1942 SB10L - Part Numbers?
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  1. #1
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    Default 1942 SB10L - Part Numbers?

    Hello gang!
    I just bought a SB10L in rough condition and I am having a heck of a time finding the parts to get it back up and running again. I called Grizzly but they won't look through their drawings to pull the part numbers I need and they won't quote me without the part numbers! I bought the line card from them and will post it to the registry soon. I am hoping some of you will have some advice on part numbers or maybe even a good line on some vendors that might have these items. A lot of the ones in the vendor sticky are no longer in operation, it seems.

    SN 133765
    Cat Number 8187-YN

    Looking for:
    -Complete cross slide screw assembly, including dials and acme nut
    -Cross slide Gibs/screw
    -Complete tail stock, including mounting bracket

    I looked up part numbers in the documentation I found linked here, but the part numbers are pretty sparse. for instance, the PN for the cross slide screw is simply listed as "224" .. shared with all models of SB lathes of the era. It seems that the original SB company would take this item number and your SN to determine which part you need. Is there a more verbose version of these numbers that the Grizzly parts department would understand?

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    The lathe you list is a tool room lathe, it generally had a taper attachment, which is a different cross feed screw assembly than a non-taper assembly.
    The older style taper screw had a 7/16 OD rear slide shaft without bearings, the newer style had a 3/8 OD with thrust bearing and large dials on it.
    you can replace the rear binder tube with the later 3/8 ID one and install a complete newer style assembly.
    The Gibs are the same and the tailstock will interchange also. There are other parts that are not the same, so ask questions here first.
    For the parts you listed use the later modern parts lists.

    Parts: South Bend Lathe Parts Lists

    Steve

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    Wow thank you Steve! You are the SB legend! I combed your site for hours already, not sure how I missed that page. That was definitely the info I needed.

    I got to dig in and start the cleaning today, found quite a few head scratchers that make me think this is some sort of frankenstien's monster lathe.

    Off to a crusty start. This is roughly as I received it, after replacing the broken foot and hoisting it up onto the cabinet.
    img_5854.jpg

    Well, thought this was a heavy. Maybe it WAS a heavy then someone snatched the heavy head and put on a 10R head??? Humph.
    img_5847.jpg

    Lots of broken levers and brackets to try and weld or SiBr back into functioning. Seems like it had a rough life being tossed around from owner to owner.
    img_5849.jpg
    img_5850.jpg
    img_5851.jpg

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    img_5846.jpg

    Navy stamp with two broken support screws
    img_5852.jpg

    Looks like it did have the taper attachment. Not really interested in replacing this.
    img_5853.jpg

    And now mostly all together with a quick scrubbing. Need to pick which of my motor pile to adapt first.
    img_5855.jpg

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    Oh man, she’s had a rough life! Good luck, she’s a beauty. I’d love a cabinet model like that

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    10R and 10L are both a "heavy 10", not just the the 10L. It is just a nickname distinguishing them from a 10K which is just a 9a with an extra inch of swing.

    If you wish to upgrade to a large bore spindle it is a direct swap.

    If I were you I'd find a similar machine somewhere in the country and snag it up, mash them together into one good machine and sell the rest of the parts. You'll come out way better in the long run.

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    Quote Originally Posted by hsracer201 View Post
    10R and 10L are both a "heavy 10", not just the the 10L. It is just a nickname distinguishing them from a 10K which is just a 9a with an extra inch of swing.
    The posted line card shows it as 10L and even specifies 1-3/8" Spindle Hole, which is where my confusion comes from.

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    Look through the docs on VintageMachinery. There’s a parts list on there somewhere.

    Is it missing the underdrive? It looks like someone started parting it out. How bad is the wear?

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    Quote Originally Posted by dogmeatk View Post
    The posted line card shows it as 10L and even specifies 1-3/8" Spindle Hole, which is where my confusion comes from.
    Indeed.

    Quote Originally Posted by dogmeatk View Post


    Well, thought this was a heavy. Maybe it WAS a heavy then someone snatched the heavy head and put on a 10R head??? Humph.
    The above quote threw me off. Heavy doesn't reference the spindle bore size. A 10R is still a "heavy 10."

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    Quote Originally Posted by jwearing View Post
    Is it missing the underdrive? It looks like someone started parting it out. How bad is the wear?
    No, I installed the underdrive by the last picture. Anyone have any idea what size motor pulley would have been on the motor? The motor is no longer around and it seems that they offered many, many pulley sizes. It allegedly came with a 1725 RPM motor.

    I am not sure about the wear, I am not the type of machinist to measure that type of thing. To illustrate, I do not own a micrometer or a surface plate Harbor freight digital calipers are my preferred tool for measuring my produced parts but usually I just install without measuring and if it fits, it fits. I only break out my .0005" indicator on special occasions or when dialing in runout on 1/8" or smaller carbide endmills that are spinning at 8k rpm in my VMC.

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    Is your name dog meat a reference to fallout the game?

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    Of course! Feed me iguana-on-a-stick or wear leather armor and i'll be your best friend!

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    Here’s no (appreciable) wear




    Here’s some wear



    Super easy, just get a pocket (ruler? Brain block.) from home depot for a few bucks and check your ways

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    From this page http://www.wswells.com/data/parts/912E.pdf

    It appears that SB is suggesting the swoopy 10k tailstock fits all 10" models, while the straight-barrel tailstock is only for 13"+ lathes. Even the part number on page 2 only lists one number for the casting under the 10" size. I have seen many photos of a 10R/10L on this forum with the straight-barrel type tailstock, so I know I truly do want the straight-barrel type, probably because of the wider ways. However, since I cannot find any for sale at the moment, I am pondering the option of fitting the 10K tailstock because I can see a few for sale on eBay. I imagine the vertical centerline is the same, being still a 10" lathe. I know the ways have different widths, but I can't compare in what way they are out of alignment since I have none to inspect. Do both tailstocks ride in the center of the bed, and if so, is that channel the same width between the 10K and 10R/10L? At this point, I am looking at either adapt a 10K tailstock or make my own, but I would prefer saving time by adapting the 10K.

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    The 10k tailstock is too narrow to fit the 10L bed. If you want a project I will sell you an incomplete 10L tailstock. It will still be a lot of work, you'll have to find a quill, screw, nut, handwheel, etc. FS: SB parts, mostly 10L. Tailstocks, threading stops, misc.

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    I think you’ll end up ahead if you just find another sb10 and mash them together as said.

    Have you checked HGR? They have them frequently

    Used South Bend South Bend A Lathe | HGR Industrial Surplus

    Used South Bend Lathe | HGR Industrial Surplus

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    Well thanks jwearing! I did see that a few days ago when I was thinking that I was picking up a 10K, but forgot all about it! I will definitely take those, as it beats starting from scratch.

    Thanks for the tips homebrew. For a quick cost reference, those two you posted are 2-3 times more what I paid for this gem. And the second one is missing it's tailstock, as well, so it doesn't really move the ball forward. jwearing's scraps are priced much closer to my budget for this project.

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    I’m sure you got it cheap, it’s not close to complete. The lathes I sent was just examples.

    We just see a lot of folks come and go here when they get their first lathe, some get a sour deal and spend a lot of money to fix/replace stuff farther dissuading them.

    Your Going to spend more then 750$ rebuilding that lathe just in parts I would guess.
    The taper attachment is unobtainum and when they show up they price for even incomplete ones are over 500$ alone. If you find another 10L/R and put them together you’ll actually recoup a few bucks selling the extra parts you got and end up with a MUCH better machine in the end.

    I’m not telling you how to live your life friend and your a free man to do as you wish, just some insight is all.

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    I can relate, my 10L was trashed. I shouldn't have bought it. And when I got it home and realized it was a mistake, I should have parted it out. But instead I replaced all the worn out parts, got it running perfectly, scraped it and everything. Now it's a really nice machine. But in the end it was expensive and it took a lot of work.

    Dogmeat, since you like scraps I'll throw my old cross slide gib in the box with the tailstock. I had to make a thicker one to make up for the material removed by scraping.

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    Me too jwearing, my 10L was saddle backed like I’ve never seen, seeing as I’ve never touched a lathe of any kind till that point I didn’t exactly know what to look at.

    Thankfully for me the place I bought it from had a return policy so I got to trade it out for a SB16. I couldn’t be happier going to the big southbend

    Here’s a link to my old thread, it has a photobucket link that has pictures of my 10L
    New to me (pig n a poke) index 55 mill and south bend 10 lathe


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