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82' Heavy 10 Restoration

Flash-FX

Plastic
Joined
Feb 6, 2012
Location
South Jersey, USA
Ok, since there has been no negative response towards the large picture size I asked...Here you go.

It was a 1982 heavy 10R that was headed to the scrap yard....I intercepted it.
A little rusty from being left outside. I planned on cleaning it up, without getting crazy making it a museum piece.
...Gordon

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It has a D1-4 spindle( it is a large bore)
Late model, 4 1/2' hard bed. You don't get a better than that in a 10L.
And you can't beat the price !!!
Ted
 
I want to find an opportunity where a nice 10l is going to be scrapped. They need to have these "adoption" places - like dogs, you know?
 
It has a D1-4 spindle( it is a large bore)
Late model, 4 1/2' hard bed. You don't get a better than that in a 10L.
And you can't beat the price !!!
Ted
Thanks Ted, I really got lucky with this one. You should have seen the smiles on the guys I got this from....It was in the way.

I want to find an opportunity where a nice 10l is going to be scrapped. They need to have these "adoption" places - like dogs, you know?
Yea, I need a grey bridgeport hound next, mid 60's. Good olde dog, got a spot for her...

A close look at the half nut revealed very little use, a good thing.
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Working on projects like this requires a mixed array of cleaning methods/techniques. Luckily, (over the years) I've been getting things together to make that job easier. Unfortunately, there isn't just one thing that works the best. My latest tool for cleaning stuff is this really sweet 10gal. 1000w ultrasonic cleaner (about 3 years old now). Boy,does this thing do a great job! It helps to first soak the real greasy parts in the standard "gunk tank" first, then run them in the ultrasonic cleaner to get them spotless (of grease & crap). Here's a couple pictures of a fresh clean tank with some apron parts in it. The greasy film just turns into a cloud and leaves the parts sparkling (a real time saver).
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Fresh out of the "tank".
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Most of the factory filler/primer fell off the apron casting from the tank cleaning. It looked like some old 'nitro stan' red putty that filled some casting imperfections and grind marks.
 
I am so jealous! Get yourself some wire brush wheels. Grinder size if you have one and hand drill versions. They'll work wonders on most of that.Don't use them on ways (even hardened ones I would be careful) and motion surfaces, but they do absolute wonders on castings.Great on handwheels, gears and the shift knurling (if you are careful) and especially if you follow it with a polishing wheel.
 
Just backing up here a bit, I'd like to thank all of you guys for the helpful posts over the years. This place is a wealth of experience & knowledge for anyone who wants to mess with this historic "South Bend Iron". I've learned a lot! And still learning. Take notes boys! Thanks!!!

After those parts were all cleaned and ready for paint, I moved over to the QC gearbox next. All this time I kept glancing at the cabinet, thinking it will be the biggest part of the cleanup job....Saving that for last.
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Whad you pay for the lathe and the ultrasonic cleaner?
The lathe was basically free, the Omegasonics 1420 table top cleaner was about $2600 with 10 gallons of concentrate. That was a few years ago (special promo). 14gallon stainless tank1000watt ultrasonic power with 900watt heater. I'm sure it's more today.

My basic cleaning procedure...a general guide.
1- Brush/scrape off most of the loose stuff
2- De-grease parts in standard gunk tank
3- De-gunk parts in the ultrasonic tank
4- Remove any excess material in the blast cabinet (using the appropriate blast media for the final finish needed).
5- Final cleaning prep for paint (or if bare metal finish, brush on some Corrosion X).
6- Prime, Paint, Re-assemble.

Some more pix...
Plastic blast media does a fantastic job without etching or removing any metal. The original die grinder marks are still visible like the day it was ground, inside the QC housing.
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Oh boy...the dreaded cabinet!!!
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Good deals are out there - but they often hide. My first lathe was a 9" SB that came with about 2 bushels of tooling, collets, chucks, etc - and all for the sum of $ 350.

The same story - I was happy to get it, and they were happy that it was gone. We all walked away happy.
 
Head stock housing getting the plastic bead blast treatment.

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Final cleanup before paint....

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Moving along to the bed... Too big to fit in my blast cabinet :(
I tried aircraft paint stripper, but it was too cold to work for the thickness of buildup (would have taken days). A cheezy HF needle scaler actually tore the paint & filler up pretty quick....

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Here's a couple of shots showing,(where I got crazy) the 2 coats of "bondo" on the bed. Actually the filler I use is the U-pol brand, that comes in a big bag, kinda like toothpaste. It's expensive as filler goes, but the mixing, applying, and easy sanding qualities out weighs the cost.

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SBL 10L.jpgSBL 10L test cut 2 inch bar 1.jpgSBL 10L test cut 2 inch bar 2.jpgER40 Collet Chuck D1-4 mount.jpgSBL 10L bed regrind top.jpgFlash;

Nice job of cleaning up the 10L 4.5 ft hard bed.

A few years back I found one (1985 10Lsame as yours) for $500.00. Decided to return it to new factory specs and make a tool room model of it. Spent nearly $4,000.00 on it with new regrind of the hard bed new chucks and loads of new parts. Best money I have spent in a log time.

See photos.

Regards;
Steve
 
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I have a feeling that this is going to ONE GORGEOUS machine when done. Your speed is admirable as well. Got my popcorn and am enjoying the show ;)
 








 
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