1942 SB10L - Part Numbers? - Page 2
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  1. #21
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    Thank you jwearing! That is most helpful!! Saves me a ton of time.

    Speaking of time, took me a good hour to free up the seized compound, but now it's moving again! I had to do a little bit of filing on the compound base, looks like someone was hutting it with a hammer and raised up a little lip that prevented it from rotating 360.

    Then I slapped in a motor ...

    Fat guy in a little coat?

    img_5859.jpg

    I know 2 HP is a bit overkill for this lathe, but it was the only spare one I had that is easily reversible. I have smaller compressor motors but still trying to wrap my brain around how to convert them to reversible motors. AC is not my core competency.

    While I wait for my belts, I have to remove the headstock so I can pull off the gearbox. The bed lead screw is seized and I need to take a look at the backside of the gearbox.

  2. #22
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    You see that cup on the chip tray under the gears on the headstock? That provides oil tight clearance for the gears on the Metric threading adapter setup. I have a lathe the same vintage as yours with the cup but the metric gearing setup was long ago replaced by the English only setup.

  3. #23
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    Hmm interesting Erich! I think I have the plate that goes there.

    And the hacking begins!
    img_5861.jpg
    Got the bracket functioning again.
    img_5863.jpg

    A start to my quickchange gear lever fix.
    img_5866.jpg
    The second prototype in progress.
    img_5867.jpg

    Currently trying to figure this push button station out ... I seem to be missing the contactors or some other component as they seem to be just momentary push buttons.
    img_5868.jpg

  4. #24
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    Quote Originally Posted by dogmeatk View Post
    Currently trying to figure this push button station out ... I seem to be missing the contactors or some other component as they seem to be just momentary push buttons.
    img_5868.jpg
    First things first. Does the lathe still have a separate box mounted to it (probably on the rear, or perhaps in the center cubby hole in the front between the drawers) with magnetic starter relays and such?

    If so the problem could lie there. If someone swiped the parts you can always go to a simple drum switch.

  5. #25
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    No, no relays or any other electrical components are present any more. I have the motor running in FWD only at the moment through a single switch, but I have a barrel switch and E-stop on the way. If anyone needs some vintage momentary push buttons, let me know.

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    Thanks for the parts jwearing! They are looking good!

    Got my lever tuned up and my switches put on, just waiting for belts and some other hardware.

    img_5872.jpg

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  8. #27
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    I machined up a new tailstock "nut" out of some mild steel and made a bolt out of some t-slot stud parts.

    I threw in the spare cross-slide gib from jwearing, but it seems to be too snug to go in all the way! Anyone have any ideas on next steps? Should I lap it down? I already checked for damage and dings on the ways, dont see anything with the naked eye.
    It only goes in this far before the cross slide is locked ...
    img_5884.jpg

    img_5885.jpg

    img_5886.jpg

  9. #28
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    You could lightly stone all surfaces. If that doesn’t help, I would check thoroughly for high spots using a bluing compound like Dykem Hi-spot Blue.

    For the non-gibbed side of the dovetail: apply the blue in a thin layer to one surface, rub the two pieces together, examine the transfer. Repeat for the other surface.

    For the gibbed side: apply the blue to both sides, then insert the gib as far as it will go. Disassemble and examine the transfer to the gib.

    If you have a high spot, this should identify it.

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  11. #29
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    Thank you again jwearing! I have some hi-spot blue and angled stones on order. I also have a used saddle assembly arriving this week, so I will have some alternate parts to pick from! And also, a cross slide screw assembly

    I got my my quick change post yesterday and machined up the nut to mount it. Also made a handle for my tailstock nut. Getting the broken stud out of the carriage handle took quite a bit of work, but I now have a hand wheel with a rotating handle that I made.

    img_5888.jpg

    I will be popping off the spindle to check the wicks today. I also can't break loose the bull gear still ... any tips?

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    Quote Originally Posted by dogmeatk View Post
    I will be popping off the spindle to check the wicks today. I also can't break loose the bull gear still ... any tips?
    How have you tried to break loose the bull gear if the spindle is still installed? I'm trying to picture what that would look like.

    I press bull gears off with a shop press.

  13. #31
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    Maybe I am using the wrong term. The gear that is pinned to the cone pulley, I have been trying to get that one to spin with the pin out by wedging the gear and spinning the spindle by hand to make sure the back gear works properly. Half of the functionality of my lathe was seized by corrosion and this is the last on my list.

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    The bull gear is keyed to the spindle. Pull the pin and the cone pulleys turn independent from the bull gear and spindle.

    Hope this helps

    Ben

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    Quote Originally Posted by BDRetz View Post
    The bull gear is keyed to the spindle. Pull the pin and the cone pulleys turn independent from the bull gear and spindle.

    Hope this helps

    Ben
    Sorry, I meant I am having trouble freeing the cone pulley, even when the pin is all the way pulled out from the bull gear. I have the one that has the "OIL" hole. I have heard mention of pumping it full of grease. Could that help to free it up?

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    The pin should pull out and DOWN right? Every Sb I’ve seen has 2 positions on that pin, mine you pull out and then down and it’ll stay

  17. #35
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    Quote Originally Posted by Homebrewblob View Post
    The pin should pull out and DOWN right? Every Sb I’ve seen has 2 positions on that pin, mine you pull out and then down and it’ll stay
    On a heavy 10 it is just a spring loaded pin that is either in or out.

    OP, remove your spindle from the headstock, press off the spindle gear on the end, unscrew the collar and remove the fiber washer, remove the bronze bearing sleeve and thrust washer and then press off the bull gear and cone pulley at the same time. Once it is all free of the spindle it will likely separate on it's own but if not a few light taps with a rubber hammer should free it.

    ETA: you may not have bronze bearing sleeves, so disregard that part if you don't. The process is the same though.
    Last edited by hsracer201; 05-20-2021 at 12:43 PM.

  18. #36
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    Successes!

    Pressed everything off the spindle and now my drum pulley spins free! I didn't have any felt washer on there. I have an iron bearing machine with ball thrust bearings, not sure if I have a felt washer at all. It makes sense that something would be in that groove between the drum and the thrust bearing to seal oil in.

    Found out why the gib wouldn't go in all the way. I tried out the prussian blue but didn't really show me much. I need more practice with that. I cleaned off all the blue and just took a good long stare at everything, that's when I noticed something funny. There was a warped spot on the dovetail of the cross slide! Must have been from some severe impact somewhere along the line. It was about 1/4" near the front corner. I filed it down and now the gib goes in!
    img_5899.jpg

    I noticed these two holes by the lead screw, am I missing a support bearing or something? I don't see it on the parts list.
    img_5889.jpg


    Progress pic with my drawer handles put back on and the start to my fabrication of gear covers. I think the stock covers are bolted down, right? I am thinking I might connect mine to the belt cover so I can flip them all up easily when I want to pull out the bull gear pin. I feel a little bad about drilling into a virgin belt cover .. I am going to think on it for a bit.
    img_5900.jpg

  19. #37
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    Factory covers have a flip-up guard so you can pull the pin out and press it back in without removing anything.

    4d85cc15-9486-4b07-851c-55577f9c4836.jpg

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  21. #38
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    d916b691-dae5-4d52-bbeb-4e11ee1f55a0.jpg

    I’m fighting my phone here. Had to put each pic in its own post and they’re flipped sideways...

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  23. #39
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    Quote Originally Posted by hsracer201 View Post

    I’m fighting my phone here. Had to put each pic in its own post and they’re flipped sideways...
    Well that makes more sense! I can replicate that, no problemo.

  24. #40
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    First chips! Thanks to Brian Miller at Miller Machine for the tailstock parts and great lead on a used saddle on ebay that gave me the cross slide screw assembly and dials.

    Also thanks to BDRetz who sold me some other tail stock parts, including a dial!

    Got a lube kit from ebay that came with replacement felts and wicks, then started her up! Cuts great, its nice to have a lathe with a power cross-feed finally.

    img_5902.jpg

    I started looking for chuck and back plates, but most of the ones available are either for the big-bore or, allegedly, the 1.5" diameter threads. I measured my threads and they have an OD of roughly 1.85". I haven't seen very much, if any, used back plates in this diameter. Is this an uncommon diameter?


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