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replacing the ACME portion is actually pretty easy and a nice little project that covers basic set up+ turn/face/drill/bore operations.
Just gotta lock down the crosslide and use the compound...no biggie since the facing cuts are so short.
as for the securing of the new ACME if you simply make it a nice sliding fit into the geared portion and use loctite #680 it will last at least as long as it takes to wear out the new ACME.
ps- the geared portion on the 9" is ~.685"ish diameter....a slick way of holding it very accurately without damage and having no other means is to chuck up a piece of scrap ~3/4" or so and drill/bore it to a tight sliding fit then simply insert the geared portion and tighten the chuck a little more...basically an in-situ collet.
With the tight sliding fit even without slitting the "collet" will compress enough to firmly grip the part...and is very convenient since the entire job can be done in that single chucking.
The 9-10 NK gear blank OD is 0.683 - 0.6825, the 10L is 0.7005 - 0.700, both measure 0.7072 +- 0.001 over 0.084 wires. If you take the 0.100 cut on the 9, you may likely be too deep. Mine run around 0.0965.
Steve
I'm also getting ready to run some acme repair blanks over the weekend, the blanks are 24.95 plus 6.50 priority shipping. I have 20 new (NOS) south bend 65NK1 feed nuts for 45.00 each to go with the blanks.
These blanks are made on the South Bend factory automatic feed screw machine to SBL specs.
Steve
how would one contact you to purchase one of these acme repair blanks?
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