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stubborn apron screws series O 11"

R

reddogforge

Plastic
Joined
Oct 15, 2017
heya folks, ive finally gotten around to starting the resto on my series O 11", im in the teardown. the apron screws wont budge and im scared to death of chewing them up. id need this lathe to replace the screws lol. parts are insanely hard to find for this particular model.
any suggestions out there?
I was thinking torch to try to loosen from expansion and maybe cook off some of the dang house paint layers the previous owner so liberally applied to EVERYTHING and use a big damn flathead...but figured I should chime in here for any advice suggestions.
thanks ahead of time!
Shane
also why does my browser query facebook when i try to upload a picture from my computer....a image thats directly off my camera and on my computer...thats weird.
apron screw1.jpg
 
Get a drag link that will fit the screw completely and use an impact wrench. If you remove the gear box,the leadscrew and the rear holder, the carriage should slide off toward the rear entirely. Then you could work on it on your bench.
 
Try a couple whacks at tightening the screw first, then backing it out. Sometimes this technique is enough
to break the threads free. Has worked for me.

PMc
 
I could't wait for the set so I made a tip that would go in there from a 5/8" chisel.

P1050453.jpg

P1050454.jpg
 
mag drill.jpgI had mortally hell with one of mine as well, broke every slotted impact bit i had, I ended up using my mag drill. measured dpth of the counter sink on the ones i got out, got centered up, drilled a smallish pilot then drilled one more the size of the bolt body to depth, then one just under the head size to just shy of depth, then grinded the tip off that big bit, made me sort of a poor mans mill. cleaned it out to were bolt finally gave up and only had a little head left in the saddle, took all friggin day. may have not been the most "machinest way" but poor man got poor ways!
 
jmdriller41 said:
View attachment 287621I had mortally hell with one of mine as well, broke every slotted impact bit i had, I ended up using my mag drill. measured dpth of the counter sink on the ones i got out, got centered up, drilled a smallish pilot then drilled one more the size of the bolt body to depth, then one just under the head size to just shy of depth, then grinded the tip off that big bit, made me sort of a poor mans mill. cleaned it out to were bolt finally gave up and only had a little head left in the saddle, took all friggin day. may have not been the most "machinest way" but poor man got poor ways!
Click to expand...

Crap...what a pain! Does heat work in these situations?

View attachment 287635
 
pavt said:
Ja. It has to have a flat grind, like a gunsmiths screwdriver. Looks like the re-ground chisel is handy to put a wrench on it. I would just go fishing on eBay for the socket, but thats just me being anal about it.
Click to expand...

I used a metric crescent wrench on the flat of the chisel and it was good to have the torque down low. I "would" have scoured eBay for drag link sockets but I didn't know what they were! :confused:
 
so my drag link socket came today. put it in my lil dewalt impact driver, bam! easy peasey!! thanks again everyone....waiting now on a set of them because theres stuck slotteds holding the rack to the underside of the bed as well :D
 
In the same boat with my sb16, these things have completely chewed up everything I’ve thrown at them and to avoid the inevitable stripped or damaged fastener you get using the wrong tools I bucked up and ordered my drag link from Grainger, hopefully it’ll be apart Monday (when Grainger gets my socket)
 
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