1951 SB9 Model A Long bed

Mcandrew1894 · Jan 31, 2011

She's a cutie in a homely kinda way 1951 SouthBend 9 x 4 1/2 Model A....and some stuff

Frosting is still showing on the ways, the rust colored stuff is actually overspray primer...I came out of a automotive shop where I think it wasn't used much. Oversized dials and collet set, though I didn't see the adapter.....that's easy to come by.

I'll have fun overhauling and painting her.....she'll be pretty and functional and will be for small work.

Dave

ChuckB · Jan 31, 2011

A very nice find, with some real potential. Have fun!

Mcandrew1894 · May 19, 2011

New cross slide

Started in on a new MLA cross slide for the old girl.

Found that my VN table has a bit of a crown in it. I'll be scraping more than I intended, but this iron is WONDERFUL! Andy you do supply nice castings!

We Progress....

Dave

iwananew10K · May 19, 2011

nice! i can`t say enough good things about those t-slotted cross slides- they really come in handy and make the whole lathe feel more solid. why SB never offered one is a mystery.

Mcandrew1894 · May 27, 2011

OK

Got the dovetails cut, Need to scrape it in. Here's some photo's

Here I've just started to rough scrape the bottom. I would say the casting warped maybe .001" after all the cutting. Great iron Andy!

It is touching on the ends and high in the middle....it won't take long

I took the old cross slide table, and owing to its full display of flaking assumed it must be pretty good, so I marked it up out of curiousity. I was less than impressed actually

I would have expected better... some is wear as the lathe was filthy, but ALL the flaking is quite visible, so the wear is minor. I think some of this was there from the beginning.

We Progress. I'll scrape the bottom of the new table to a very good bearing with the plate, and then check the saddle using the cross slide as a gage. We'll see.

Dave

Mcandrew1894 · May 27, 2011

OK, after some rough scraping where getting somewhere.

I'll start finish scraping now.

rotarySMP · May 28, 2011

Good to see another classic machine tool fall into the hands of someone who improves it.

iwananew10K · May 28, 2011

yup- nice! but you are making me feel bad for not scraping my MLA cross slide in- i guess i need to get a surface plate and start practicing!

Mcandrew1894 · May 28, 2011

Iwananew10k and rotartysmp

Thankyou for your kind comments and support!

iwananew10K yup- nice! but you are making me feel bad for not scraping my MLA cross slide in- i guess i need to get a surface plate and start practicing!

Well, based on my findings of the old table, EVIDENTLY , it isn't required!, as even with the issues with my mill, it wasn't that far away from the factory table.
If your mill is in better shape than mine, you may not need to.

And another thing, the bearing area on the Tslotted cross slide, as machined, is MUCH bigger than the stock table scraped in ...at least in my estimation. But what the hell....

Dave

Mcandrew1894 · May 28, 2011

OK....now to mark the saddle, just to check.....I HOPE!

Dave

rotarySMP · May 28, 2011

Will you be rescraping the bed? Sounds like it probably isn't needed.

Mcandrew1894 · May 28, 2011

God I hope not!

The Saddle has some damage from neglect. Congeled oil and grit did a number on it...I'll show the mark up which wasn't pretty. It would appear the gib side allowed grit/dirt to get in and it scored the saddle ways....not real bad, but bad enough...maybe .0005"

The guided side towards the headstock was much better, but also damaged

I needed to take a few cycles and then flake the surface....It's much better now.

I'll wait to check the dovetail surfaces until the rest of it is apart and I am sure the saddle is clean and tight on the ways.....then I'll check to make sure it turns concave instead of convex.

With that done....the dovetail surfaces will come in real fast.

Time to get the gib made and the holes put in for the gib screws, and the compound lock screws ...and then paint.

Dave

Mcandrew1894 · May 28, 2011

Well...this is what I got done today.

All marked up....keep your fingers crossed

Ahhhhh DISAPPOINTMENT!

You'll see here that a groove got worn in ..mostly on the gib side where I think dirt could get in more readily...additionally, the new table has a wider bearing, and sits on top of the unworn area's...which show as lines in the marking

After about an hour....I got most of it cleaned up

I'll leave the dovetails be until I can disassemble and clean the whole saddle, though the the lathe passed the "saddle clamp test", and the flaking shows, I"ll leave it be until later

Dave

iwananew10K · May 28, 2011

it`s interesting that the top of the saddle has flaking - on the 3 SB 9`s i have none of them have any scraping on that surface. not that it means anything. looking good!

Mcandrew1894 · May 29, 2011

Yup, the top of the factory cross slide has it also, but only on half the surface facing the user. Where it goes under the compound, it's missing

It's hand flaked also....It at least seems factory.

Dave

Mcandrew1894 · May 29, 2011

Tore down the tailstock today and stripped the paint. It's been painted at least once, but it all came off easy. There some wear similar to the cross slide on the tailstock shoe.....

It doesn't seem bad, and I'll check it later once everything is cleaned and prepped for paint.

It's a shame the shmuck didn't at least clean and oil the lathe every ONCE in a while...

Dave

Mcandrew1894 · Jun 12, 2011

Well, there's probably .010" wear on the TS shoe. Now what to do about it.

If I'm going to do this I want to fix it not shim it

I could

Make a new shoe from raw stock...seems excessive, but could be done.

Machine the shoe down and insert fresh material and remachine...a front runner at the moment.

Buy another TS and hope the shoe isn't as worn....least liked option.

What have you guys and gals done?

Dave

Mcandrew1894 · Jun 16, 2011

Pulled the end bell off the motor. The shaft is worn -.010" at the ball bearing while the ID of the ball bearing is +.010....toast

I would call that one terminal.....especially considering it's not a SouthBend motor but a Craftsman....complete with base mounted toggle switch left in the ON

The countershaft is a steel shaft on iron bearing with wick affair. The shaft is worn about .010 at the journals. It's 7/8 so I'll use 1144 TGP to replace it.

Anybody know what size taper pin reamer is needed for the pulley pin off the top of their heads?
Otherwise I'll dig it out and figure it out.

Dave

Mcandrew1894 · Jun 16, 2011

Well, looking at the price of 1144TGP ....I turned up a new shaft from my existing stock.

The bearings have about .010 wear in them. I am considering boring them out and bushing them down. Anybody done this? If I do it will be on the lathe with a bar between centers.

Dave

Mcandrew1894 · Jun 18, 2011

Well, the bores for the countershafts are done. I did it with a between centers boring bar and a made up boring table. I installed Oilite bronze bushings in place of the worn cast iron along with a new shaft that I made yesterday...here's some photo's

In the next picture I have a stub shaft in the headstock the same size as the existing bore. When the part was shimmed to the correct height, the pin would slip right in. I centerd the other end with the TS center.

All Better! ;D

Dave

1951 SB9 Model A Long bed

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