9A motor/drum switch wiring help
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  1. #1
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    Default 9A motor/drum switch wiring help

    I need a little help wiring up my South Bend 9a. I have a brand new 1hp marathon motor that I would like to wire up to my furnas R44 forward reverse drum switch. Below is a picture of the motor tag and the proposed wiring diagram. Do I have this set up right for 110 volts single phase?

    Thanks for the help!
    John





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    I can tell you right away that its not right because with the handle in the forward position red and black are connected. The Furnas R44 drum switch connects your numbers 1 and 4 in forward and reverse, in forward it connects 2 to 3 and 5 to 6. In reverse its 2 to 5 and 3 to 6. This again using the numbers in your diagram. Most diagrams you'll find have all the odd numbers on one side and even on the other. I would have to dig around to find my wiring diagram to tell you how mine is wired. I think if you do a search in this forum you'll find where this has been answered before.

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    Try this one.

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    Default wiring try number 2

    Thanks for the help OldMachinist. I have corrected my wiring diagram (I hope) to what you have shown in your second post. I also added the part of the tag inside of my switch that I can read. If someone sees a problem here let me know before I let the smoke out of the motor. The numbering was my own for discussion purposes. I have added a standard numbering configuration. When I got this lathe there was no motor and the drum switch wiring was cut to bits. I have done a bunch of looking on pm. Lots of references or old links with missing pictures but nothing specific to the furnas 44. I am just trying to be careful.

    Thanks
    John



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    Your new drawing is correct. I have an old Furnas R44 that I used to work out the wiring diagram.

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    Default thanks!!!

    The help is much appreciated!!!!
    Thanks,
    John

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    Default 9a runs!

    I was able to get the new motor mounted with an 1/2 inch adapter plate, new motor belt, a two step pulley from one of our great PM members, a new to me drum switch, a little bit of wiring, and it worked on the first try! I am suprised how quiet this lathe runs. WhooHoo!!! Thanks everyone for all of the help!!!

    John

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    What would you change to use 220V?

    Thanks

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    Thank you for posting this wire diagram. I was just getting ready to ask about this as I will be rewiring my lathe. I will print it out and put it in my file for future use.

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    I'm looking to connect this motor up using 220. I was wondering what the differences would be between this and the diagram above.

    Thanks


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    Here's the wiring diagram I worked out for your motor and switch.
    Last edited by OldMachinist; 12-09-2010 at 10:11 AM. Reason: Image size

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    Quote Originally Posted by OldMachinist View Post
    Here's the wiring diagram I worked out for your motor and switch.
    Thanks OldMachinist!

    Perfectly simple; once you see how it's done. :-)

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    Worked perfect! Thanks again.

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    Default

    I found this thread via Google search. My lathe also has the Furnas Type R-44 reversing switch, but I'm using a new Grizzly G2905 1HP single phase motor with slightly different internal wiring. I'm trying to wire for 220V operation.

    According to the G2905 motor instructions, only the single start capacitor wire gets moved from L1 to L2 to effect reverse.

    Can someone please verify the connections? Thanks in advance.

    http://cdn0.grizzly.com/manuals/g2905_m.pdf

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    Default Furnace Drum Switch Connections

    According to the G2905 motor instructions, only the single start capacitor wire gets moved from L1 to L2 to effect reverse.
    This is not correct, look at the Grizzly diagram again. To reverse rotation, switch wire 5 & 6 (Blue), the capacitor wiring remains the same.

    furnas-drum-sw-grizzly-mtr.jpg

    SAF Ω

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    SAF- that diagram puts the start windings across 220v, unlike the original. That is not good for the long term health of the cap or start winding.

    allan

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    Kitno455, Good Catch
    You are correct in that the drawing is not technically correct. But it does not put 230V across the start winding of his particular motor. The start winding and start caps will still be internally connected to 120V due to the black and yellow being spliced together (center of the run winding) as shown. I tried to make it quickly, and that's why it appears like 230V going to the start winding as shown. It will work fine if connected as shown. The drawing was from a Sq D switch and a split phase motor without start and run caps, which he has on his particular motor. His switch is a furnace brand but it's function is identical to the one in the drawing. He will be fine if it's connected as shown.

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    I'm sorry, but I don't get it. The diagram from the griz manual has one of the start winding leads going to the star point between the two run coils, and the other going to line. Your drawing has both of the start winding leads going to line.

    allan

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    Default Grizzly G2905 115/230V Motor and a Furnas R44 Type 1 Drum Switch

    Here is a corrected drawing for the Grizzly G2905 1HP 115/230V Motor and a Furnas R44 Type 1 drum switch.
    I couldn't seem to edit the earlier post to point to this revision, so I guess that will have to stand as is.

    Please take note on the drawing of the motor needing thermal protection, and a disconnect switch required. The drawing is shown for the 230V connection.
    furnacetype1drumsw-230v1-grizzlymotor.jpg
    SAF Ω

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    This drawing looks much better. I really dislike the unswitched L1, but this is not a good switch for 220v operation by default. That gives me another idea- Wobbles, can you get a picture or a good description of the inside of the switch? Some of these are actually 3 pole double throw switches, with a series of soldered jumpers and some of the terminal screws removed. If you are lucky enough to have that type, it is possible to convert it back to standard operation. That will allow you to switch off both legs of the line, which is much safer.

    allan


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