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1939 South Bend Lathe (9in x 4ft)

sddutch

Plastic
Joined
Oct 4, 2018
I recently purchased a South Bend lathe, catalog number 456A, and I am trying to find out more information about it. I ordered and received the serial card from the South Bend Company, but I am not sure how to interpret the information on the card. The serial card says it was made in 1939 and it is 9 inch x 4 feet.

I am going to have to move this thing down into my basement and I would like to have some idea of how much it weighs.

Any help would be appreciated. Thanks in advance.

sddutch
 
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Re- your q about thread dial-

the dial for a "heavy 10" will fit your "wide 9".....note that a 10k is NOT a heavy 10"...you want one from a 10L or 10R( both of these are heavy 10s)
 
iwananew10K,

It has been awhile since I lasted posted to this forum and I recently (yesterday) moved my lathe from the storage unit to my house. While I was waiting to move the lathe, I purchased a thread dial for the Heavy 10, and although the 32 tooth gear fits the lead screw, the overall size and length of the thread dial is different and I will have to create some type of device to attach it to the lathe in order for it to work.

The screw hole in the apron of my lathe is 3/16ths in diameter and the screw and hole for the Heavy 10 thread dial is 5/16ths in diameter. The overall length of the Heavy 10 thread dial is too short.

When I was searching the internet, I saw a thread dial for a Logan 10"/11" lathe and it looks like it might fit, but I am not willing to spend the money without knowing for sure that it fits.

I have been searching the internet for parts such as the hand lever tailstock attachment, the milling attachment, and the thread dial. The wires for the motor crack every time I attempt to move them and I think they need to be replaced, but I am not an electrical guru by any means, and I am going to need some help rewiring the lathe.
 
Don't taken his as gospel,but since they didn't all come with thread dials it is possible someone drilled and tapped it for something they made or modified.

You may have to just make a new hole and tap it...if you can post a pic so we can tell what's up and if you have the right parts.
 
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There is some missing and maybe some wrong information regarding the threading dial used on that machine in SBLs literature. The thing you must know is that the worm wheel on the one that will work on that machine has 32 teeth. I printed all that stuff years ago before I retired. There is some crossover on those dials and I can’t exactly sort it out. Just make sure the one you get has a 32 tooth wormwheel not a 24 tooth wheel. One thing common to the three cut sheets that I have is flipping or inverting the worm wheel for one size of lathe. This puts the hub of the wheel on the opposite side changing the effective length of the unit.
 
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As you requested, here is a picture of the apron on my SBL 9 inch model A lathe. I labeled the picture and you might have to zoom in to see it. I can easily adapt the SBL 10 inch thread dial to work with my SBL 9 inch lathe.South Bend 9 Inch Lathe Model A and 10 Inch Thread Dial - Edit 01.jpg
 
that hole is not for the dial at all and is not related.
there are no holes in your apron for the dial.

that raised area the hole is in is typically used for a carriage stop to bump against, not real sure why someone drilled and tapped it, must have had some reason.
 
I'm not sure what happened to my first attempt to post a picture, but here it is again. You might have to zoom in on the picture to see the labels that I created on the photo. I can easily adapt the SBL 10 inch thread dial to my SBL 9 inch lathe.South Bend 9 Inch Lathe Model A and 10 Inch Thread Dial - Edit 01.jpg
 
As you requested, here is a picture of the apron on my SBL 9 inch model A lathe. I labeled the picture and you might have to zoom in to see it. I can easily adapt the SBL 10 inch thread dial to work with my SBL 9 inch lathe.View attachment 246877

On the 1943 9a in my garage the thread dial is mounted to the side of the apron and not in the boss on the carriage.
I used the Grizzly thread dial stuff. It is a new casting and was like $52 shipped.

DSCN0002.jpg
 
Thanks. Do you know what that hole is for? Can I use it to adapt a thread dial without screwing something up?

You have probably guessed by my questions that I am new (very limited experience) to lathes.
 
Just wanted to add that I do not believe the lead screw on a Logan 10/11 is the same as a SB of that vintage. So I don't believe that Logan thread dial would work.

I own several Logan's and had to buy a thread dial body from e-bay and cut my own gear to match the lead screw when I added a thread dial to my SB 13".
 
You have the right dial.
If you are reluctant to drill/tap your apron then you could simply stick it on with something like this- even though it says permanent it can be removed if you ever want to drill....it'll get you going in the meantime.
https://www.homedepot.com/p/3M-Scot...-Sided-Extreme-Mounting-Tape-414-48/205532219


In any case do not expect that the marks will be in time until you clock the gear to the leadscrew....if you go the stick on route you may have to make a temporary witness mark on the dial body...a little dab of paint or something.
 
Even if he goes the stick rout he can clock in the dial just by loosening the set screw and moving the carriage until the marks line up,then retightening the setscrew.
If the wormwheel won’t center on the leadscrew in either mode you may be able to make a bushing that will put it on center with the wheel in the shorter mode. Making the measurement for the bushing should be a challenge.takes three hands.
I’m betting it will fit in one direction or the other,as Iwanna said.
 
Even if he goes the stick rout he can clock in the dial just by loosening the set screw and moving the parts around until the marks line up,then retightening the setscrew.
If he follows the directions in the ATT-95 cut sheet that's in this thread the mode of the wormwheel should be revealed by how the thing looks and fits under the saddle casting with the wheel in each mode.This goes for the sticky method or the drill and tap method.
The stop pin I think I would not bother with unless authenticity is an issue.The next generation of threading dial (a massive square thing)does not have any stop device at all.I have one on my 13" and it works fine with the same 5/16 18 screw.
 








 
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