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10" w/ Taper Attachment Roller Thrust Bearing

mooka89

Plastic
Joined
Mar 4, 2019
I have a 10" SB with a taper attachment. I've had this project going for longer than I care to admit, but I'm getting close! Anyhow, I was hoping to replace the roller thrust bearing pictured. It is placed at the rear of the crossfeed screw. What have you guys used when replacing these in the past? Also, does anyone have a picture they could provide of the bearing and washer stack up? Any feedback is appreciated, thank you!
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I could be wrong on this, but I don't think you'll find that style of side thrust bearing new anymore.

Some hand wheels for crossfeed use that style as well, and Im thinking what guys have done is use a 3 piece needle bearing as replacement. where the two outer pieces are races that look like flat washers. The center piece being a series of caged needle bearings. The 3 together make a sandwich.

What you would need is inner and outer diameters, then search it up with a bearing company, mcmaster car, maybe grainger. Its not all that difficult just a little leg work.

For thickness, the needle bearing type will most likely be thinner, so you'll need to space it out with washers or a spacer you make.

Alternatively, you might make a brass thrust washer for the whole thickness. Cut some little oil channels on the sides and keep it lubed till you work out what you want. Tension on locking nut shouldn't be too great, you just don't want crossfeed screw moving back and forth, or pulling out of hole. So maybe just run the first nut up with your fingers, but lock 2nd nut tight to first. You want for crossfeed screw to spin nice.
 
I just attempted to "upgrade" my 13" to use thrust bearings instead of bronze bearings. It only sort of worked.

That cup style roller bearing is going to be hard to impossible to find. And it is not needed.

Your critical requirements are that the I.D. of the thrust bearing be correct for the screw. It should be 3/8". The O.D. of the thrust bearing should fit inside that bore on the back of the casting. MSCDirect, McMasters and likely a dozen other people will sell you those bearings. You will need to get the thrust washers that go with the bearings as well.

Once you have the stack in place, you are going to need a spacer. The spacer has to have the correct I.D. and O.D to match your thrust bearing. Easy enough to make. Steel is fine for it as it is just a spacer.

The thickness of the stack: Thrust washer, thrust bearing, thrust washer, spacer has to be thick enough so that when you tighten the nut with the rest of the stack that you put a pre-load on the thrust washer stack.

What is the condition of the thrust washer on the other side of that tube?

You should have a collar on the screw, then a thrust bearing stack. Then the tube that goes through the Taper Attachment casting. That tube is normally held in place with a taper pin. The tube has radial bearings in it to keep the tail of the screw from moving. After the tube is the thrust bearing stack that you are looking at in the picture above.

If you are replacing one set of thrust bearings, you likely should replace the others as well.
 
Thank you guys, I appreciate the info!

I had ordered some 3/32" balls to try in that bearing as the old ones micd at .0931". If I fail miserably at getting that bronze to accept them I will just order the one shared above. I have the hardened washers and the spacer still, and honestly the cross feed doesn't feel bad running it minus one ball in the bearing... Unfortunately, if I know it ain't right my brain wont let me leave well enough alone! I will follow up when I get those balls in tomorrow and let you guys know if it works out.

-Mike

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