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Is my Biax flaker missing a part?

v22

Aluminum
Joined
Aug 27, 2014
Location
Australia
I recently cracked my Biax HM10 out of its box to do some practicing. I noticed that it was not creating the nice half moon pattern. The end reciprocating nose piece seems to be loose. I can slide the blade it back and forth ~1 inch without any pressure. It seems like it is missing a part. My BL40 has a bushing in the nose and cannot be slid.

I have not been able to locate a cut-away to see if it is indeed missing a part. In the photos below there is a small shaft and a open eye. The eye connects to the scraper blade and this can freely move back and forth. I am not sure if this is by design?

IMG_2300.jpg IMG_2306.jpg IMG_2308.jpg IMG_2304.jpg
 
That bearing takes the thrust, and thats mostly what you push by your own arms. Its worth changing every now and then. It has a 6mm I.D. I'm going to guess its a 607 or a 626. Measure the I.D, O.D and thickness, but its a 5 buck bearing. My biggest problem is finding a 6mm set of external cir-clip key pliers, I havn't broken.

http://www.practicalmachinist.com/v...0109-my-biax-flaker-missing-part-img_2308.jpg

If you rotate over the moter. That land, orange land, has a wobble in it of about 3mm. Its a cam. It does give the main shaft positive forward movement. But only when the main shaft is pushed back agains't it. You can feel that when you try to hold the main shank back in, whislt it turning on slow.

Apart from when you push back, the main shaft / tool tip is free to float / bounce on the long pin that does the rotary, ocilation of the main shaft.

Interesting enough, there's has been one on EBay for a month, thats listed for parts or not working. That was sold, but was relisted. Even had a video, its in perfect working order.

Regards Phil.

(On Edit). Not even sure thats a design flaw. You can lay down the cutting tip, and it will sit there with out doing carnage, until you lay down on it and push forward. Allows you to place the tip, then cut in from there. Faster - faster is my only abvice to how fast to push it.
 
Thanks Jan for the link to your video. I see the action is perfectly normal. I really like the work you did on the Schaublin. Thanks for sharing!

Phil, thanks for the details on how it works and the bearing replacement. It is new to me, so learning as I go. There is not all that much information out there on the half moon flankers. Every bit of knowledge is helpful. I will have another crack at it knowing it's good to go.
 
You are welcome! Yes, I think these are able to stand some abuse. Practice on sacrifical piece before attempting the machine slide you want to flake. Just be sure to make the rows tighter than I do on the video, and at 45 degree angle to the part and series at 90 degrees to one another.
Good luck!
 
LOL.....I now know why my DVD sales are slow....lol...... Jan is in the top tier of my students and he is following thru with what I want my students to do is to pass on my teachings or knowledge. I ask all my students to pass on what I teach them, what I learned from my Dad, others Journeymen and what I have discovered from trial and error myself over the years. Jan also is a Master at You Tube and his soft spoken way of teaching reminds me of me...lol...Another thing that is amazing is the BIAX he is using is probably 50 years old. The newer models made today are like driving a Rolls Royce compared to a Chevy.

In the next few years BIAX will be coming out with some updated models as I will be consulting with them on some things I have been wanting to change for a few years. Scraping will be getting easier. The tools will change, but the skilled Craftsman will still need to have good hand eye coordination to steer the machine. Thanks to Jan the "Lost Art of Scraping" is being discovered again.

As i have always said "scraping is easy, but knowing where to scrape and how much to take off is a trade or a skill learned with many hours of practice!" It also helps to have a good teacher like Jan and Phil and a few others who make learning fun and easy. I am so proud God gave me the opportunity to teach my Trade and see how it has blossomed with the new technology of You Tube. :-) Rich
 
Hi Jan, just watched your video with you using " The African Queen " as I used to call that scraper. I used black magic marker lines at 45 degrees to space out the rows. You can rub it off after. On some really important jobs we used to have sacrificial strips clamped to the way edges to avoid that " stutter " effect when you first land the scraper on the work. Keep practising matey. That " bump " scraping looks a slow game. I could flake like the " Biax " with a nice sharp " Sandvik " scraper when I was doing it regularly. Not quite as deep and not as quick though.

Then my right shoulder/neck started giving me some grief, after that it was the Biax only for big jobs.

Regards Tyrone.
 
Thanks for the kind words Rich. I have a long journey ahead, but learning as I go (me too)
Thanks also to Tyrone.. care to elaborate why it goes by that name? Any special treatment she requires I don't know of.. ha, ha?
 
It comes from the old black and white film with Humphrey Bogart and Katherine Hepburn of the same name. It was an old steam powered launch but it keep going under all sorts of conditions.

Regards Tyrone.
 
Small world sometime. One of the students at the Oslo Scraping class has a steam boat that looks like the African Queen...That was one of my favorite movies....the looks he could make...what an actor...when she poured out his Gin....lol.... Edvin built his boat before he got interested in scraping. Here is his website. Pretty amazing. STEAMBOAT MISSISEIPI - www.missiseipi.com
 
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Now that the auction is finished. This is the machine I mentioned yesterday.

You can see a video of it, in the EBay add. Its perfectly normal.

Used Dapra Biax 8 Em Powers on Flaker Scraper w Biax R90 | eBay

It sold for $800ish two weeks ago. Who ever bought it must have thought it was broken too, and pulled out on it.

Regards Phil.

(On Edit). I have a parts list and drawing of the HM 10 mottler. Any one interested if I scan it?
 
Most definitely interested in the HM10 parts list and drawing.

Give me a day or three. I'm snowed under helping a mate move factories. I think with a scan like that, I'd have to get it hosted, as the file will be large. I'm near useless at setting that sort of stuff up. R.C on the other hand, is very good at it. I can post it up to him, and he can scan it.

I can scan and email it. My address should be in my profile.

I only just noticed you're an Aussie. I have no problem photo copying it, and posting it. You wouldn't happen to be in Melbourne? Your welcome to drop in at any stage.

Regards Phil.
 
I only just noticed you're an Aussie. I have no problem photo copying it, and posting it. You wouldn't happen to be in Melbourne? Your welcome to drop in at any stage.

Regards Phil.

He's a Tasmanian, not all that far away from me.

About time you took a Tasmanian holiday IMO but I expect I'll be seeing you in another 6 to 8 weeks as I head north. My turn to buy lunch.

PDW
 
I only just noticed you're an Aussie. I have no problem photo copying it, and posting it. You wouldn't happen to be in Melbourne? Your welcome to drop in at any stage.
Thanks Phil. I will send you a PM. Photocopy works for me and I will send you the scanned copy back.

He's a Tasmanian, not all that far away from me.

About time you took a Tasmanian holiday IMO but I expect I'll be seeing you in another 6 to 8 weeks as I head north. My turn to buy lunch.

PDW
Yep. 20mins from PDW.

+1 to the Phil Tasmanian holiday. I have a Deckel and now a newly acquired Boley 5LZ that could both do with a master rescrape.. :wall:
 








 
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