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1941 South Bend 10L

bianiro

Plastic
Joined
Jun 16, 2020
Location
Cleveland
Hello All,

A few months ago I purchased a South Bend 10L (S/N 114345) which per the S/N list on WSWells, I believe to be from 1941. I purchased a "Rebuild Kit" from ILION Industrial Services, which I have seen mentioned on this forum a few times. I have slowly been working on the machine, but have a few questions that I am hoping someone here may be able to answer.

I have began work on the headstock, as I needed to replace my back gear. I am to the point where I need to remove the spindle, but I have been hesitant to do so as it appears my spindle bearings vary from the ones shown in the guidebook, I lack the bearing expander screws on top of the bearing caps, which made me wonder if my spindle bearings are integral to the lathe rather than being removable bronze bearings?

The other issue I have ran in to is the taper pin that holds the half nut lever on to the shaft it actuates, The other two taper pins came out relatively easily, but this one appears to be stuck, I have used the tips in the back of the guidebook to no avail, and am to the point of looking to drill the pin out and re ream for a new taper pin, is there any other tips or tricks that could be offered before I go to that extreme?

This is my first forray in to machine rebuilding, so I am learning a fair amount as I work through the process, I'm hoping someone here can share some knowledge with me to help me keep moving along on the machine.
 
I have a 1943 Heavy 10. The spindle bearings are Cast iron and integral with the cap and headstock. Just undo the two cap bolts and lift it out. Are you sure you are pounding on the small end of the pin?
 
My 41 10L had been rebuilt and bed rescraped at some point so it hasent been bad. I however have not gotten in the apron yet. The spindle bearings are integral cast iron.

Taper pins can cause problems as can gib keys. I have worked on a few new holland farm implements they love there gib keys.

I would carefully heat the shaft and leaver hub to a dull red with a #1 tip on a oxyfuel torch. Then let it cool completely on the bench and make certain you know which end is the small end and try to punch it out again use a 1lb hammer or bigger don't use a brass punch use a steel one. The heat will cause the parts to expand at different rates which should make it let go. If that doesn't work you will have to drill it and you might have to go up a size.
 
The trick with taper pins is to hit the small end hard with a SHORT steel punch, while pushing against the back side of the casting with something really solid. I use an aluminum V-block placed on the concrete floor. Even still, I do have to drill occasionally.
 
Wish I would have seen this before I purchased the machine... I knew I was purchasing a project machine but as I've dug in to it I've been a bit less than thrilled about some of what I've found. Too late to return it now though. So far I've gotten it mostly apart and gotten a replacement back gear for it. I't definitely needs some love, I'm going to have to get it ground and rescraped. You didnt happen to get the serial number card for the machine did you?
 
Wish I would have seen this before I purchased the machine... I knew I was purchasing a project machine but as I've dug in to it I've been a bit less than thrilled about some of what I've found. Too late to return it now though. So far I've gotten it mostly apart and gotten a replacement back gear for it. I't definitely needs some love, I'm going to have to get it ground and rescraped. You didnt happen to get the serial number card for the machine did you?

That would be a big expensive project :eek:
I have a better idea :)...see this Craig’s list ad:
South Bend Lathe 10L(aka Heavy 10) - tools - by owner - sale
Late model with a cam-loc spindle, long hard bed, ready to use.
Yeah, it’s mine :rolleyes5:
Ted
 
Sorry I did not get a serial card as I didn’t get that far before giving up on her altogether. Your bed is not hardened so you wouldn’t have it ground normally instead you would get it planed (a giant scraper that scrapes the bed true) then if you wanted you could have it “flaked”/ hand scraped for oil retention. The flaking is technically optional. It’s not near as hard to find a planer as it is a grinder of size.

Are you really in Cleveland because I’m down in Cincinnati, I have a SB16 and index 55 knee mill now if needed and would be glad to help ya get things sorted out on your 10L but we’re about 4 hours from each other and I (as most) are often very busy.

The corona virus doesn’t scare me, the news is fear mongering like usual

And how much did you give for her? Originally I paid 1030$ plus tax and ship but I also bought a index knee mill at the same time for 370$ +tax n ship.
My total was 1,956$ shipped.

I returned the 10L for 1030$ and put down 400$ more for a total of around 1650$ Out the door for my SB16, I trailered the 10L up to hgr and trailered the SB16 back down on my own
 
Sorry I did not get a serial card as I didn’t get that far before giving up on her altogether. Your bed is not hardened so you wouldn’t have it ground normally instead you would get it planed (a giant scraper that scrapes the bed true) then if you wanted you could have it “flaked”/ hand scraped for oil retention. The flaking is technically optional. It’s not near as hard to find a planer as it is a grinder of size.

Are you really in Cleveland because I’m down in Cincinnati, I have a SB16 and index 55 knee mill now if needed and would be glad to help ya get things sorted out on your 10L but we’re about 4 hours from each other and I (as most) are often very busy.

The corona virus doesn’t scare me, the news is fear mongering like usual

And how much did you give for her? Originally I paid 1030$ plus tax and ship but I also bought a index knee mill at the same time for 370$ +tax n ship.
My total was 1,956$ shipped.

I returned the 10L for 1030$ and put down 400$ more for a total of around 1650$ Out the door for my SB16, I trailered the 10L up to hgr and trailered the SB16 back down on my own

I'll PM you. Thanks.
 
Pics are always welcome. Have you talked to sblatheman for some parts? I just bought from him and he’s very professional.

How are you making a new lead screw?
Also I’ve seen others pour epoxy into the half nuts (clean with brake kleen very well!) and lubricate the lead screw with light oil and the. Press the half nuts together around the lead screw and let it cure. Epoxy is very strong and will last a while!

EDIT!!!: I was incorrect when I said to put both half nuts together around the lead screw! If you do that it may still work but you will have to unscrew the half nuts all the was off the end of your lead screw and then slice the half nuts apart. A better option may be keeping the half nuts separate and useing what’s left of the threads as an end stop. Put both half nuts onto the Lead screw and push them Opposite directions to set the threads in the halfnuts correctly
 
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I have not talked to sblatheman for any parts at this time. I will be making the required parts myself. I will be turning a new leadscrew and boring out then relining the halfnuts with a bronze sleeve.
 
Not in house, but I have access to multiple via work.

Nice, that’s more then I can say. I have access to a Milwaukee bag of tools at work and they usually follow me home in my van then get used in the garage and the next morning forgotten an left behind in the garage.

We all love pictures on here, gobble them up the kibble n bits
 








 
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