'37 9L peculiarity?
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  1. #1
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    Default '37 9L peculiarity?

    I don't recall seeing this before, though my memory may be off....note the separate plate for the reverser detents-

    image.jpg


    I'm sure there will be more little details that may be a bit "different" as my understanding is this was the first of the large bore 9's.

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    That’s pretty nifty. Once you start getting some play in it from wear you can just swap the plate. Wouldn’t mind that on my 13”.

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    my thought also, Stephen...if it weren't for the H100 stamping I would have thought it was an older repair.

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    Is the casting bored behind as well or is it only the plate? This would also give you the capability to adjust the gear mesh clearances if you needed to.

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    That's gonna be a question for the ages...I gave a half hearted attempt to loosen the screws, but they didn't want to budge...not risking it.

    A point of interest may be that the feed screw nuts are all cast iron.

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    this is embarrassing...some thing I can do some I can't....apparently getting the worm out of the apron is one of the things I can't....pin too small, can't see it well and can't control my arms and hands well enough....embarrassing.

    so a question, the LH star wheel screw is broken off so have to do something there...can you take the clutch apart for cleaning and fix or replace the shaft with the worm in place?...I know it needs new wicking too but I think I may be able to fish that through.

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    Quote Originally Posted by iwananew10K View Post
    That's gonna be a question for the ages...I gave a half hearted attempt to loosen the screws, but they didn't want to budge...not risking it.

    A point of interest may be that the feed screw nuts are all cast iron.
    I believe originally all of them used cast iron feed nuts. Half nuts are cast iron on most if not all older south bends. If it’s good enough for the ways why wouldn’t it be good enough for the nuts as well? It’s typically harder than brass or bronze so I’d wonder if the screws would have some advanced wear issues. I’m still of the opinion that cast iron is better than brass for feed nuts, not quite bronze level but significantly more affordable.

    Can you shine a light and see how deep the holes are? With a pick you could probably feel for a lip where the plate ends and casting starts. I don’t seem to remember the locking posts being that long on mine but yours is different obviously.

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    Quote Originally Posted by iwananew10K View Post
    this is embarrassing...some thing I can do some I can't....apparently getting the worm out of the apron is one of the things I can't....pin too small, can't see it well and can't control my arms and hands well enough....embarrassing.

    so a question, the LH star wheel screw is broken off so have to do something there...can you take the clutch apart for cleaning and fix or replace the shaft with the worm in place?...I know it needs new wicking too but I think I may be able to fish that through.
    Nothing to be lost from trying.

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    Quote Originally Posted by iwananew10K View Post
    this is embarrassing...some thing I can do some I can't....apparently getting the worm out of the apron is one of the things I can't....pin too small, can't see it well and can't control my arms and hands well enough....embarrassing.

    so a question, the LH star wheel screw is broken off so have to do something there...can you take the clutch apart for cleaning and fix or replace the shaft with the worm in place?...I know it needs new wicking too but I think I may be able to fish that through.
    Unless something else has it hung up you should be able to get the shaft out while leaving the large clutch gear in place. I've trouble-shot clutch issues and swapped some plates without removing the worm.

    Edit: You'll probably want to bush or replace the worm bushings though, if they're heavily worn. Can't bush them without removing the collars.

    If you want to send it to me...

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    wish you were next door!

    there is *some* wear to the bores but not terrible, as long as I can get new wicking in there it should be OK...someone has been in here once before and tightened up some slop, re-drilled for the pin and gave it a new key.

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    at least the tags came off without incident....barring the obligatory dropping of one drive screw, which will never be seen again...surprising good condition too, just a couple scars on the SB one, should all clean up nicely.

    image.jpg

    obviously i am upside down.

    PS - casting seems solid up under the plate, and the reverser detent holes are only in the plate itself.

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    on the fence here....how much radial play would be considered excessive for the worm?

    don't want to fall in the "enemy of the good" trap.


    that big hole looks kinda funny on such a short swing...

    image.jpg

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    good news! spindle is nearly perfect!

    image.jpg


    and an unexpected surprise, wicks are not only square, but they are made of wood,or maybe cork?
    They look funny in the pic but the bores are about perfect too, they are hand scraped directly into the cast iron...catches the light strangely, the discoloration is just smears coming off the felt at the top of the cap tops.

    image.jpg

    BTW- a little known tidbit about this series is as evidenced by pg3 of this SB document, they are not back-geared lathes, they are in fact Back-Beared.

    http://www.wswells.com/data/catalog/...cat_bl_29b.pdf
    Last edited by iwananew10K; 08-12-2019 at 09:43 PM.

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    Pin9b190bb2-bd34-4210-926d-706d37521e74.jpg.

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    obligatory serial number pic- 77856

    image.jpg

    not sure of the significance but this number is on the headstock end back side- 8831

    image.jpg
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails image.jpg  

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    Chad, e-mail your shipping address to me and I'll send you the wicking for the apron.

    Steve

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    man, you guys rock.

    if I am able to see this through, the thank you list is gonna be long enough to to give my mom carpal tunnel.


    seriously considering getting it hot tanked down to bare metal and not painting it...the casting work is lovely.

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    thought maybe some of you guys might like to see this- seriously old school! They are wood and those are little saw kerfs which appear to be hand done.

    image.jpg

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    couple more ????...looking at the 1938 cat. It says 2-112tpi....this one has a 4-224tpi plate...appears to be original...seems weird given this one actually predates the cat published date.

    If I paint it not sure what general colors to use...can't tell, too many repaints, and the last one seems to be latex as hot water will loosen it up, hard to tell the original color because it wasn't cleaned first and there is grime encased in the paint layers.....normally I would not care in the slightest, and is why I am considering no paint.

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    headstock doesn't have the typical spring/shoe tensioner behind the headstock...instead it is on the end of the headstock and is not adjustable, just a short stiff spring and shoe that bears on the inside of the handle casting...see blind hole in pic-
    image.jpg

    the little hole below where you would expect to see the back gear tensioner is just for a square head set screw to lock the belt tensioner stud in place-
    image.jpg

    and I found original paint...SB gray it is.
    Last edited by iwananew10K; 08-20-2019 at 10:13 PM.


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