Solved
I figured this out so I'll answer my own post in case someone in the future has the same question. I had been following along in the book, A Guide to Renovating the South Bend Lathe, and this was the cause of my confusion. My 10k is appears to be slightly different than described in the book. In addition, the sequence of the steps is questionable.
To remove the back gear, the book first has you rotate the handle to get access to the taper pin and then remove the taper pin from the handle on the back gear. The next step is to rotate the handle back to get access to the taper pin on the other end the shaft that secures that end to the right side eccentric bushing to knock it out. The handle is essentially an eccentric bushing in alignment with the eccentric bushing on the other end. With the taper pin removed from the handle when I rotated it back all it did was revolve around the shaft and binded the back gear shaft since it was now out of alignment with the eccentric bushing on the other end. I could not budge it.
Thus I had no access to the taper pin and no way to remove it. Hence my question posted above. In the end, I didn't need to remove the pin as called for in the book. The shaft can be removed easily with the pin in place. As a matter of fact, I see no reason to remove the pin at all unless the shaft or bushing is damaged.
I'm not knocking the book at all. It was will worth the money and I would highly recommend it. Just pointing out a potential gotcha that someone else may be able to avoid.
