it I feel like I should soak it in the degreaser and power wash it or something (just kidding) also on the inside there is like 1/2 inch of dirt and old oil on it what is the best way of cleaning that since the access to some areas is limited, how do I recondition the surface of the cross slide and compound there are a lot of nicks on it do I have to live with it or is there a way of getting rid of them?
anyway I think for the first post that is enough questions more -a lat more will follow

Paul
some photos
mon1.jpg
mon2.jpg
mon3.jpg
mon4.jpg
mon5.jpg
I can only attache 5 photos per post so more photos in the next
 
Nice machine Paul....many in here would chomp on an opportunity to grab any 10ee for that price. It will be well worth the time, effort and of course...money!
 
I noted the same detail as Bill - but dont stress over it, use it some to check for any real wear.

On the nicks in the compound and cross slide - I assume you are just referring to the years of nicks and dings on the exposed surfaces - not on the ways. If so a bur file will eliminate the high spots. I believe some have scraped these surfaces and or ground them but its not really necessary. If you have not done it yet read Harry's posts in the sticky's (beckley23) as well as threads by Daryl Bane, and plenty others - lots of info via search.

Also if adding more pictures reply to your thread and add pics to your reply, rather than starting another one - keeps things in one place.
Paul
 
Interesting difference on the build dates. The serial number is the same on the plate as the bed. Mine (serial 8534) has no date stamped with the serial number on the bed. Do the other 10EE's have a date stamp with the serial on the bed? I wonder if it was sent back for a re-build after lots of use in War production?

Someone will be able to figure the correct date based on the serial number. If it was a base swap, one of them has been re-stamped - but it sure doesn't look like it. Or someone didn't get enough coffee that morning and grabbed the wrong stamp.

The black stuff inside the base may not be all grunge. Mine didn't have it, but from what I've read, Monarch sprayed an ashpalt type of material inside the base for sound deadening or something. I didn't do anything with all the nicks on the carriage and crosslide. I was surprised at how thoroughly mine was dinged up. Figure it spent more of it's life as a shelf to drop tools on than as a precision lathe. You will want to read through some of the rebuild pages - there is a lot of great info here. You will want to take the carriage and saddle apart to clean up the lube system - it probably won't pump oil as is. It will take a bit of work, but you'll have a great machine when it's done!

Wayne
 
Monarch Lathe 022.jpgMonarch Lathe 023.jpgMonarch Lathe 001.jpgMonarch Lathe 025.jpgHi Paul,
Congrats on the 10ee, I have just fininshed a 1953 and although it did not have as much dirt and crud as yours. I used a product called Super Clean by castol and it will take all the oil and grease off anything. I first put diesel in a 2 gal garden sparyer and soaked the whole lathe with it. After a few hour of letting the diesel do is work to soffen the crud I soaked the lathe with the Super Clean. The Super Clean can be cut with water, as per directions, but I used it 50/50. After the Super Clean desolved the diesle and crud, I just used the sprayer with clear water and sprayed off the cleaner. The spayer will give you a better aim and will keep from getting into the motors and panels.

Good Luck with it.
Allen
 
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Congratulations on your lathe.

I hand-scraped all of the pain off mine. Didn't want to sand it and fill my worshop with piant dust. Took about 8hrs or so I would guess. I used a combination of flat, curved and round-nosed machinist scrapers and followed up with quick rub-over with decorator's sandpaper to knock off any ridges. I only wanted to get mine one colour and reasonable-looking, I couldn't go to the lengths that others have of filling & sanding though I do admire the results they get.
 
I like to rebuild old tools and almost always do the same. Dismantle, quick scrape, decrease with oven cleaner and Scotch Brite pads. I then wash and repair if needed. Once ready, I then said don't and paint every thing if needed and reassemble. I am always surprised how fast the time passes, how much I learn and how often I find things that can be fixed that I would never have found. My 10EE took longer then others due to house and kids.
 
The dates do not match but the serial numbers match - I think someone used the wrong stamp when putting the date on the machine. The bed looks relatively clean for her age.
 








 
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