Sticky for posting tools and supplies for scraping

CBlair · Jun 16, 2014

I have decided to add a sticky at the top of the page to list tools and supplies that members list in their posts. I have closed it so for now I am the only one who can add to it, this may change later. I dont know if I can keep it up to date or not but I am going to try. This way if you want to buy something you dont have to search all the posts to find what post the tool was mentioned in.

If you want to add something to the list you can post it or PM me and let me know.

Charles

matt_isserstedt · Jun 16, 2014

Not sure if you wanted to add hand scrapers (new ones) to the list.

Dapra is well-known.
Power Scraping Accessories & Aids | DAPRA

Anderson Bros have their own website. I think they are also sold thru McMaster Carr. The carbide is totally unprepared when new and while decent, I don't think its quite as good as Sandvik.
Anderson Brothers Manufacturing in Rockford, IL Original Solid Shank Scraper and Model 5 Tubular Scrapers with High Speed Steel and Carbide Tipped Blades.

Sandvik scrapers (which I like) are trickier. They can be had thru Grainger or Amazon. I believe Amazon is lower priced, search "sandvik clamp-on scraper" and there are 3 styles, a 20mm wide, 25mm wide and 30mm wide. There are no pictures, there are 55 countries it cannot be shipped to. I'm amazed we even let Richard leave the country

Despite no pictures, it does come with a carbide insert with a double-negative rake but the radius of a manhole cover. Which will last quite awhile but is also basically unprepared. Dapra's carbide inserts will fit the Sandvik body, I called them to inquire about this.

Not sure if Glendo/AccuFinish should make the list for their diamond wheel carbide sharpeners.
Accu-Finish | Sharpen ? Make ? Modify

CBlair · Jun 16, 2014

Thanks for the suggestions Matt, I have added to the list.

Charles

Peter. · Jun 16, 2014

I have started using these for grinding carbide tips. I have two, 1200 and 3000 grit. 1200 I use for grinding the radius and 3000 for putting on the cutting angle before lapping. Actually they cut extremely well just with the 3000 but the edge is not as keen as lapping nor lasts as long. I made a backing plate for my 6" grinder from a piece of 1/2" aluminium.

I've added a picture instead of a link because the link will expire but the picture will allow you to find them on eBay. At £8 delivered they are great value and both arrived within days. UK guys be sure to only order one at a time to keep below the £15 customs threshold.

I did try to use the back as a lap but it's not viable. It works but too much pressure gouges the disc and it's already very thin.

CBlair · Jun 16, 2014

Paging Jan at TGTool, you need to clean out your inbox I cannot send you a reply to the PM you sent to me.

Charles

TGTool · Jun 16, 2014

CBlair said:
Paging Jan at TGTool, you need to clean out your inbox I cannot send you a reply to the PM you sent to me.

Charles

Sorry, will do.

Peter. · Jun 18, 2014

Peter. said:
I have started using these for grinding carbide tips. I have two, 1200 and 3000 grit. 1200 I use for grinding the radius and 3000 for putting on the cutting angle before lapping. Actually they cut extremely well just with the 3000 but the edge is not as keen as lapping nor lasts as long. I made a backing plate for my 6" grinder from a piece of 1/2" aluminium.

View attachment 109769

I've added a picture instead of a link because the link will expire but the picture will allow you to find them on eBay. At £8 delivered they are great value and both arrived within days. UK guys be sure to only order one at a time to keep below the £15 customs threshold.

I did try to use the back as a lap but it's not viable. It works but too much pressure gouges the disc and it's already very thin.

So do you not want this kind of stuff offered for including?

CBlair · Jun 18, 2014

I havent had time to include that yet, I like to check out the product before I post it that is why I have locked it for now. I will probably add this in a bit later.

Charles

matt_isserstedt · Jun 18, 2014

Just to say I have the exact same wheels as Peter. and have used them successfully on a shop-built carbide grinder I'm trying to finish up. I haven't gotten a 3000g yet (but need to!), have used the 600g for roughing and a 1200g for finishing right now. The 600g cuts very efficiently and fast in a good way.

CBlair · Jun 18, 2014

I also want to say something about the type of stuff I want to include in the tools and supplies sticky. I want to try and stay away from posting links or information about common stuff that can be purchased anyplace. I am hoping to keep the list small and stick to those tools specific to the task and that have limited resources to purchase from or difficult to find.

However the wheels mentioned would likely be a good fit as examples of the kinds of sharpening products that members feel work well. Kind of keep these ideas in mind when suggesting products for inclusion, I dont want to end up with a thousand page catalog.

I only put the stones mentioned by Richard because he uses those for his class and a lot of people here are interested in his classes. But in general I would like to keep away from general commodity products or services when I can. I hope you all understand, this is why I am not letting just anyone post what they want, however that also may change in time.

Charles

CBlair · Jun 18, 2014

Peter. said:
I have started using these for grinding carbide tips. I have two, 1200 and 3000 grit. 1200 I use for grinding the radius and 3000 for putting on the cutting angle before lapping. Actually they cut extremely well just with the 3000 but the edge is not as keen as lapping nor lasts as long. I made a backing plate for my 6" grinder from a piece of 1/2" aluminium.

View attachment 109769

I've added a picture instead of a link because the link will expire but the picture will allow you to find them on eBay. At £8 delivered they are great value and both arrived within days. UK guys be sure to only order one at a time to keep below the £15 customs threshold.

I did try to use the back as a lap but it's not viable. It works but too much pressure gouges the disc and it's already very thin.

Peter are these disks the kind of product used for grinding stones for jewelry? How are you using them, you mentioned a backing plate and then said that it gouges the disc? Or am I reading it wrong, sorry for the confusion, I just want to get it right.

Charles

matt_isserstedt · Jun 18, 2014

I just put these thin diamond wheels on the mill and pop in 3 x 3/16" holes on a 1.25" bolt circle. Using those with #10-24 button heads, I secure to a backing plate with a hub that's turned by a 1/3hp electric motor running @ 8.1Hz. I use CRC Natural Degreaser (orange-smelling grease cutting liquid) as the working fluid. Its a shameless copy of the Glendo/Accufinish concept but about $1800.00 less.

CBlair · Jun 18, 2014

Peter. said:
So do you not want this kind of stuff offered for including?

Peter I have added the information, didnt quite come out like I planned but I figure most people will get the idea.

Charles

SAG 180 · Jun 18, 2014

CBlair said:
Peter are these disks the kind of product used for grinding stones for jewelry? How are you using them, you mentioned a backing plate and then said that it gouges the disc? Or am I reading it wrong, sorry for the confusion, I just want to get it right.

Charles

Those laps are used for gem faceting machines, they are available in 6" and 8" diameter and normally used by attaching to an aluminium disc base with a precut, thin double sided adhesive film. When worn out, you heat the whole assembly in the oven and remove the diamond top from the base and reuse the base disc. The finer grits of 600 grit and higher do wear out quickly and a lot of gem facetors use copper or bronze laps (discs) and charge them with diamond powder by using a roller handle made from a couple of ball bearings attached to one end of the handle.

Machining a copper lap can be tricky as a 3 jaw chuck will distort the surface into a three leaf clover shape so they are usually attached to a cast iron or steel plate that is clamped in the lathe chuck and faced off true beforehand, with a socket head cap screw in the middle to clamp the copper lap. That way they are machined true with the same clamping method as they have when in use. When machining an old lap surface you use the same procedure but you have to get below the surface of embedded diamond with the lathe tool or you lose the sharp edge immediately. Your lathe tool will end up with tiny narrow slit like a saw cut where the diamond surface erodes the tool steel so use an old bit of tool steel rather than some expensive carbide insert.

CBlair?: Please delete this post if it's too much of a digression or sidetrack to the topic at hand

Peter. · Jun 19, 2014

CBlair said:
Peter are these disks the kind of product used for grinding stones for jewelry? How are you using them, you mentioned a backing plate and then said that it gouges the disc? Or am I reading it wrong, sorry for the confusion, I just want to get it right.

Charles

Yes that's exactly what they are. At only a couple of mm thick they are too thin to use alone in a bench grinder so I turned a backing plate from 1\2" aluminium. I figured that the plain back of the grinding disc (or indeed the ally backing plate) would make a good lap by flipping it on the grinder to give a kind of 2-for-1 deal for someone setting up for scraping in a small shop but alas the carbide tip just gouged the surface unless you were extremely careful.

CBlair · Jun 19, 2014

Ok now I understand what you are saying, as long as you use the abrasive side they cut the tool. When you try and use the back there isnt enough material to take the pressure of lapping and the plates bend. Thanks I just sort of missed that somehow on your first description.

Charles

SAG 180 · Jun 19, 2014

CBlair said:
Ok now I understand what you are saying, as long as you use the abrasive side they cut the tool. When you try and use the back there isnt enough material to take the pressure of lapping and the plates bend. Thanks I just sort of missed that somehow on your first description.

Charles

They are intended as replacement tops for one of these when they are worn out:

In normal gem faceting use they are permanently stuck to a backing plate/disc using a thin film of double sided adhesive, they are disposable as they are just a thin dusting of diamond on the lap surface held down with a layer of electroplated metal. For coarser diamond grits like 120 grit they are quite long lasting but for the finer grits like 1200 up they do wear out relatively fast compared to the 120 grit: I suspect the plating for finer grits is thinner for the smaller grit sizes and once the plating wears the diamond particles can break free. There are some 4 inch resin bonded cup wheels on Ebay which have a thick rim of resin with diamond mixed into the resin which so far seem to be lasting longer ( for me at least) than the plated version of the same thing. You can recycle the backing disc as the adhesive film is hot melt and lets go when hot.

CBlair · Jun 19, 2014

Thanks, my father actually has a lapidary machine and I should have asked him. To be honest I never paid much attention to how the disks were made. Now I will have to go over to his bench and snoop.

Charles

SAG 180 · Jun 19, 2014

CBlair said:
Thanks, my father actually has a lapidary machine and I should have asked him. To be honest I never paid much attention to how the disks were made. Now I will have to go over to his bench and snoop.

Charles

While I think of it, it's critical that they be used wet: they normally have a vertical spindle so the lap is horizontal and water can drip onto the centre: I just killed a 100 grit plated cup wheel a few weeks ago by using it dry at low speed to touch up some glass which is a trivial task when running wet.

Sticky for posting tools and supplies for scraping

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